CrustyJeep said:175 vs 210 comparison please
The 175 and the 210 as far as wirefeed on black iron should be the same but the 210 can weld aluminum and there is a duty cycle thing but no one cares about a duty cycle.
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The 175 and the 210 as far as wirefeed on black iron should be the same but the 210 can weld aluminum and there is a duty cycle thing but no one cares about a duty cycle.
:redneck: :clappy:moto261 said:you dont weld much do you try welding all day for 8+ hours and see what a duty cycle does
nothing like running off a full reel in a day.
:haha: but in a garage shop like thing or even in a off road shop. anything over 75 % will work fine, even a 60% will work if you know what your doing.:haha:
The only time you really need the the 100% duty cycle is when your doing structural and running full pen's all day or you are running a lot of lead.
BTW: does anybody on here really know what duty cycle "really" means? and how to figure out the time the welder can be used?? It just starts with the % to minute ratio, so I am curious to what will be said after that.:corn: :haha:
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moto261 said:you dont weld much do you try welding all day for 8+ hours and see what a duty cycle does
It was sarcasm as I see people buying the walmart special with like a 10% duty cycle but you just have to laugh at it... and no I don't weld that much any more it is sad :sad:
Dude said::redneck: :clappy:
nothing like running off a full reel in a day.
but in a garage shop like thing or even in a off road shop. anything over 75 % will work fine, even a 60% will work if you know what your doing.:haha:
The only time you really need the the 100% duty cycle is when your doing structural and running full pen's all day or you are running a lot of lead.
BTW: does anybody on here really know what duty cycle "really" means? and how to figure out the time the welder can be used?? It just starts with the % to minute ratio, so I am curious to what will be said after that.:corn: :haha:
base is 10 minutes and the rating is based off of maximum rated output... so at maximum rated output say 300 amps and a 60% duty cycle you could weld for 6 minutes.
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
YesDude said:
:flipoff:I don't ever weld enough in one sitting to exceed the duty cycle of my 175, but the arc becomes really choppy at the upper power range. Welding 1/4", it's pretty unstable, and the wire feed rate starts to get uneven due to the welding circuit drawing too much juice (I guess). The ratings on the 175 are too generous IMO. The sweet spot seems to be at about voltage five, good enough for 1/8".
Just kinda curious if the 210 is rated the same way, or if it's actually stable when turned up. Also wondering how it does on thin stuff, say 16 guage.
CrustyJeep said:Yes
I don't ever weld enough in one sitting to exceed the duty cycle of my 175, but the arc becomes really choppy at the upper power range. Welding 1/4", it's pretty unstable, and the wire feed rate starts to get uneven due to the welding circuit drawing too much juice (I guess). The ratings on the 175 are too generous IMO. The sweet spot seems to be at about voltage five, good enough for 1/8".
Just kinda curious if the 210 is rated the same way, or if it's actually stable when turned up. Also wondering how it does on thin stuff, say 16 guage.
Really I think it is something with your 175 I weld all the time on 7 and higher with out issue... what size wire you running?
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Voltage 10, wire speed 75, .030 wire. Almost hot enought for 1/4"
CrustyJeep said:Yes
I don't ever weld enough in one sitting to exceed the duty cycle of my 175, but the arc becomes really choppy at the upper power range. Welding 1/4", it's pretty unstable, and the wire feed rate starts to get uneven due to the welding circuit drawing too much juice (I guess). The ratings on the 175 are too generous IMO. The sweet spot seems to be at about voltage five, good enough for 1/8".
Just kinda curious if the 210 is rated the same way, or if it's actually stable when turned up. Also wondering how it does on thin stuff, say 16 guage.
I have ran quite a few WABO 1" full penetration test plates with backing stip using flux core dual shield and a miller 251. at those ranges, running around 23.0 volts and 315 IPM on the wirespeed, a miller 210 can be use on quite a few project. the bigger miller wirefeeders with digital readout's work really well on sheetmetal, we had a whole sheetmetal section to complete at lake washington. i have fun with my Miller Syncowave 250 dx Tig, and i think im gonna start saving for a 251 simply cause of production times. Tig'ing everything takes a while.
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well I see a few have the duty cyle thing.
It is also use in the decision of a purchase of the right machine in a fab shop.
If you run an hour meter, which you should, on the welders. If one fails on you, you now have a base to work the #'s off of to see how much of a larger welder you need to replace the one you might of out grown.
