would you replace this piston?

pholmann · Feb 1, 2017

This is true also.

redneckengineered · Feb 1, 2017

al1tonyota said:
It sucks more when you go for the best/nicest things and it still doesn't hold up.

All up to the owner but the piston hit atleast once metal contact, maybe it didn't hurt the bearing at all but changing out a $5 part is cheap to ease my mind.

Oh, I was hotter than satan's taint. Like I said, I'm not a motor guy so I pay top dollar so I don't have to worry about **** like this. I actually feel a little bit better after finding what I think was a defect in the rocker. I can at least accept the **** happens scenario. We'll see what Mast says about it. Thanks for the advice on the bearing, I'll mention it to Mast and see what they say. I pretty much go with their advice, since they built the engine.

TBItoy · Feb 1, 2017

redneckengineered said:
Oh, I was hotter than satan's taint. Like I said, I'm not a motor guy so I pay top dollar so I don't have to worry about **** like this. I actually feel a little bit better after finding what I think was a defect in the rocker. I can at least accept the **** happens scenario. We'll see what Mast says about it. Thanks for the advice on the bearing, I'll mention it to Mast and see what they say. I pretty much go with their advice, since they built the engine.

Defective rocker = replace all the rockers

At least IMO.

Probably with some billet ones instead of cast.

redneckengineered · Feb 1, 2017

TBItoy said:
Defective rocker = replace all the rockers

At least IMO.

Probably with some billet ones instead of cast.

I'm guessing that's why they asked for both heads back. I came unglued when I first found out they were using stock rockers in these boyhowdee heads. After some research though I found out the stock rockers are what is typically used unless you're twisting the motor to insanely high RPMs or you need an adjustable rocker for something like a solid roller cam. Mast said they use the stock rocker with trunion upgrade in 90% of their handbuilt motors. That being said, we may upgrade. I don't know, just going to wait to hear from them now.

For anyone wondering, my rev limit is set at 7k, which was set by Mast.

grcthird · Feb 1, 2017

I've run way worse pistons than that. Although most were in Audi engines with turbos where a timing belt broke, but never had an issue with any. I think you got lucky to only have such little damage.

mna0121 · Feb 1, 2017

Haven't seen it mentioned but I will throw this in. Before you begin de-burring the piston wipe some clean grease between it, the piston, and its bore, don't pack it in just build a barrier around the bore. Keep the piston at TDC where you have it in the pic. also put something, tape and plastic, over the rest of the engine to keep the junk out of the rest of it. Once done de-burring use your shop vac. to suck up the grease and piston dust, start the piston down its bore about 1/4 inch or lees and wipe with a lint free rag damp with brake part cleaner, move it down a little more and repeat with another damp rag. Over Kill!!!! you can never be too clean when assembling an engine. Once done spray WD-40 on the bare surfaces of the block including the bores but don't soak the bores, wipe them with those lent free rags. Bag it up till you are ready to put it back together. RTR

muddinmetal · Feb 2, 2017

mna0121 said:
Haven't seen it mentioned but I will throw this in. Before you begin de-burring the piston wipe some clean grease between it, the piston, and its bore, don't pack it in just build a barrier around the bore. Keep the piston at TDC where you have it in the pic. also put something, tape and plastic, over the rest of the engine to keep the junk out of the rest of it. Once done de-burring use your shop vac. to suck up the grease and piston dust, start the piston down its bore about 1/4 inch or lees and wipe with a lint free rag damp with brake part cleaner, move it down a little more and repeat with another damp rag. Over Kill!!!! you can never be too clean when assembling an engine. Once done spray WD-40 on the bare surfaces of the block including the bores but don't soak the bores, wipe them with those lent free rags. Bag it up till you are ready to put it back together. RTR

I am with this guy ^^^

I once saw a guy dig a 22r short block out of the mud in his backyard, spray it off with a waterhose, change the oil, and run if for 5 years... If I did that it wouldn't last 5 seconds :****:

redneckengineered · Feb 2, 2017

mna0121 said:
Haven't seen it mentioned but I will throw this in. Before you begin de-burring the piston wipe some clean grease between it, the piston, and its bore, don't pack it in just build a barrier around the bore. Keep the piston at TDC where you have it in the pic. also put something, tape and plastic, over the rest of the engine to keep the junk out of the rest of it. Once done de-burring use your shop vac. to suck up the grease and piston dust, start the piston down its bore about 1/4 inch or lees and wipe with a lint free rag damp with brake part cleaner, move it down a little more and repeat with another damp rag. Over Kill!!!! you can never be too clean when assembling an engine. Once done spray WD-40 on the bare surfaces of the block including the bores but don't soak the bores, wipe them with those lent free rags. Bag it up till you are ready to put it back together. RTR

Thank you. I followed your build and you probably know engines as good or better than anyone on this board.