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Pics of your shops/garages/specs

TacomaJD said:
Got another qoute on an all steel building, same specs, from the guy that built my current shop. Other guy was at $26,100 for what I wanted, completely turn key from ground up. This guy quoted $22-23k and all I would have to do is get the dirt pad done, which would probably be around $1000-1200ish as a rough guess based on what my dirt man charged for my current dirt pad.

Shop specs

1881235094bfcc751262eae602ebe301.jpg



So he is a couple grand cheaper, but I am still wanting to stay at or under $20k total, so I have been looking at leaning out my design a little. Initially, 12' walls for the possibility of a lift in the future is not that big a deal to me, as previously discussed. But I want a little taller door than 8'. Not sure why really, doubt I will ever have a rig taller than an 8' door. Both my Toyota crawlers I had cleared my 8' door easily. So 10x10 doors apparently need 12' walls, or so I'm told (unless roof pitch is tweaked to accomodate), reckon I could get away with going 10' walls and 9' doors? Are 9'h x 10'w garage doors common (slide up on tracks, not rollup)? That would be the perfect size for what I'm wanting. That would save a little, then opt for a 30x36 size instead of 30x40, and not insulate the storage room to save further.

At 30x36, I could possibly turn the shop sideways and have a much different layout than previously planned, which may be better. In Googling shop pics, I ran across this 30 deep x 36 wide 3 bay shop and I do like it. Looks like it would be more than plenty. But this would void my idea of having a small carport on the right side of it facing the house, incorporated into the lean-to with the storage area. I guess then I would just close in the whole 36' width for storage area? Hmm....could put an entry door from inside shop going into storage room, put up partition in storage room, and use part of it as tool room / air compressor room. Just thinking out loud. Lots of different ways I could go about this.

I would get roll up doors. Regular garage doors block light when up.
 
The carport is great, I have 20ft on the front of mine now and I am looking to extend it another 30 ft. so I can keep the camper under the carport and put my jeep and trailers under the lean to. I sure wish I would have done 14ft walls.
 
This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself
 
Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

blacksheep10 said:
This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself
My buddy just built a shop that he can back his rig in on the trailer and I know I'd be more than willing when I build a shop to spend a couple extra grand to be able to load it and leave it inside a day or more before I leave for a ride and to be able to back it in when I get home and don't feel like unloading because the weathers shitty or I'm just tired.

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blacksheep10 said:
This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself

This X 50
 
Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

TacomaJD said:
That's pretty much what I'm looking to build. 30' wide, 40' deep, on a 40x40 pad so lean to is on concrete. But woild like to do half the lean to closed in. Like the back 20' of it be a closed in room for the ole lady's storage and a secluded air compressor, and the front 20' of it just open lean to for parking/grilling/chilling under. I could work with a 30x30, but already learned my lesson with building too small and I've always wanted space for a pool table. I want it 40' deep so I can put kind of a man cave in the back left corner, pool table, tv, cheap furniture and such, then do a smaller garage door on the back right corner so nothing gets blocked in.

Hoping to stay at or under $20k for concrete, pole barn style framing with 10' walls and high clearance open trusses/joists for possibly adding a lift later, insulation, and wiring.

A friend of mine had a guy build him a 40x50 pole barn 3 years ago, 14' walls with high clearance trusses, 2 big 12x12 roll up doors, and a 10' carport on one end for $23k total for all. So I figure I should be able to knock out what I am wanting for under $20k. I would go 12' walls, but I may never put a lift in, and I think it will just look too big where it will be at.

Your buddy who built the 40x50, did the 23k include the concrete or is that just the building?
 
I put 10'x10' roll up doors on the gable end of mine with 10' eave heights. Mine is a pole barn with wooden trusses spaced 2' OC, so I found a roll up door that would roll up between the first two trusses. I cheated the first truss an inch or so back from the gable to make sure I had clearance, but has not been an issue at all. Works great and still have two 10'x10' openings on the gable end. My shop is 40'x30' and I have approximately 6'8" on from the sidewalls to the edge of the doors and about the same between the two doors. I used a standard 4:12 pitch to match the pitch of the house and doors fit and work perfectly me.

Our house is a one level ranch style house and my wife insisted that the shop didn't tower above the house so I compromised to not build as tall as I originally wanted. The shops sits back and to the right of the house and the grades there are slightly above the grades of the house, so the shops does tower over the house, but not in an overbearing way. Any taller and I would have had to deal with my wife wanting to redo our house (she has always wanted to add a second story anyway). I don't have a lift and it will be way on down the road before I could get one anyway, so no worries there for me. I have looked at and considered other possibilities for a future lift, so not to worried about if and when the time comes. Eventually I plan to add lean to to both sides and across the back for equipment/trailer storage or parking.
 
Anybody put an oil change pit in their shop floor? The way my property lays, drainage shouldn't be an issue and it would be quick and easy to do oil changes and inspections without having to put it on a 2 post lift.
Was thinking 42" wide x 8' long and 6' deep plumbed with air and electric. Keep basic hand tools and an oil catch can in it with a two piece tread plate cover over it when not in use.
 
kmcminn said:
I would get roll up doors. Regular garage doors block light when up.