That is a smart move for a fab shop to keep the shop from "over" buying a product or a piece of equipment.
As far as welding thin to thick material, as long as you are not running a full on 400 amp machine it can be done. Then you have to know what size of wire to use and what it takes to change over. Sometimes you have to make the decision of whether it is cheaper to change out a welder back and forth or just go down on a machine.
I am in this for the business, the info you get is geared toward that from the beginning. But now with all the back yard shops going. The welding industry has catered to that and that is why I see a lot of money wasted in buying bigger welders from people that don't really know wtf is really behind the welding/fitting industry.
But now with the new EPA reg's coming up you all will be crying. :haha: :haha:
It is also use in the decision of a purchase of the right machine in a fab shop.
If you run an hour meter, which you should, on the welders. If one fails on you, you now have a base to work the #'s off of to see how much of a larger welder you need to replace the one you might of out grown.
That is a smart move for a fab shop to keep the shop from "over" buying a product or a piece of equipment.
As far as welding thin to thick material, as long as you are not running a full on 400 amp machine it can be done. Then you have to know what size of wire to use and what it takes to change over. Sometimes you have to make the decision of whether it is cheaper to change out a welder back and forth or just go down on a machine.
I am in this for the business, the info you get is geared toward that from the beginning. But now with all the back yard shops going. The welding industry has catered to that and that is why I see a lot of money wasted in buying bigger welders from people that don't really know wtf is really behind the welding/fitting industry.
But now with the new EPA reg's coming up you all will be crying. :haha: :haha:
MarcW said:
I don't need any welder's I have 4 100% 300 amp units and one sycn wave 250.
and bla bla bla bla :haha: Like I said A FAB SHOP!!
and I won't do any off road stuff, no "real" money in it.
I like my shop to pull in about $10k a day.
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
OK Dude, you old pro you :flipoff:
What do you think of the the MM175, and by association, any of the same class of welder, from Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ESAB, etc.?
Partly what I'm asking is, if a welder is advertized as being ready to weld 1/4" material, single pass, gas shield, is that really useful info?
What do you think of the the MM175, and by association, any of the same class of welder, from Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ESAB, etc.?
Partly what I'm asking is, if a welder is advertized as being ready to weld 1/4" material, single pass, gas shield, is that really useful info?
CrustyJeep said:
I think that is the same welder Bunk has and I liked it. Miller moved fast when the lower end welder line first came out and the low end line wasn't that great 5 years ago.
Miller seemed to improve a lot of things to save their name which was smart.
The Miller machines are going to be the most beginner freindly. That seems to be their niche right now.
any welding machine can be a good machine, a lot has to do with the drive system and gun, that is were manufactures go cheap from welder to welder.
The other thing that can go is the soliniods for the gas/power start up
I can take a ESAB and make a great welder out of it with a new gun.
And I won't rum nothing but the higher end Tweeko guns, thay are just the best out there for long life and reliability.
a lot of problems with welders are usually the cheap gun they are shipped with unless your spending the big buck on a production welding machine.
Like I said, all the marketing is geared to the business, I can easily weld 1/4" in one pass with a 110, but it doesn't mean everybody can do it. There is a lot more to fabrication than what most of the people have seen on the internet.
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
That's good info, I've considered upgrading my gun as the stocker is a plastic POS, but mine still works and a good one is spendyDude said:
get a Tweeko 15' whip,I can get the number for ya, it will be about $225ish. It will be the best money you have spent in your life.CrustyJeep said:That's good info, I've considered upgrading my gun as the stocker is a plastic POS, but mine still works and a good one is spendy
:clappy:Dude said:get a Tweeko 15' whip,I can get the number for ya, it will be about $225ish. It will be the best money you have spent in your life.
this is the same with most of the miller packages, the syncowave 250 comes with that crappy miller torch, i traded mine at the store for something authentic, an actual CK 200 rigid torch, instead of the cheaper copy. at LWTC most all the guns are replaced by tweeco's. theyre are a couple factory miller 251 guns, and some really old guns that we got donated by todd shipyard.
Dude said:My new torch set up will be nice, optional thumb control with a swivel head.
i've really been wanting a hand amp control lately doing out of position work on my car and not at the welding table, its hard to manipulate a foot control when your lying on the ground underneath a car :redneck: swivel head would be tits, but i have not found too many situations were he hand amp is adventageous.
