My first LS build

I bought new FAST intake, throttle body and injectors, you would think they would include the $7 TB gasket, THEY DO NOT!!!!!!!!! On a better note I traded the guy out of the exhaust I had borrowed. I got the exhaust he got a LS car intake and 80mm after mkt. TB. I needed the exhaust and would not use the other stuff any time soon so I think we both win. We start cutting hay today so don't know when I will get to work on the engine, probably burn the midnight oil a little.

I'm ready to see this thing run!!! Let me know when I need to be there!

Ok, maybe we will make a party out of it. Sure been a long time coming.

Worked late last night up early at it again. Thought I could call the crew together and finally fire this baby up...... They say a picture is worth a thousand words, in this case it's worth several thousand.

Anybody want to weigh in feel free. I am calling this build a fail at this point. I had to walk away for now will try to see how bad it is tomorrow. :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

Re:

What exactly are we looking at?

Cracked head?

Re:

Water coming out of a cracked block.

:''''''''''(

Cracked head or bad head gasket would be best case. Being it has never been fired chances are the gasket is ok. A weeping head gasket usually forces a drop of water to the edge, gets larger on the outside and rolls off the block and usually under heat/ pressure. A cracked head can act the same way unless it weeps internally. What we are looking at is the short, lower, exposed head bolts driver side. It looks like the water is traveling up the stud and out from under the head stud washer. If that is what is happening the block has to be cracked around the bottom/ side of the head bolt seat. Those are blind holes, do not protrude into any water jacket, there shouldn't be any water there. As far as I know it is not repairable. Most of the wiring harness is installed just needed to plug into the computer, program and fire it up. So close.
I thought about making sure there is no water in the cylinder and starting it anyway!!!! Thing is fuel system is dry right now and better like that for storage while I figure out what I am going to do.

Computer programing and a little wiring, this is all I liked. I have an electric water pump on it for the cranking stand. I wired up the pump and was looking for leaks when I found the leaking head stud. Anyway here is what it looked like.

Have you tracked how much you have spent so far on the build? Curious how it compares to a crate engine.

I pretty much have every receipt for the build but haven't added them up, I probably do not want to know that! If you pay someone to assemble the parts you buy it is cheaper to buy a crate engine. The rub is prices are listed for a basic combination but once you add this and add that the price goes way up in a hurry so make sure you compare the parts you want with the parts the manufacture offers. Texas speed is a good site to compare builds with. I will get some numbers later when I can get them added up. I suppose others would like to know also.

I just came in from the barn. Removed #5and 7 plug turned it over to see if water was on top of the piston, there was not. The manifold was removed so I could get a better look at the stud. The water is coming from under the nut/ washer. I did not turn the pump back on but after turning it over it started leaking around the stud. This indicates pressure is on the water and I noticed water had dripped on the floor further toward the front of the engine. I rule out the gasket hoping the head is cracked. I just didn't want to fool with it today but I am going to have to at least remove that head.

Dammit to hell!

Gawdayum dude i hate that for you

Got back on the build/ repair today. First off I want to show y'all how good planning and attention to detail work out. The rocker assemblies I used are used Jessel 1.8's. Each one of them show signs of rocker shaft to cap bind. We relieved/ indexed and shimmed the springs to get better alignment on the valve stem. The tip of the rocker should contact the center of the stem, look close at the pictures. For most of y'all " I know, who cares". But for those of you that know what you are looking at JR says "That's Right, I Am The Man!!!!!"
I have seen these pattern all the way to either edge and yes engine will run fine but it is misaligned and causes wear and pushes the valve against its guide and wears out the rocker tips. The more centered the tip rides on the stem = less load on that stem. It is just better when it is right, especially when it is this right. Too bad it all has to come apart.....

Thank y'all for the support, I will get it fixed and we will hear it run.
Removed head stud to verify water is not coming from under the stud, it is not. Removed head used a big flat file to mark across head, no marks were made in the middle of the head meaning there is a low spot there. Next we placed a straight edge across the head and placed a light behind it, sure enough we saw light under the straight edge. The ipad didn't pick up the light very well but look closely at the end of the make shift pointer maybe you can see it. Hope to get the head to the shop this for professional opinion and hopefully repair it. Later tonight I hope to post up in my thread over in General Discussion about the responsibilities of the person that sold me these heads. Check it out and give your opinion, should be interesting.

I'd be itchy with contained joy after seeing that. Good thing those ARP studs aren't TTY.

Received word that this beast is alive as of yesterday and that video exists.

Yes it is back on track. I have not been idle with this build. The head was cracked around the #4 stud into the water passage. Twice I had a local head shop cut the area out, weld it back up and drill it out. It recracked and leaked every time. I gambled the $50 shipping to send the head to TEA in Ohio. TEA does R&D and CNC work on Trick Flow heads. Greg at TEA was awesome to work with but had bad news. He told me that these heads are first design and this was a common fail with them, the head is not repairable. Greg worked some things out with me and I got a set of 245's with all but one upgrade they offer. Remember the first heads were 225's. The 245's require a mim. bore of 4.125 but my bore is only 4.030, both Greg and Brian Tooley assured me by using the 4.125 head gaskets I would be good. These are the six bolt heads required on all large bore aftermarket blocks, easier to sale if I ever need to get rid of them or buy an aftermarket block. That took up all of August and September, farming, my business, my 40hr job and my dads health issues take up most of my time.

I have pictures of measuring to make sure the valves clear the edge of the cylinders, reassembly and P/V clearances. I am in Tallahassee today maybe I can get those posted tomorrow. JJ I tried to send you the video but computer says the file is too large but I will figure something out.
Roll Tide

Six bolt Trick flow 245's. Back together, fuel system plumbed, wired and no leaks so far. Ready to fire.

By the way, remember the thread I started about the responsibility of a person selling parts, got all sorts of replies. Turns out the guy I bought the 225's from is a stand up guy, I got most of my money back and an apology for the head being cracked. Very grateful for that, he could have told me to take a hike. Roll Tide

Clean water pump and steam line install.... anybody see a potential problem here?