Where can I buy 3.125" 4130 tubing?

[Turtle Bite]

Ive checked online metals and a few other sources, but they want me to buy a 20ft stick ($$$). I am looking for 3.125" O.D. .188 or .250 wall tubing to retube a Dana 60. Any ideas?

 

[darius]

.188 wall???? are you serious? .250 wall is the lightest we use. .375 is pretty standard. As far as I know we have both in stock, just on the other side of the mountains from you..... Arlington.

 

[Binder]

Why 4130? .......188 wall for a axle????

 

[Bunk1]

My idea is stick with std 1/2 wall dom. Randys sells it in 3 foot sections.

 

[Turtle Bite]

Heat treated .250" wall 4130 is stronger than .500" wall DOM, and much lighter. I might as well use the stronger material if I am retubing.

Darius, you are talking 4130 not DOM right?

 

[Binder]

Heat treated .250" wall 4130 is stronger than .500" wall DOM, and much lighter. I might as well use the stronger material if I am retubing.

You going to weld it to steel knuckles and cast center then get the assembly heat treated? With dissimillar metals I'm not sure this can be done. 4130 is not stronger unless it's heat treated..

 

[Bunk1]

You going to weld it to steel knuckles and cast center then get the assembly heat treated? With dissimillar metals I'm not sure this can be done. 4130 is not stronger unless it's heat treated..

I know s&n has done 1/4 wall chromo before. Did they just leave the chromo normalized or treat it before assembly? Did they tig it or say fawk it since it isnt similar metals?

Im curious if they still build axles with chromo tubes.

 

[Binder]

I know s&n has done 1/4 wall chromo before. Did they just leave the chromo normalized or treat it before assembly?

I don't know. All I'm pointing out is that there is no advantage to using chromo if it isn't heat treated. Non heat treated .250 wall chromo tube is no stronger than
.250 wall DOM.

 

[darius]

I'm not sure a heat treated axle tube is where it's at.

 

[Turtle Bite]

Normalized 4130 is stronger than DOM but your right not enough to be worth it. I am going to machine the tubes, have them heat treated, then press and weld them into the center section. As for welding, I am planning on welding the end forging on the knuckle side, not at the factory spot. The spot weld on the center section is such a small area that I am not worried about ruing the heat treat just for those tiny spots.

I do need to think about the welding more. I was planning on welding on a full hydro mount/ truss. I need to decide what kind of sheet to use for that. I was thinking 4130, but I want to look at 1040 or 1050 (if I can even get it). It may turn out that regular 1018 is the way to go, I just haven't researched it enough yet.

If you are wondering why I am even bothering spending all this time and effort to save 20 pounds, it is for a school project. I am modeling the axle housing in SolidWorks, loading it ect.

Thanks for the help guys, your keeping me thinking:beer:

 

[Turtle Bite]

I'm not sure a heat treated axle tube is where it's at.

Why do you say that? Because of welding or? Just trying to understand your thinking behind it.

 

[Binder]

What kind of suspension would be connected to this axle? Gona weld link tabs or leaf spring perches before heat treating?

 

[Turtle Bite]

Leaf springs. Another good point I didn't think of. I will be using the cast in perch on the passenger side but the spring pad on the driver side. Probably will weld the perch on and then have the tube heat treated, but I will think about it some more. I need to get some more measurements and see if the tabs could put on the end forgings, I don't know if the tire will rub.

If the tubes can be heat treated with the shock tabs and the spring pad already welded on the tube, that would be ideal. In that case I would probably make the pad and shock mounts out of 4130 also.

I have a big enough oven to treat the short side at school, but the long side wont fit. I will have to call around and find out if there are any geometry conditions and how that affects the cost.

 

[Bunk1]

Ya gonna tig chromo tabs and spring mounts on the tube? Or say fawk it and mig it, anneal it and then heat treat it?? Im not super hip to massive fab on chromo so im asking. I do think it will cost a ton to di it with chromo tubes though.

 

[Turtle Bite]

Ya gonna tig chromo tabs and spring mounts on the tube? Or say fawk it and mig it, anneal it and then heat treat it?? Im not super hip to massive fab on chromo so im asking. I do think it will cost a ton to di it with chromo tubes though.

I am bribing friends to tig as much as possible but if I run out of time some parts will have to be done with my mig. Shouldn't have to anneal for the shock tabs or the spring pad as the tube comes normalized, but I will be welding the truss/ hydro mount to the axle tubes and there will be some strength reductions at the welds. I need to figure out exactly how much.

Edit: I am going to need about 40" of tube, and I have no idea what the tube or heat treating will cost, but I was planning on $200-300. Probably double DOM but that doesn't bother me.

 

[Binder]

Probably about $100 for heat treat.

 

[t1h5ta3]

so... trying to save 20lbs of un sprung weight, but running leafs????? wtf?? will they be composite springs ?

im thinking for the cost/complexity/gains you wold be moey/time/effort ahead to save the 20lbs by useing a lighter wheel/tire combo, and the gain the benifit of lower rotating mass stressing compnents..

 

[MarcW]

not that your as hardcore, but it didnt work for camo IIRC. and everyone wants to be him

 

[CHOP SHOP]

just use normal ****. your making for some dumb problems.

if 20 pounds is all, post up a pic of your self, bet your packin 20 around the middle that would be alot cheaper easier to lose than putting your axle tubes on a diet?

 

[t1h5ta3]

oh, wait! loose een more!!! d30 swap!