Pics of your shops/garages/specs

TBItoy · Jan 16, 2017

Those angled metal trusses are cool. I wish I'd have used those at least on the shop portion of mine. I went with all flatbottom wood trusses, which workd out great in the house portion, but sucks in the shop part with 10' walls.

If I was building mine again, I'd use all high roof metal trusses, then used basement trusses or those wood I beam floor joists to build the ceiling over the house and run my utilities in, then floored over it so I'd have a **** ton more storage, or an upstairs room. But when I built mine "quick and cheap" was the plan (and necessity)

TacomaJD · Jan 16, 2017

Another thing I notice is that with the metal trusses, there isn't a need for a heavy duty wall header to be built since the trusses are supported on the main posts, not in between like wooden trusses. I like what Zayne's shop looks like, that's ideal. Except I am afraid of rollup doors. we have a bunch at work and always had trouble out of them over the years. I just don't want to have to be calling the garage door guy to work on my doors when they fawk up and won't close or open all the way. insulated garage door on tracks - more reliable and looks better from the outside, although rigging up longer braces to hold the tracks may be aggravating since the trusses will be spanned 10' and be fairly tall.

TBItoy · Jan 16, 2017

TacomaJD said:
Another thing I notice is that with the metal trusses, there isn't a need for a heavy duty wall header to be built since the trusses are supported on the main posts, not in between like wooden trusses. I like what Zayne's shop looks like, that's ideal. Except I am afraid of rollup doors. we have a bunch at work and always had trouble out of them over the years. I just don't want to have to be calling the garage door guy to work on my doors when they fawk up and won't close or open all the way. insulated garage door on tracks - more reliable and looks better from the outside, although rigging up longer braces to hold the tracks may be aggravating since the trusses will be spanned 10' and be fairly tall.

On the insulated panel doors, the don't have to roll back flat, if you put it in the gable end, you can go up at angle toward the next truss.

Hell we've got one in the shop at work that just goes straight up. 12' door on a 24' wall.

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whiskeymakin · Jan 17, 2017

You can get wood trusses with a little pitch also. Wasn't a whole lot more money I dont think.....it all adds up in a hurry tho!

zayne2427 · Jan 17, 2017

how far away from your front wall is your lift post mounted?

whiskeymakin · Jan 17, 2017

4' wanted to be able to store some sticks of tube over there or just whatever piles up haha

Sorry I read it wrong. I will have to measure when I get home. Shop is 32 deep. I placed the post torwards the back wall past the cut they put in the concrete....guessing, I'd say 15-14 feet from the back.

blacksheep10 · Jan 17, 2017

Depends on how long of **** you want to lift with it :flipoff1:

I backed my CC dually in once and about tore the taillight off on the mezzanine. No other vehicle I've had on it has been a problem

TacomaJD · Jan 23, 2017

Quote from pole barn builder. This is pole barn style, with those metal trusses on 9' centers.

This is for a 30x36x12 with two 10x10 rollup barrel style doors, insulated shop, with 12' wide lean to and 24' of it closed in, other 12' open carport/patio, 2 heavy duty steel entry doors, and a 6' wide x 7' tall rollup door on the side of fhe storage room.

Cost does not include concrete. So my question is, for those that have built recently, how much do you think concrete would run? $5k or so? It will be a 42' wide x 36' long pad. I asked him and he doesn't fool with the concrete, so he couldn't give me an estimate. He said they frame it, then I get someone to do concrete, then they finish it.

TBItoy · Jan 23, 2017

You gonna wire it yourself?

TacomaJD · Jan 23, 2017

TBItoy said:
You gonna wire it yourself?

Yeah I will handle that separately, just mainly want to get the structure built completely the way I want it, then wire it later. I don't know much of **** about wiring, but my buddy and his family own a big electrician business here in town and he does side work. So me and him could do it one weekend and he would charge cheap labor and price on all materials, plus I will be able to learn a lot too by helping him. Win/win. The new house has a meter base (maybe milbank?) on the side of the house beside the garage, right across from where shop will be built, and he said power can be ran from that meter base easily to the shop. Said he put it there specifically in case he built a detached garage later, but he never did. Again, I don't like electricity, I leave that to the educated, so I will know more about that when the time to wire gets here.

BlackYJ · Jan 23, 2017

Check with summertown metals on the pole barn...I was surprised how cheap they quoted one for me which I hope to get in the next decade after I finish my house. They said they use Amish to put them up (not sure how that works.... guess I may have to build them a hitching post for there buggy and provide them a campsite) (maybe Bradley drake can chime in on how the Amish work :stir:

)

the_white_shadow · Jan 23, 2017

Depending on thickness of concrete, id expect it to be somewhere around $6k mark. Down here in TX my 3200sqft pad was around $13k of 5".

Also you may have to run an additional meter to the shop depending on what amperage is available from your house. I went with a 200A service and now have 2 electricity bills. No biggie, just something to think about. You electrical install price may go up depending on how munch underground they will have to install. I am electrical retarded as well. I had someone set it all up initially, then i went in and added the easy stuff (ie additional circuits and breakers for random stuff). I went with metal clad wiring as well. More $$$ up front, but cleaner IMO.

