Which Link Material?

InDaShop · Aug 8, 2008

I priced Branik, before Kelly found the source hook up he has now. They were a bit higher. We didn't machine the wrench fitting on the links.
I haven't figured out that need. What do you need it for? I only use one wrench on the thread locking nut. I dont think I'm missing anything, and my links are staying tighter than a virgin choir boy in a Catholic church.
The links already on my buggy were also not keyed for a wrench. But they do have this cool two line groove on the end that is left hand thread so you always know which end is the lefty end. Very cool! I think Kelly needs to incorporate that, once he saw them on mine, he was like "DAMN, I should do that"

PM'ing you the Branik qoute I got in Dec.

Cole · Aug 9, 2008

I will be going with 2" 7075 with 1 1/4 heims all the way around

InDaShop · Aug 9, 2008

Cole said:
I will be going with 2" 7075 with 1 1/4 heims all the way around

BEAT ON IT!!!

wngrog · Aug 9, 2008

Cole said:
I will be going with 2" 7075 with 1 1/4 heims all the way around

That is what I have on the lowers with 3/4's on the uppers.

One thing that I find interesting from TC is that all of my heims are Right Hand. All of them. Never asked why.....

Travis · Aug 9, 2008

wngrog said:
One thing that I find interesting from TC is that all of my heims are Right Hand. All of them. Never asked why.....

Easy way to keep them from loosening up.

BamaTJ · Aug 9, 2008

wngrog said:
One thing that I find interesting from TC is that all of my heims are Right Hand. All of them. Never asked why.....

My rig is setup the same way, all are RH threads. When Dan redid the uppers he changed them to LH at one end.

blacksheep10 · Aug 9, 2008

wngrog said:
That is what I have on the lowers with 3/4's on the uppers.

One thing that I find interesting from TC is that all of my heims are Right Hand. All of them. Never asked why.....

its only nice to have rh/lh during testing and setup. after that its a hindrance. with TC knowing the formula, no reason to have something easy to tune. My link grow in length when I beat teh fawk out of the rig. I jam the nuts as tight as I can, have even used a 3' wrench on them (on the 1.25's) and when I smash down on a link like on primos, you can bet that withing a couple more hours of riding, I will be readjusting pinion angle and jamming back. if you have all RH its only 1 spare and if your link starts to walk, it doenst change length, it just walks to the end of one rod end and to the body of th eother. if there isn't much thread showing, **** it, you'll never have it come out.

Marty · Aug 9, 2008

Anyone tack the jam nuts? Obviously not with AL links but with regualr DOM ones.

wngrog · Aug 9, 2008

blacksheep10 said:
its only nice to have rh/lh during testing and setup. after that its a hindrance. with TC knowing the formula, no reason to have something easy to tune. My link grow in length when I beat teh fawk out of the rig. I jam the nuts as tight as I can, have even used a 3' wrench on them (on the 1.25's) and when I smash down on a link like on primos, you can bet that withing a couple more hours of riding, I will be readjusting pinion angle and jamming back. if you have all RH its only 1 spare and if your link starts to walk, it doenst change length, it just walks to the end of one rod end and to the body of th eother. if there isn't much thread showing, **** it, you'll never have it come out.

Figured that was the case. I have no body showing on any of my heims. Material/Jam/Head....makes it easy for sure.

bigsilly · Aug 10, 2008

wngrog said:
That is what I have on the lowers with 3/4's on the uppers.

One thing that I find interesting from TC is that all of my heims are Right Hand. All of them. Never asked why.....

I talked to Stan for a while in Hannibal about that. He suggested doing it that way, said there would be not worry's about them becoming loose. He said that is what they did on all of their rigs.

blacksheep10 · Aug 10, 2008

yep, I regret having lefts. it was nice when I was finalizing my pinion angle and wheelbase and all other manner of ****, but then its a bitch after that. to change a right only system, you pull a link and run it in/out. or just have mockup links laying there.

Beyer · Aug 10, 2008

Yep, I have L/H and R/H threads and one of my uppers jam nuts came loose and the whole axle shifted to the side about 4 inches. Luckily I caught it before it fell out.

Next time I would do all R/H threads.

Marty · Aug 10, 2008

Thats why I have heard of tacking the jams, but thanks to this thread I think I will go all right hand when/if I link my rig.....never thought of it, my tie rod is all RH beacause the only chevy TREs you get at the parts store LH are like 5 inches long and have a hole for a steering stabilizer.

Beyer · Aug 11, 2008

Marty said:
Thats why I have heard of tacking the jams, but thanks to this thread I think I will go all right hand when/if I link my rig.....never thought of it, my tie rod is all RH beacause the only chevy TREs you get at the parts store LH are like 5 inches long and have a hole for a steering stabilizer.

I might do that on my uppers but my lowers are aluminum.

Blase · Aug 11, 2008

Cole said:
I will be going with 2" 7075 with 1 1/4 heims all the way around

Is that enough material once you cut the threads? That only leaves .375 wall thickness around the threads. i am planning on running 1-1/4 JJ on mine and atleast 2.250 links.
2.00 7075 Alum 36" long wieghs 11.417 LBS
2.250 7075 Alum 36" long wieghs 14.449 LBS

If you use the 2.250 for all eight links thats 25LBS heavier. Is this worth it? I have never run or seen anyone run the Alum with 1-1/4 personally so you guys tell me.

blacksheep10 · Aug 11, 2008

I was wondering the same thing. food for thought. wyatt has 1" shanks with 1.75" links. :popcorn:

Matt, I can't do what branik can price wise with drill/tap/wrench flat/sexiness at comp price.

Cole · Aug 12, 2008

Blase said:
Is that enough material once you cut the threads? That only leaves .375 wall thickness around the threads. i am planning on running 1-1/4 JJ on mine and atleast 2.250 links.
2.00 7075 Alum 36" long wieghs 11.417 LBS
2.250 7075 Alum 36" long wieghs 14.449 LBS

If you use the 2.250 for all eight links thats 25LBS heavier. Is this worth it? I have never run or seen anyone run the Alum with 1-1/4 personally so you guys tell me.

Man I have no idea. If I need to run 2.250 I will. Whatever I run it better hold up because it's going to get the beating of a life time.

Beyer · Aug 12, 2008

I use 1-1/4" J.J.'s with 2" Aluminum link material. No problems so far. I think there is plenty of meat left around the threads.

Blase · Aug 12, 2008

Beyer said:
I use 1-1/4" J.J.'s with 2" Aluminum link material. No problems so far. I think there is plenty of meat left around the threads.

Thanks that's what I was looking for

. Sounds like the "Rock Midget" runs the same set-up on his, maybe he will grace us with his wisdom/opinion :flipoff1:

:afro:.

Beyer · Aug 12, 2008

Blase said:
Thanks that's what I was looking for . Sounds like the "Rock Midget" runs the same set-up on his, maybe he will grace us with his wisdom/opinion :afro:.

On a side note, Ken at KORE built these for me and he did not have any concerns either. I think he has done quite a few sets for others as well.