Lets talk 60 front brakes...

deranged57 · Nov 18, 2013

Re:

What brake set up are you running on the rear axle? Do you still have a proportioning valve? If yes, is it stock or aftermarket? If you do not have one this could be causing your pedal travel issue, assuming you have the system properly bled and all hoses are I good shape.

If you have a faulty valve or have removed it and are running drums brakes or a smaller caliper in the rear the pressure will go there first since less is required to move the smaller pistons. After the rear system has reached peak pressure the remaining pedal travel and resulting pressure will activate the front calipers.

Drum brakes only require around 600-800 psi to operate where disc require 1200-1500 to apply adequate stopping force.

Pull your head out of your ass...it's not a Hat!!

zjtrey · Nov 18, 2013

deranged57 said:
Pull your head out of your ass...it's not a Hat!!

sounds like you know brakes…

i've got the same chevy ton calipers front and rear.. all the hoses are in good shape, i just replaced them a few months ago and i don't have a proportioning valve..

deranged57 · Nov 20, 2013

Re:

On my rig I am running a Super Duty M/C with hydraulic booster and a Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, everything else is the same as your setup. Always works great with firm pedal and powerful stopping.

The M/C you are running should do just fine provided it's in good shape, the booster wouldn't cause the issues you're experiencing. Is your M/C a reman unit or was is salvaged from an donor vehicle? Is it plumbed correctly and is the fluid clean. It's amazing what problems dirty fluid can cause.

Can you snap a photo of your M/C, and both front and rear caliper setups?

What rotors are you using up front? I noticed you asked about using the Ford rotors with the conversion brakes and I do not believe the offset on the Ford rotors will work with the Chevy components. It might bolt up ok but your extended pedal travel could be the caliper bracket flexing to accommodate the difference.

Just tossing out a few things for you to look into before spending money that isn't needed.

Pull your head out of your ass...it's not a Hat!!

zjtrey · Nov 20, 2013

The MC is a reman.. its only a couple of years old

the fluid is definitely dirty. never considered that would cause a problem. just flush it out by bleeding the system?

I'll get some pics..

I did end up switching from ford rotors to chevy up front with the caliper swap.. the fords were too far offset to work..

i appreciate your thoughts

Neal3000 · Nov 20, 2013

Do you have the 2lb residual valves that your supposed to use with disks? Not sure if they would be built into that master cylinder or if they were inline somewhere in those e350's but that is a disk front drum rear master cylinder

zjtrey · Nov 20, 2013

I do have a 2lb residual valve on the fronts but not the rear

TBItoy · Dec 13, 2014

I found a rotor that should work for slip on for front and rear one ton axles, and be perfect for 86-95 4wd Toyota pickup calipers.

2005 Caddy Deville Limo chassis (HD) rear rotors

Available for cheap from Rockauto $25.

kushKrawlin · Dec 13, 2014

TBItoy said:
I found a rotor that should work for slip on for front and rear one ton axles, and be perfect for 86-95 4wd Toyota pickup calipers.

2005 Caddy Deville Limo chassis (HD) rear rotors

Available for cheap from Rockauto $25.

Haha!! Nick man Ya never cease to amaze me. I bet u been Thinkin bout this since last year when it was brought up. That **** is funny as hell, I saw on pirate where you were talking about steering pump reservoirs, I think it was two years later that you finally posted "the one". Haha. Awesome. you and a few others are a HUGE part of all tha **** I have learned, and built ... That's cool **** man. Good Lord just think if this hobby was all morons like me., wata cluster fuk. Seriously tho, Thanks man.

Craig_c · Dec 13, 2014

Has anyone actually used the LC calipers in place of the 1 ton ford calipers??

wgamble · Dec 15, 2014

Maybe everyone else knew this but I just went to Blackbird Customs website and you can no longer shop online. You can call them but that is all.

zjtrey · Dec 15, 2014

call TMR… they ship quickly and great quality parts...

BUG-E J · Dec 15, 2014

I run a Lugnut 4x4 kit. Easy to deal with, I got it next day, and he is a vendor on here. Shaved about 30 pounds a side over stock one ton brakes too! :****:

RustyC · Dec 15, 2014

Does anyone have an application or part # for a slip on 8-6.5" pattern rotor to fit on a 99-04 Superduty 60? I have redrilled unit bearings and rotors now but want a slip on rotor to fit without having to redrill the pattern. OEM brakes no Willwood or Spidertrax stuff.

Researching and found these (https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1280029&cc=1362394) looks like the hub register may need to be opened up but pretty close.
Here are the Superduty specs. (https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2035162&cc=1385445)

wgamble · Dec 15, 2014

Someone on here says they run super duty brakes on a dana 60 in another thread. Maybe they will speak up

TBItoy · Dec 15, 2014

RustyC said:
Does anyone have an application or part # for a slip on 8-6.5" pattern rotor to fit on a 99-04 Superduty 60? I have redrilled unit bearings and rotors now but want a slip on rotor to fit without having to redrill the pattern. OEM brakes no Willwood or Spidertrax stuff.

Researching and found these (https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1280029&cc=1362394) looks like the hub register may need to be opened up but pretty close.
Here are the Superduty specs. (https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2035162&cc=1385445)

I don't think there will be any that will work, as all the 8x6.5 slip on rotors have a smaller hub register.

What's the big deal about redrilling rotors? Surely they don't wear out on your buggy/rig that fast since they last 100k+ miles on f250s

wap13 · Dec 15, 2014

Does switching to the 1/2-3/4 ton chevy brakes hurt performance? I am in the process of building a ford 60 and like the idea of saving weight wherever I can. But since it will see street time too I dont want the brakes to suffer if they dont stop as well as the ford dual piston calipers.

RustyC · Dec 15, 2014

TBItoy said:
What's the big deal about redrilling rotors? Surely they don't wear out on your buggy/rig that fast since they last 100k+ miles on f250s

Not a big deal just skipping that step would be nice. One of my rotors has a crack that started at one of the original bolt holes. I got the axle from a metal recyclers and believe it was bounced around on the ground before I got it. It had no tires or rims and was sitting on the rotors. RockAuto rotors are inexpensive and got me thinking.