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Yota Cage Idea...Feedback

pholmann said:
I'm gonna try to plan a trip to adventure in May. I have one planned in March for grey rock and one in April at windrock. Which windrock is no big deal other than we are gonna stay the weekend this time. I'm about 30 miles from windrock.

You will enjoy AOP if you like to go big... I'm mostly a spectator haha

I have never been to gray rock it's on my bucket list...

Been to Windrock (CoalCreek) a lot of rzrs...
 
You just about need a local person to go with you. There's some awesome stuff at windrock that the rzrs can't touch so it's peaceful. A lot of hard stuff. Tony Bolton is a good guide. He's down right now with a busted hand but Ifor you want to come over this way holler at me. I'll show you around.
 
pholmann said:
You just about need a local person to go with you. There's some awesome stuff at windrock that the rzrs can't touch so it's peaceful. A lot of hard stuff. Tony Bolton is a good guide. He's down right now with a busted hand but Ifor you want to come over this way holler at me. I'll show you around.


Hey man I appreciate the offer and will take you up on that. Like to meet up with some people and ride new places. Thanks man!

The same goes for you as well... Once it gets warm we live in the woods so I will give you a shout.
 
On bending tube, add a couple inches to the front and back. When you're done, you should have a thousand 2-4" drops in the can. Take your time notching. It's easy to cut/grind more out, but it looks like **** to add more into it. If you have a 3' drop, bend a 90* into it. Measure how far from the center of the tube to the end of the bend. This will help you land your tube where you want. Mine is 4 1/2", so I would subtract 4 1/2" from my measurement from the end of a bend to where the die starts the bend. Also subtract 5/8"-3/4" for the edge of the die to where the bend actually starts.

Hope this helps, love to come show you, but miles and all... :dunno:
 
I got the software...the simulation....notching templates... so the actual bending of the part is no big issue (given I can draw in 3D and have exact measurements on my bends).

The problem I have is simply trying to get the measurements. I want to be so exact but in order to do correctly you need to measure basically in triangles to locate all your points. (see below for the example I am referring to).

Sometimes you just have to eye ball the tape measure and pray you nail it... This is by far the hardest thing to do and make look good (I cant stand crappy bends and not matching body lines and angle)...

 
Re: Re: Yota Cage Idea...Feedback

The measuring is not too bad once you layout how you want it.
Holler if you need help
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I have 2 pieces of 1/2" angle iron bolted together with washers and lock nut, so I can make angles and it will hold position.

Makes it easy to check body lines and copy angles that you want to hit.

I also use a digital angle finder to compare angles such as the angle of the roof vs the A pillar vs fender to calc bend angles.

Worst case you mess up a bend and end up using it somewhere else as a filler.

Don't over think it and it's a lot more fun.

Oh, and don't try to make a single tube with over 2 bends. Much harder to keep accurate.

In fact, I try to stick to one bend per tube... Makes fabbing much quicker and easier to me.

Of course I only average one cage a year, so my tubing skills are amateur at best...

Here's the one I just finished

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Rokcrler,

See my questions below in the picture. Can you send me the bendtech file for that piece? I would like to benchmark it against what I come up with...this concept (wrap around the back) is the same situation I am facing with mine. Having that piece to load and take measurements against mine would help "Big Time"..

 
MtnGoat said:
Hey man I appreciate the offer and will take you up on that. Like to meet up with some people and ride new places. Thanks man!

The same goes for you as well... Once it gets warm we live in the woods so I will give you a shout.

Sounds good. What kind of bender do you have? I'm using a jd2 model 3. I have the amount used written on my dies. Example a 45 degree bend with mine takes 4.5" of tubing and a 90 degree bend takes 9". So I know that each 10 degrees of bend takes an inch. Just get to know where your bender starts and stops for each bend. Like Mike said. Leave a couple inches waste. And like wont work said. Measure measure measure and measure more. Can't wait to see it finished.
 
pholmann said:
Sounds good. What kind of bender do you have? I'm using a jd2 model 3. I have the amount used written on my dies. Example a 45 degree bend with mine takes 4.5" of tubing and a 90 degree bend takes 9". So I know that each 10 degrees of bend takes an inch. Just get to know where your bender starts and stops for each bend. Like Mike said. Leave a couple inches waste. And like wont work said. Measure measure measure and measure more. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks man for the tips! I hope it turns out good!
 
