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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Zuk Based JHF/Goatbuilt Buggy
- Thread starter sleepsontoilet
- Start date
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
Catch cans plumbed, radiator hoop tied in, hood mounted, skins painted, almost ready for a shakedown run. Seems a little sluggish off the line compared to my L67 car, but not sure if it's tune related or just needs a some upgrades.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Forbanger
Well-Known Member
Is there enough room in the rear for the small bench seat?
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
I believe there is about 32" in between shock hoops. If you mounted the shocks differently and didn't have rear steer definitely. Look at Mike Johnson's rig (Hurleygo3 on PBB).Forbanger said:
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
ranger11 said:
My Tracks
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
Shakedown run was a disaster. Ripped a new 3/4 x 3/4 rear steer heim in half, transmission lost reverse and the fan rubbed a hole in the radiator. Got it torn apart, did a lot of grinding on the steering arms and almost had a new trans, but all 3 at the junkyard were the early 4l80 with the wrong tailshaft.
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
Re:
That sucks.
The 7/8x3/4 heims have body hoops about 2x thicker than 3/4x3/4.
Details on how the fan was mounted/what caused the rubbing?
That sucks.
The 7/8x3/4 heims have body hoops about 2x thicker than 3/4x3/4.
Details on how the fan was mounted/what caused the rubbing?
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
Re:
It looks like when I sucked down the front the lower radiator mount moved enough it pushed it all together. Just going to have to make a bigger space in between them and beef the lower mount up.
TBItoy said:
It looks like when I sucked down the front the lower radiator mount moved enough it pushed it all together. Just going to have to make a bigger space in between them and beef the lower mount up.
smbroady82
Well-Known Member
any idea what caused the joint to fail? just curious
skipnrocks
Well-Known Member
smbroady82 said:
x2 never seen that
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
smbroady82 said:
It looks like a casting flaw, but I'm not sure maybe just undersized. I only had about 2 hours of wheeling on it and it was on flat ground not in any way bound when it pulled apart. I was lucky a buddy saw it go and stopped me in time to keep from doing anymore damage, and another buddy had a spare so it was an easy trail repair. Only pic I have proving I actually wheeled, and trying to learn something...
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
I've had a few questions about my fix, so I figured I'd post a couple pics to help someone. Having just ripped a 3/4 heim in half I figured I would share what I learned this weekend. Trail Gear 3.5 9" housing using 05+ Superduty Cs and outers with stock Spicer 1550 shafts and a PSC 2.5x10 ram.
I ground the back side stops flush with the knuckle until I just had daylight between the caliper and shock. If you inboard the shock more, you could probably grind some more.
I ground about 1/2" off the lower steering arm of the JHF kit until there was barely daylight at full lock.
I ground the back side stops flush with the knuckle until I just had daylight between the caliper and shock. If you inboard the shock more, you could probably grind some more.
I ground about 1/2" off the lower steering arm of the JHF kit until there was barely daylight at full lock.
sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
LightBnDr said:
The fluid is brown and stinks to high heaven, some of the sprags show a lot of heat, and the clutches show a lot of wear. I've been doing a ton of reading and it seems very common to lose reverse. One opinion is the reverse solenoid piston is too short not allowing enough pressure causing it to slip. Smoked clutches allowing them to weld themselves together is another.
I also found one I'm leaning towards but can't prove because it's apart. The plug was pushed in enough it was leaking fluid. From what I'm reading if fluid gets in the plug (and it was) it will cause it to short out and default to only forward gears, even in neutral. From what I'm reading, I could have cleaned the plug and it might have fixed the reverse. Regardless with the smelly fluid, it definitely won't hurt to rebuild it. Or now that I know how easy they are to pull apart, I could swap tailshafts into another donor if this one has too much ruined.
I'm trying to study all I can and learn how to work on them. Always been overwhelmed by it, just like doing gears. But once you grasp the basic concept of it, people say it's not that bad with the right tools. Just keep it clean and check your tolerances.
Fluid in plug won't cause a no reverse for sure. Reverse is 100% hydraulic. No solenoids are affected. I used to see fluid them all the time. Plus remember that on the other side of that connector are bare pigtail connections at each solenoid that are fully submerged all the time.
That low servo, the band and direct clutches are on in reverse.
You should see your issue in there unless you have you modified the VB a bunch.
If you got fried direct clutches, look at the piston in the drum. The aluminum pistons crack when you get silly with VB upgrades.
I was just curious man. Rig looks great!! I guess you're not up for 24hrs of Burris??
That low servo, the band and direct clutches are on in reverse.
You should see your issue in there unless you have you modified the VB a bunch.
If you got fried direct clutches, look at the piston in the drum. The aluminum pistons crack when you get silly with VB upgrades.
I was just curious man. Rig looks great!! I guess you're not up for 24hrs of Burris??
Forbanger
Well-Known Member
Rig turned out great. Good luck working out all the bugs. Any idea on total weight?
