jeepmauler
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- Oct 17, 2006
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Cheerleader Jeep... 1 ton edition
- Thread starter NotMatt
- Start date
I'm concerned about the driveline. I planned on only taking width out on the long side only. I want to run a stock length short side. My measurements say that if I don't take the long side down 6", I won't be able to keep the stock spring width on the Jeep (the passenger side perch would be on top of the diff if I take any less out).
Maybe I'm over-analyzing this... I think the driveline will work about the same as CC's because the diff will be as far to the passenger side as possible without outboarding the springs.
Jonathan, are your springs a stock'ish width apart, or did you outboard them a little when you re-did all your mounts?
Maybe I'm over-analyzing this... I think the driveline will work about the same as CC's because the diff will be as far to the passenger side as possible without outboarding the springs.
Jonathan, are your springs a stock'ish width apart, or did you outboard them a little when you re-did all your mounts?
Blueleader
Well-Known Member
Isn't the engine and tranny offset to the passenger side a little to make room for a driver side front diff? Seems like that would leave you pretty cramped for space when swapping the diff to the passener side.
What's the point of doing so? Just to run the 300? With the expense and time retubing the front housing and fighting the front driveline, would you be better off flipping the 300 or saving up for an aftermarket t-case?
What's the point of doing so? Just to run the 300? With the expense and time retubing the front housing and fighting the front driveline, would you be better off flipping the 300 or saving up for an aftermarket t-case?
Passenger side drop adds a complication or two, but uncomplicates so many other things. It's worth it. I have to build a new front driveline anyway, adding a pillowblock to make it two piece is not that hard. The axle needs to be narrowed anyway, why not flip it over in the same process?
Flipping the D300 is not ideal, must run expensive cable shifters and make sure fluid doesn't leak out, I don't like that and it just wasn't "designed" to run upside down, which is enough to make me think twice about it. Maybe that's just silly, but that's what I think anyway.
An atlas or stak is expensive, no two ways about it. Some would argue that polishing the D300 is just as expensive, but for me it's "6 of one, half dozen of the other"... I can get a D300 for cheap and add upgrades as I see fit, whereas I can just spend a bunch of money up front and get something similar that's driver's side drop.
Plus it simplifies my exhaust routing, and I HATE working on complicated exhaust. :redneck:
The arguments are compelling though for staying driver's side drop, and I'm going to think long and hard before I pull the trigger on having the axle swapped to passenger side drop.
Flipping the D300 is not ideal, must run expensive cable shifters and make sure fluid doesn't leak out, I don't like that and it just wasn't "designed" to run upside down, which is enough to make me think twice about it. Maybe that's just silly, but that's what I think anyway.
An atlas or stak is expensive, no two ways about it. Some would argue that polishing the D300 is just as expensive, but for me it's "6 of one, half dozen of the other"... I can get a D300 for cheap and add upgrades as I see fit, whereas I can just spend a bunch of money up front and get something similar that's driver's side drop.
Plus it simplifies my exhaust routing, and I HATE working on complicated exhaust. :redneck:
The arguments are compelling though for staying driver's side drop, and I'm going to think long and hard before I pull the trigger on having the axle swapped to passenger side drop.
i'm sure both ways have their benefits...the exhaust would be way easier...but the cost of having one done for you(so you don't have too) would be a cheaper alternative...you should check costs of everything both ways and post it up so that we all know....
