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Where can I buy 3.125" 4130 tubing?

or if 20lbs is all your worried about ... theres more than a 20 lb diferance between a spool and a detroit..
 
I am bribing friends to tig as much as possible but if I run out of time some parts will have to be done with my mig. Shouldn't have to anneal for the shock tabs or the spring pad as the tube comes normalized, but I will be welding the truss/ hydro mount to the axle tubes and there will be some strength reductions at the welds. I need to figure out exactly how much.


Have fun figuring that out without an MTS machine to do some pull samples...


The only time/places we consider heat treating on our cars are: on the CV's, shafts in the case and on our arms (aluminum) the rest of doesn't really matter as long as you don't just pour on the heat.
 
Ive heard of more than 1 axle with bent 1/4 wall chromo tubes. Actually, Ive owned 2 of em.
 
Geez, I ask where I can buy some tubing and everybody acts like I am trying to make my toyota fly!

not that your as hardcore, but it didnt work for camo IIRC. and everyone wants to be him :D

I believe he came up short jumping a concrete irrigation ditch around 80mph and broke his back, I dont think anything would have held up to that.

just use normal ****. your making for some dumb problems.

if 20 pounds is all, post up a pic of your self, bet your packin 20 around the middle that would be alot cheaper easier to lose than putting your axle tubes on a diet?:rolleyes:

Actually, if I tried to lose 20 pounds that way, I would probably die. You can already see my ribs:flipoff:

Ive heard of more than 1 axle with bent 1/4 wall chromo tubes. Actually, Ive owned 2 of em.

Were the tubes heat treated?

Here is why I would like to try the 4130:

DOM
55,000 PSI yield strength (point where the tube is permanently bent)

4130 (Normalized)
63,000 PSI yield strength

4130 (Water Quenched, Tempered)
100,000 PSI yield strength

You can see there is a small difference between regular DOM and 4130, but the treated 4130 is nearly 2x the strength of DOM. I know that it is not the easiest way to save weight and not the fastest /cheapest way to slam a housing together, that is not the point. The point is to put together a stronger housing, just by dropping some tube off to be heat treated.
 
Have fun figuring that out without an MTS machine to do some pull samples...


The only time/places we consider heat treating on our cars are: on the CV's, shafts in the case and on our arms (aluminum) the rest of doesn't really matter as long as you don't just pour on the heat.

Now that you mention it, I am working on a way to test the stock housing vs. the finished one, using a hydraulic cylinder with a pressure gauge, a big I beam, and some strain gauges. The housing is too long to fit in our tester, or I would do it:redneck:
 
Now that you mention it, I am working on a way to test the stock housing vs. the finished one, using a hydraulic cylinder with a pressure gauge, a big I beam, and some strain gauges. The housing is too long to fit in our tester, or I would do it:redneck:

If you do some tests let me know that could be interesting... Where do you work that you have an MTS?

One other thing that i don't think has been brought up, but how is welding 4130 to cast? That might make for some intesting weld zones...
 
Were the tubes heat treated?

Here is why I would like to try the 4130:

DOM
55,000 PSI yield strength (point where the tube is permanently bent)

4130 (Normalized)
63,000 PSI yield strength

4130 (Water Quenched, Tempered)
100,000 PSI yield strength
From what i've found, your going to have to special order the 4130 water quenched and tempered, as 90% of it comes normalized...
 
If you do some tests let me know that could be interesting... Where do you work that you have an MTS?

I go to Central Washington University, this is my "Senior Project". I will be taking video of the testing mostly because I dont want to be anywhere near the jig if it shoots through the ceiling.

One other thing that i don't think has been brought up, but how is welding 4130 to cast? That might make for some intesting weld zones...

I have been researching the center section material alot recently and it is ductile iron. I was recently given a book that has lots of data on welding, but the short answer is the plug welds are not enough to worry about.

I haven't decided if I am going to weld the truss to the center section, but it is possible. I would need to keep the center section at around 800F to get a 45KSI yield strength. I was thinking of using a propane torch, like a weed burner, but it would still be a bitch.
 
From what i've found, your going to have to special order the 4130 water quenched and tempered, as 90% of it comes normalized...

I would be picking up some normalized tubing, doing the boring and turning, then getting the tube treated after. Then I could press everything together. It would be much harder to machine after it is hardened (at least with the equipment I have access to).
 
So once the tubes are machined, Treated and pressed/welded to the chunk and c's...you will have to weld to the tube..wont that create a haz or will it be no issue?
 
So once the tubes are machined, Treated and pressed/welded to the chunk and c's...you will have to weld to the tube..wont that create a haz or will it be no issue?

Yes it will, I just need to figure out how wide/ deep the haz will be. I doubt it will be a big problem, as tig welding .09" 4130 sheet shouldn't create much heat. I am banking on the truss itself adding alot of strength, even though the 4130 will not be as strong at the welds.
 
Maybee you could make some thick threaded tabs and weld them to the tube before heat treat...then make the truss bolt to them??

I'll get ya a quote on the tube monday if you dont have it figured out by then.
 

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