Cut corner= strange issue need advise

So issue was wife's 22re runner was marking its territory everywhere, everytime we stopped. so I figured it was the front oil pump seal so I tore it down and changed it ...while it say overnight it pushed out more oil not in the front oil pump seal. Whomever owned this before cut the head gasket at the part that goes around the timing chain cover so ....what can I use that will hold up and not leak without changin the whole head gasket red rtv was on there and didn't hold.



Also has anyone successfully changed the oil pan gasket on a ifs 22re without pulling the motor?


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No biggy just clean the surfaces perfectly with brake cleaner and put a bead of the right stuff on the cover to head area and let it sit for about 20 before instalation. You'll have to unbolt the front diff to drop it far enough but yes the pan can be pulled with the engine in place.

WHITE TRASH said:

No biggy just clean the surfaces perfectly with brake cleaner and put a bead of the right stuff on the cover to head area and let it sit for about 20 before instalation. You'll have to unbolt the front diff to drop it far enough but yes the pan can be pulled with the engine in place.

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The right stuff being???

Oh it's actually called the right stuff .....nice

Im fond of this stuff....... kinda spendy though.

http://www.dieselorings.com/13-017-ford-grey-silicone-gasket-sealant.html

I hope that will fix the problem. I had the exact same issue (someone cut the front of the head gasket off). It finally got to the point where it was unfixable and I replaced the head gasket rather than deal with persistent oil leaks.

Glenn said:

I hope that will fix the problem. I had the exact same issue (someone cut the front of the head gasket off). It finally got to the point where it was unfixable and I replaced the head gasket rather than deal with persistent oil leaks.

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That would suck

WA-Wheeler said:

Im fond of this stuff....... kinda spendy though.

http://www.dieselorings.com/13-017-ford-grey-silicone-gasket-sealant.html

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That is what I will get looks legit and I they use it for hpops it's good enough for me

Sandtrap1986 said:

That is what I will get looks legit and I they use it for hpops it's good enough for me

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Looks about like toyota FIPG that is the factory gray rtv.

So a question here, with a side note of I have dealt with this issue before and used the right stuff and it turned out good for a couple of years.

the question is though, why not just change the head gasket? if you already have the cover off its pretty straight forward from there, you dont need to pull the intake just leave it on the head, pull the manifold off if you want to or disconnect it at the collector. from where you are at its only about a hour of work if your taking your time.

just my thoughts it would give me peace of mind if it were my wifes vehicle because god forbid it ever have a problem.

For what its worth,,,,,,

The right stuff is too expensive and if its the squirt can, it will go bad with a halfa can left.

Go to Walmart and get the "Ultra Grey". Its the same as the right stuff and the dealer crap. It will set up firm and last longer than silicone.

Ultra Grey at Wally is only about $5 compared to $10-18 for the others.


Just my .02

(and that cut gasket is the sign of ghetto fixin, start looking for other cut corners before they fail too)

CHOP SHOP said:

(and that cut gasket is the sign of ghetto fixin, start looking for other cut corners before they fail too)

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This.

You have the chance to do it right. What else was done ghetto? How important is peace of mind to you?

You can do the pan gasket with everything in. I just did one a few months ago. Gotta weasel it out though.
And a + for the grey or black rtv, and yes the right stuff works good too
But without the gasket I think I would try and make a new one to rtv in place.

super samurai said:

You can do the pan gasket with everything in. I just did one a few months ago. Gotta weasel it out though.
And a + for the grey or black rtv, and yes the right stuff works good too
But without the gasket I think I would try and make a new one to rtv in place.

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I think that is what Might do cut a gasket to fit then rtv it in

The right stuff is the best out there. It is all I use. Yes is is spendy however I buy the calking tubes and use them in the mini gun then seal the tube with a nail or screw. Nothing seems to work as well. IT is a very thick material that is way sticker than RTV.

The Right Stuff is the ONLY silicone I use, and have used for many many yrs.
We use Ultra Gray at work (which isn't that much less money)= it's messier, more wasteful, and when I open a tube, the first thing that runs out is some of the lubricant/additives that's mixed into the gray stuff, telling me it's breaking down just sitting there. I prefer The Right Stuff in the caulking tubes. I too use the mini caulking gun, and yes it's a little more expensive, but I have left it hanging on the side of my box for 2 months without using, and all I do is pull out the 1/2" cured piece of silicone from the nozzle, and she's ready to go again. The same tube that's in my gun now, has been in the gun for 6 months, and I just used it the other day to seal the front and back of a 4.3L intake (No I don't use the junk that comes with the gaskets...). Not to mention, you do NOT have to let it 'skin' before assembling---I never do, as it's stickiest when first applied, AND you can put it into service right away...I have NEVER had the silicone fail and start 'wicking' or leaking in any application I use it on, including Auto trans pans, right Japerry??? In fact, he about destroyed the old pan I glued on last time I serviced his trans, he smashed it on a rock and needed to change the pan---no leaks from the silicone...:awesomework:

That said, I agree with KP81, if you're this close to having the head off, do it right, and pop a new gasket in there, piece of mind that it's done right, should be your answer ...and closely check all the guides while it's apart, if they're the plastic ones and worn, do a guide/chain/tensioner kit now......:awesomework:

zukkev said:

That said, I agree with KP81, if you're this close to having the head off, do it right, and pop a new gasket in there, piece of mind that it's done right, should be your answer ...and closely check all the guides while it's apart, if they're the plastic ones and worn, do a guide/chain/tensioner kit now......:awesomework:

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:awesomework:

ive had to do this several times because usually the gasket gets damaged doing a timing chain. my shop exclusively uses right stuff. i swear sometimes you dont even need bolts to hold the parts. DO NOT let it sit. assemble and run it. couple good daps in the corners is always a good idea. and make sure you have the two pesky 10mm on the left hand side of the timing cover/head.