What type of Brakes are you guys running?

Juan_Hong_Loe · Jul 23, 2008

Trying to get an idea of what works well on what type of vehicle. For instance... Cole Deasons buggy has Wilwood pedal assy. with dual 7/8 bore master cylinders pushing toyota 4 piston calipers trying to stop rocks at a pinion brake. This set up works okay but to me the pedal is a little too stiff (hard to press). I'm getting to the point of needing to get to my brakes so I need all the help I can get. I have no idea what works well. Thanks!

BamaTJ · Jul 23, 2008

I run a Wilwood dual MC with single petal and 3/4 chevy calipers/rotors all around. Stops ok, but mine is very low in first and it does not like to stop it then

Juan_Hong_Loe · Jul 23, 2008

What is the bore size of the master cylinder?

John Galbreath Jr. · Jul 23, 2008

Purple Jeep has an older model Corvette manual master cylinder and Dana 44 calipers (1979). Single seater is Wildwood master cylinder ttota (front) and Dana 44 (rear). Corvette cheap and works well.

74_Chevota · Jul 23, 2008

If i was going to do it over again i would steer away from manual brakes. Mine work, but power brakes would be the shiz-nit. :drinkers:

kid rok · Jul 23, 2008

I went with CNC, they are more better for what we are doing. They have a bigger bore and better pedal ratio. Wildwood brakes are set up more toward racing, circle trac etc. Power brakes are way more better as far as pedal mashing goes, but I wanted brakes all the time. Although I have never really been in a bad situation without brakes I have had a close call or two. One was no brakes going down the the hill beside cable hill. Hard gully hit.

Beyer · Jul 23, 2008

Matt O. said:
I run a Wilwood dual MC with single petal and 3/4 chevy calipers/rotors all around. Stops ok, but mine is very low in first and it does not like to stop it then

X2
except I have 1-ton front brakes and a 7/8" MC (I think) for the front brakes. I called TC for their recommendation.

They work pretty good, but still hard to stop in 5.4:1. They are better than the CJ booster/corvette MC I had in the CJ.

John Galbreath Jr. · Jul 23, 2008

74_Chevota said:
If i was going to do it over again i would steer away from manual brakes. Mine work, but power brakes would be the shiz-nit.

I prefer full braking power when the engine is not running. I'll stay manual.

kid rok · Jul 23, 2008

I prefer full braking power when the engine is not running. I'll stay manual.

no bout a dought it.
I think CNC has an 8.1 pedal ratio and a 1 inch + bore size

Marty · Jul 23, 2008

Vanco hydro-boost and dont look back :flipoff1:

74_Chevota · Jul 24, 2008

I am running the CNC also. Not bad for the price. Im not hatin' on mechanical but when im cruising on the street in the buggy at 50-60mph it would be nice to have some power brakes. Then again, that isnt what i built the buggy for.

P · Jul 24, 2008

I have dual MC's from Wilwood with 1' bore's I love it with the big GM calipers One pedal for fronts and one pedal for rears.

Im not super geared low like some here but 4.1 in the Tcase and mine has no problems holding it in gear whatsoever even if I just hold the front pedal only. ( auto and higher stall probably helps that situation as well though )

Juan_Hong_Loe · Jul 24, 2008

Aight, just got off the phone with wilwood. I gave him the specs for Cole Shirleys buggy hes gonna have built. I had to give him the piston size of the calipers and he did some calculations and came up with... Running a 7:1 pedal he needs a 1" bore Master Cylinder. He said with the size of the pistons on the calipers (Chevy 3/4 ton calipers) he is using it having to move a lot of volume. So, the 1" bore would give a good pedal feel and still be adequate pedal pressure. i guess we'll find out as soon as he can make up his mind who's gonna build his buggy! :flipoff1:

So P's pedal setup is ideal.^

As for me... Brembo 4 piston calipers, wilwood 7:1 pedal ratio, buggy weighing around 4k I can go with the 7/8 bore Master cylinders. Less volume cause the pistons are smaller. He is supposed to be sending me a chart of pedal ratio to pedal pressure to volume something or another and I will post that up later. Maybe it can help us make sense of all this. :dunno:

Oh yeah both of us are using two seperate pedals, one for front brakes and one for rear brakes (fyi).

under_psi · Jul 24, 2008

i run dual pedals, one fron one rear...duh...with 7:1 ratio...