All i know is that whatever you get for quotes, add 15-20% for incidentals. Something else always pops up that you didnt think you would need. In my case it was $2400 worth of lighting. Sucked at the time, but definitely worth it.

bbone · Jan 23, 2017

TacomaJD said:
Yeah I will handle that separately, just mainly want to get the structure built completely the way I want it, then wire it later. I don't know much of **** about wiring, but my buddy and his family own a big electrician business here in town and he does side work. So me and him could do it one weekend and he would charge cheap labor and price on all materials, plus I will be able to learn a lot too by helping him. Win/win. The new house has a meter base (maybe milbank?) on the side of the house beside the garage, right across from where shop will be built, and he said power can be ran from that meter base easily to the shop. Said he put it there specifically in case he built a detached garage later, but he never did. Again, I don't like electricity, I leave that to the educated, so I will know more about that when the time to wire gets here.

That all sounds good...BUT it is so hard to know exactly what you want in this shop when dealing with power..for example:
-how many outlets? I really thought about this for my garage and missed by ALOT!!
-welder/compressor/big stuff/fridge? you almost have to know EXACTLY where that **** should be before hand
-flood lights/interior lights...not a big deal but again you need to have a good plan
-outside/lean too hook up for campers/etc
-water inside/outside (washing..pressure washing, etc)
-wiring for future expansion...what if you want a small corner for a desk/mancave ****

trucker · Jan 23, 2017

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

TacomaJD said:
Yeah I will handle that separately, just mainly want to get the structure built completely the way I want it, then wire it later. I don't know much of **** about wiring, but my buddy and his family own a big electrician business here in town and he does side work. So me and him could do it one weekend and he would charge cheap labor and price on all materials, plus I will be able to learn a lot too by helping him. Win/win. The new house has a meter base (maybe milbank?) on the side of the house beside the garage, right across from where shop will be built, and he said power can be ran from that meter base easily to the shop. Said he put it there specifically in case he built a detached garage later, but he never did. Again, I don't like electricity, I leave that to the educated, so I will know more about that when the time to wire gets here.

I just got done wiring my shop. Was a ton of work but worth the money savings in the end.

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TacomaJD · Jan 23, 2017

Electrical is unrelated to construction of shop, that is primary focus as of now. Once I am done wrecking my brain over shop construction, then I will start over and form a plan to accomodate electrical needs. Couple places for big stuff, and bunch of standard outlets, and a few good lights, no need for anything over the top. I have survived in my current shop for nearly 5 years via electrical cords. Lol.

Reminds me of a convo I had with Bob Youmans at the GAP in Auburn when I was about to build my current small shop. I was going over basic ideas and that it was going to run somewhere in the $7k range total, and he suggested I insulate it and put air conditioning in it. He said oh yeah, I just turn my a/c on before I get home via my phone, and by the time I get there, my shop is already cool. Haha I was like damn Bob, we ain't nowhere near close to the same budget here, I can't afford that ****. Hahaha. Good times.

But anyways, here are some pics of that pole barn builder's stuff. They look good on the outside, but I am not so sure about the way they frame them gabel ends up....most I see use 6x6 posts on all walls. The way they do here looks feeble as ****. Also framing in between the poles instead of ladding the outside with 2.6's looks less strong to me too? Thoughts?

Random pics from their fb page.

kmcminn · Jan 23, 2017

I thought you werent a fan of roll up barrel doors?

TacomaJD · Jan 23, 2017

I even thought about building a lot of it myself, but I figure after a couple days into that, I would wish I had paid someone to build turnkey. Discussed this with my builder buddy as a possible option.

32x32 with either 10 or 12' walls, with only 10' wide lean-to, probably fully enclosed from front to back = 320 sq ft storage.

Me and him could get footer dug and poured. He could help me measure out to make sure layout is dead on and square. I order 8" block and a pallet of quickrete for me to lay the block myself. There's only about a foot of fall from front to back on the land, so I could lay 4 or 5 courses of blockb and end up with 2 courses of block above the concrete pad after it is poured, or just do 2 or 3 courses of block, backfill, and pour concrete pad flush with top of blocks. Concrete subbed out of course. Then stick frame walls out of 2x4's on possibly 2' centers (trusses would also be on 2' centers). Lad the walls with 2x6's before raising them as they are built, we could do that ourselves. Then once the walls are up and ready for trusses and metal, just get his whole building crew over there to finish out setting the trusses and metalling the walls and roof in a couple days. Got another buddy that has a garage door business, call him for doors. Then I can go back later and put up insulation batts in the stud walls myself, and line the interior walls and ceiling with osb.

I have plenty vacation time to take off of work to build, but doing it that way, it would probably still be as much or more than pole barn style. But a block foundation sure does sound good, mow up against it, no erosion or exposed dirt pad to have to cover up like I did at my current shop. My brain's been going 200mph all day everyday thinking about how to do it so I don't regret anything later on.

TacomaJD · Jan 23, 2017

kmcminn said:
I thought you werent a fan of roll up barrel doors?

I'm really not, but may consider them to save a little over insulated panel doors. This guy said rollup doors is all he does so that's what he quoted. He said he could just let me handle getting my own doors if I wanted to get panel doors put up, just that he didn't offer any.