Your drawing looks good. Not a yota but I attached a couple pics of my buddy's s10 I am building a section at a time between rides so he doesn't have downtime. Figured another exo to look at might help. Sill have a good bit left on his. Some helpful comments posted already for you.

As for the front glass comments, it adds significant strength. I built his extremely tight to the body for looks and am sure the front glass will go before to many rolls. However I plan to cut it off and install oval mounting plates or removable tube splices when it does. Would have to do it anyway to install so might as well wait.

I can tell you if you wheel very hard the sides will get beat like a tin can without tube. I second protecting the jam. Would at least do something like chuck suggested.

As said make sure the hood opens. Place to watch is the one over the firewall. I made his hood open over the bar barely. Had to roll and bend it though.

I have bend tech pro but prefer the ol floor tech method with homemade angle templates for his. I obsess a little over no splicing. Only time it is painfully difficult is when multiple bends are not in 90 degree plains. Bend tech would make those easier.

Had some time to kill so figured I would post in case something helps. Sure it will be nice since you seem to be going about it right. thumb.gif

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The-Boss said:
Your drawing looks good. Not a yota but I attached a couple pics of my buddy's s10 I am building a section at a time between rides so he doesn't have downtime. Figured another exo to look at might help. Sill have a good bit left on his. Some helpful comments posted already for you.

As for the front glass comments, it adds significant strength. I built his extremely tight to the body for looks and am sure the front glass will go before to many rolls. However I plan to cut it off and install oval mounting plates or removable tube splices when it does. Would have to do it anyway to install so might as well wait.

I can tell you if you wheel very hard the sides will get beat like a tin can without tube. I second protecting the jam. Would at least do something like chuck suggested.

As said make sure the hood opens. Place to watch is the one over the firewall. I made his hood open over the bar barely. Had to roll and bend it though.

I have bend tech pro but prefer the ol floor tech method with homemade angle templates for his. I obsess a little over no splicing. Only time it is painfully difficult is when multiple bends are not in 90 degree plains. Bend tech would make those easier.

Had some time to kill so figured I would post in case something helps. Sure it will be nice since you seem to be going about it right. thumb.gif
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Man I appreciate the pictures and the comments. Going to be honest that is one SICK EXO cage...it is weird you posted that picture because last night I was thinking (have I ever seen one done with basically double doors)..am bam this afternoon you posted up this picture.

S10 cabs imo are the best looking cabs with the Exo's... I love the Yotas but its hard to beat an Ol S10 CAB look...

I hope I get good enough one day just to go old school and start bending...hahaha.. I have build a couple bumpers, sliders, ranger roll cage...but my experience is limited and my nerves get the best of me in regards to tube bending...sometimes I threaten to just throw all the **** out in the yard when I mess a bend up hahaha...

Thanks again for the post. I hope to post pictures along the way of the progress... I want this thread to be a good one and something people can use and see what hardline is about. :)
 
Thanks for the complements. It's a work in progress.

Like everything else it takes more to work around functional doors. Looked everywhere for structural doors and nobody builds them I found. I even made a thread asking. I built these with studs behind those two overlapping pieces that insert into the tube when closed. Will resist all but a force from the cab out which shouldn't really happen. The The latch is just a sprung pin from McMaster and hinges I made from round stock. I recommend a big unibit for drilling through the tube if you use the McMaster pin latch. My buddy can take his stock doors off in the summer but they are nice with the heater on cold or wet rides. Opening and closing both is a non issue.

When I meat ol school floortech I just meant shop floor tracing. ;D
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/bendin_tube/index.html

One thing is for sure I don't work fast. I envy those that fly through high end work.

I look forward to the build.
 
Well boys...got a tad done this evening. Got the first a-pillar bent and in place... I wanted to keep it low and tight on the side like Rokcrler did his...think it will be ok.

Picture is terrible but had to finish up and come inside.. in the words of Johnny Cash one piece at a time...(minus my first piece I screwed up yay!)



Little better picture..
 
5BrothersFabrication said:

The lightbar is going to be tied into the cage....Ever since I done it I thought it looked so out of place....just imagine that re-done in the picture haha

Thanks for the comments...I hope to get more done this weekend (I hope).
 
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