Toyotanut
Well-Known Member
Also if you stick to passenger drop you may not need a 2 piece dline since you won't have the starter to worry about
wheelinjp
Well-Known Member
when I did my d300 in mine I had to run a 1.5in body lift and still had to cut a small hole in the floor for the shifter clearance. If you go drivers drop, run a different t-case like a 3.8 atlas and leave the axles full width, running hummer beadlocks on it with 1.5in spacers up front for steering arm clearance you should be money ahead. You will save on the cost of narrowing housings, custom length shafts, body lift, and having to do upgrades to the t-case. 4 to 1s and a 32spline output are over a grand, and a 3.8 atlas is like 1500-1800 used or 2000 new. You will be into your dana 300 1300 or so and it is still an inferior t-case to an atlas. Besides I think you can run your stock crossmember with the atlas. I would start saving and shopping for an atlas and go from there drivers drop. Wait a minute you have a 90 ford d60? shoot too bad it isnt a 78-79 they are 32in center on the spring mounts. Maybe wait a little longer, sell your 60 and buy an earlier one, and do it as a bolt in. I did this build a few years ago with pass drop and it can be done much easier with drivers drop stuff if you are keeping the stock engine and tranny. I did it pass on mine because of the tbi 350, th400 and dana 300. Also I had a normal driveline in the front of mine. Does your tranny get that in the way? I ran a 700r4 and a th400 with no driveline clearance issues.
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Compelling arguments for staying driver's side drop. Even if I stay driver's drop, I want to narrow it... mainly because like JP said, my 60 is from a 90 F-350, which means the stock spring pads on the axle are really wide compared to the late 70's ford 60. 
If I narrow 6" it and run 2" spacers on each side, I will be almost identical in WMS width to the rear 14 bolt with regular SRW hubs. I like that. I'll have to put spacers on anyway to run the H1's with high steer.
If I narrow 6" it and run 2" spacers on each side, I will be almost identical in WMS width to the rear 14 bolt with regular SRW hubs. I like that. I'll have to put spacers on anyway to run the H1's with high steer.
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
My springs are stock width apart. I made a custom mount on the passenger side so I did not have to use the cast in mount. I achieved a better pinion angle, got rig of the crappy bolts that hold the spring plate down, and also centered my axle at the same time. Dont waste your time with drivers-side drop, run a clocked 300 and make your rig fit around your drivetrain. A two piece driveline isnt that big a deal, I used to think it was and most people seem to. If I had to do it over again I would have narrowed both sides equally and tried to get away with a conventional driveline, but when I put an auto in I probably would have hit the pan.
Dont let wanting to run a stock shortside shaft stop you from setting your rig up how it will work best, its only 75 bucks to get it machined!
Dont let wanting to run a stock shortside shaft stop you from setting your rig up how it will work best, its only 75 bucks to get it machined!
14 bolt is in, kinda. It's just temporary and will stay this way while I work on pulling the front axle and getting the 60 under there. :redneck:
I'm going to stick with the XJ leafs in the rear, but I'm going to re-do the shackle mounts (lower) and french the front of the leafs up into the frame like crashy did on Six-Nine's YJ build.
I'm going to stick with the XJ leafs in the rear, but I'm going to re-do the shackle mounts (lower) and french the front of the leafs up into the frame like crashy did on Six-Nine's YJ build.
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Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
is the 14 bolt hitting the ground with those little tires?
Pretty close. It's kinda like being well hung... it's big, and it gets in the way sometimes... but it's BIG. :awesomework:
Probably going to Melissa's tonight. Tomorrow night Rose is coming over for a "Motorcycle lesson"... ummm.... yeah... that's it.... I told her it might be too big, but she thinks she can handle it. :redneck:
BTW, it's about time to start trap shooting again on Thursdays buddy.
New wheel base!
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Front axle is out... now the dilemma is whether to keep the front fenders (such as they are) or scrap them. I like having the inner fenderwell, I got lots of **** to relocated if I ditch them... but it would make working on the thing so much easier, since I have to run all new brake lines and make new shock hoops up front and such.
I'm going to drink another rum and coke and think about it for an hour, then I'm going to go ahead and start ripping the fenders off I think. :awesomework:
I'm going to drink another rum and coke and think about it for an hour, then I'm going to go ahead and start ripping the fenders off I think. :awesomework:
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
rip em out, I havent run into any issues.
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Rip those bitches outta there :awesomework:
