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Lets talk 60 front brakes...

Neal3000 said:
Wth?, i thought wildwood was the best **** in the world

don't get me wrong, the braking is better than the stock 1 ton front caliper and 3/4 ton calipers in the rear. but would i recommend the 4 piston WW calipers to you, no.....
 
Blackbird customs brake caliper brackets and stock 78k10 rotors and calipers. Run 15s w/o grinding.


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jsburkey21 said:
Blackbird customs brake caliper brackets and stock 78k10 rotors and calipers. Run 15s w/o grinding.


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Are the wheel spacers need for 15's ?
 
Im using Black Bird customs on my Ford 60. But when I installed the caliper bracket and spacer I realized the total thickness used up almost all of the shoulder on the back side of the spindle that rides inside the knuckle. So , worried about making it weak , I removed the spacer ring and cut and offset the caliper bracket ears where the caliper bolt holes are . By doing this the shoulder on the spacer is 5/16 of a inch deeper in the knuckle. Stronger i believe ?????? :dunno:
 
I saw someone mentioned the TMR brackets. We are a stocking dealer for them and the brake caliper brackets to swap to 1/2-3/4 ton brakes sell like crazy. We have 1 or 2 sets left and will be getting more but they work awesome and TMR makes really nice products!
 
zjtrey said:
So why are the ford 60 brackets so expensive? almost double what rear disc conversion brackets cost..?

because they can, and we buy them :****:
 
I have the Virginia 4X4 chevy conversion brackets on my 79 ford D60 and really like them. I also have weld-on brackets for my rear D80(non-steer) that use the same JB5 chevy calipers. You can beat going to the parts store and picking up calipers and pads for all 4 corners for about $125, plus you know that EVERY parts slinger worth walking in the door of will have that **** on the shelf. For rotors on the front I did use the stock 3/4 ton chevy parts even though I am not a huge fan of the design of the rotor, but nothing has broken yet and I can lock up all four 42's on blacktop in a 5500lb rig.

I do like the idea of using those Toyota calipers and retaining the ford rotor, but the calipers are 3-4x more money and probably aren't a stock item at most parts stores.
 
Wilwood has a dual piston caliper that bolts right where a stock 3/4 ton caliper came from, like $380 a pair with shoes and bolts
 
figured I'd post what I ended up doing on this..

I couldn't get my hands on a set of the fj80 calipers but I have some spare calipers from my DD/towrig 07 tundra..

The tophat area on the ford rotors is too big in diameter for the toyota calipers to fully engage the rotor...hope that makes sense.. the raised part of the rotor is too big around so only 2/3 of the pad would contact the rotor, maybe the 80 calipers are smaller but all the measurements on 80 stuff i could find showed it wasn't very much smaller in the aspects that matter..

SO- I bought the chevy caliper brackets from cutthroat offroad.. it'll be nice to have the same caliper and pads on all corners..

Does anyone know if the ford rotors will work with the chevy ton calipers?
 
I had the same issue. I went with the blackbird customs bracket(i think) 3/4 ton chevy calipers and rotors. I was running 15 wheels, then 17s, and now back to 15s without grinding. I like the idea of the chevy parts due to availabilty and cost. They stop my rig just fine but I need to do more bleeding on my rear brakes due to the cutting brake. I also have a stripped out bleeder screw on one caliper, no biggie since a whole caliper is only like $20.
 
so I've got better braking with these calipers up front but my pedal still has a lot of travel. the pedal doesn't get hard until almost the floor but the tires do lock up.. I'm running the 90's e-350 master cylinder 1.125 bore with a single diaphragm vacuum booster…

I'm wondering if my master cylinder is bad or if there's a better parts store mc i can run..

thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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