2 mastercylinders, 3/4 bore....

brakes are much better than when i frst put them together....bleed bleed bleed...

-3 SS flex line all the way through....

i could probably use a 7/8 MC in the rear, as the brakes are a little light, but i am not worried about them now with the new full reverse manual shift, compression braking valve body i got from art car.....

draggbody · Jul 24, 2008

i dont get what is w/ all the high end bling stuff... granted, i own my fair share of bling, but whats wrong w/ good ol OEM parts from the part store... i mean EVERY single brake part i own can be bought at autozone, and they work PHENOMINAL....

3/4 ton rotors/calipers front and rear, caprice rubber brake lines at all four corners, junkyard hydro boost, K.I.S.S.

i probably have less than $300 in my entire system, M/C, lines, calipers, pads, rotors....

InDaShop · Jul 24, 2008

3/4 ton disc, calipers
Speedway Nylon Brake lines
Wilwood single
Wilwood cutting brake

under_psi · Jul 25, 2008

draggbody said:
i dont get what is w/ all the high end bling stuff... granted, i own my fair share of bling, but whats wrong w/ good ol OEM parts from the part store... i mean EVERY single brake part i own can be bought at autozone, and they work PHENOMINAL....

3/4 ton rotors/calipers front and rear, caprice rubber brake lines at all four corners, junkyard hydro boost, K.I.S.S.

i probably have less than $300 in my entire system, M/C, lines, calipers, pads, rotors....

$300 for that...

****, i barely have $100 more than that in mine.....and the $100 extra is worth the bling to me.....

kid rok · Jul 25, 2008

and the $100 extra is worth the bling to me.....

says the man with sparkly flames.

i dont get what is w/ all the high end bling stuff... granted, i own my fair share of bling, but whats wrong w/ good ol OEM parts from the part store... i mean EVERY single brake part i own can be bought at autozone, and they work PHENOMINAL....

It's more of an ease of installation for me. All I have to do is put it together when it arrives. I like roaming around the junkyard gathering parts , but I've been so busy at work I have'nt found the time to do it. I just have got my radiator fan out of the junkyard. It's not the one I want I hope it works. If not I'll be ordering a new one that does. What I'm saying is, if I new what part off what year car would work with what brake caliper line hose and so on I would be getting it at a junkyard also. I don't ,so it's alot easier to just order what does work.
Don't be bringing your drama over here Jimmy :flipoff1:

P · Jul 25, 2008

I got 150 bucks in bling... the MC's from wilwood... OK scratch that I did have to buy 1ea brake pedal ( the other was given to me by Turbo Joe he didnt use it..

Everything else is Junkyard stuff, I use el camino rubber lines at the caliper... they be short and sweet and always in stock

I have a 2 pedal setup so the MC's were pretty much neccasary... ya bling hater ! :flipoff1:

Juan_Hong_Loe · Jul 25, 2008

draggbody said:
i dont get what is w/ all the high end bling stuff... granted, i own my fair share of bling, but whats wrong w/ good ol OEM parts from the part store... i mean EVERY single brake part i own can be bought at autozone, and they work PHENOMINAL....

3/4 ton rotors/calipers front and rear, caprice rubber brake lines at all four corners, junkyard hydro boost, K.I.S.S.

i probably have less than $300 in my entire system, M/C, lines, calipers, pads, rotors....

Can you say FREEBIES!!!! Well the 4 piston brake calipers are any way. ;D