Meh, never been much of a problem with my current shop and the garage doors look better.

blacksheep10 said:
This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself

Yeah, that's what I've told myself, do it and do it right. If I do end up leaning out the design, it will be for sure cutting it down to the minimum that will still suffice, not really cutting it short. Like I said, just thinking out loud. I am still pondering this every day. I am coming from a 20x24x10 one bay shop.....a 30x36x10 would still be huge. compared to what I am used to. And also will have 2 car garage on house too. And it may be our forever house, or it may not be. Might just live there 10-15 years then decide to buy some land and build in a little more remote area with no neighbors. She has the one son - 8 yrs old, and I would like 1 myself, if not two. If we had two plus hers, a 3 bed house will be outgrown fairly quickly, prompting another move. I look at it like this - if we end up being happyp there forever, then so be it. If we decide we want something else on down the road, we will sell that one and build/buy a new one that fits where we are in life at that point a little better.

Honestly, pole barn style would save a lot of money over an all steel building, but I am weary of what it would look like in 15-20 years. Don't want to deal with rotting posts or sagging headers later on, which is why steel appeals to me so much. I see so many people with pole barns on here, how old are they? At any point, do you wished you had went steel?
 
Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

AllGoNoShow said:
Your buddy who built the 40x50, did the 23k include the concrete or is that just the building?

Yes, that's what he said, $23k ground up, turn key. He said he found a deal in the insulation and bought it, then they installed the insulation when building it. I don't know if he included the cost of insulation in with the $23k he said it costed total, or if that's what the building costed total minus what he gave for the insulation. I wish I had taken pics now, most pole barns I see are on wide centers like Dirt Squirrel's, posts on 10' centers and trusses on 5' centers. But this one looked like the trusses were closer to gether and over all just looked like it was super sturdy for a pole barn. If I ever get back by over there, I will take pics of the inside of it. It's nice, he has a batting cage put up inside for his little girl, basketball goal, Jeep on 44's, all kinds of room.

I figure I should be able to get a pole barn built like my original plan for $20k or under. Need to get quotes on a pole barn to compare, I suppose.
 
TacomaJD said:
Yes, that's what he said, $23k ground up, turn key. He said he found a deal in the insulation and bought it, then they installed the insulation when building it. I don't know if he included the cost of insulation in with the $23k he said it costed total, or if that's what the building costed total minus what he gave for the insulation. I wish I had taken pics now, most pole barns I see are on wide centers like Dirt Squirrel's, posts on 10' centers and trusses on 5' centers. But this one looked like the trusses were closer to gether and over all just looked like it was super sturdy for a pole barn. If I ever get back by over there, I will take pics of the inside of it. It's nice, he has a batting cage put up inside for his little girl, basketball goal, Jeep on 44's, all kinds of room.

I figure I should be able to get a pole barn built like my original plan for $20k or under. Need to get quotes on a pole barn to compare, I suppose.

I built most of mine myself, so can't really offer much on cost input. Mine is pole barn with post 10' on center. I used 2x6's (purlin) spaced 2' OC on the walls with a 2x12 band at the top. On the sidewalls where the trusses site I doubled the 2x12 with the inner most being notched into the top of the post. My rafters are spaced 2' OC with 2x4's (purlin) spaced 2' OC on top of the trusses. A little overkill, but I ran across a good deal on some new 16' 2x6's and 2x12's and was able to get them cheaper then buying 10' 2x4's and 2x6's. By the time I finished I had a pile of 6' 2x6's and 2x12's for building work benches and other things so I lucked up on finding the deal and putting in the extra work of cutting them all to the 10' length I needed. Mine is only 3.5 years old, but no problems so far.

My dads pole barn has been up for 12+ years with no issues. His uses metal trusses with 2x6 purlins and his post are spaced 12' OC. If I remember correctly he used 2x4 purlins on the walls, but later framed out the inside. His was originally built to house alpacas and has been used for storage for the past 8-9 years. He is planning to change the door configurations to convert into more of a workshop for his welding tools and etc.
 
Yellowyj said:
I built most of mine myself, so can't really offer much on cost input. Mine is pole barn with post 10' on center. I used 2x6's (purlin) spaced 2' OC on the walls with a 2x12 band at the top. On the sidewalls where the trusses site I doubled the 2x12 with the inner most being notched into the top of the post. My rafters are spaced 2' OC with 2x4's (purlin) spaced 2' OC on top of the trusses. A little overkill, but I ran across a good deal on some new 16' 2x6's and 2x12's and was able to get them cheaper then buying 10' 2x4's and 2x6's. By the time I finished I had a pile of 6' 2x6's and 2x12's for building work benches and other things so I lucked up on finding the deal and putting in the extra work of cutting them all to the 10' length I needed. Mine is only 3.5 years old, but no problems so far.

My dads pole barn has been up for 12+ years with no issues. His uses metal trusses with 2x6 purlins and his post are spaced 12' OC. If I remember correctly he used 2x4 purlins on the walls, but later framed out the inside. His was originally built to house alpacas and has been used for storage for the past 8-9 years. He is planning to change the door configurations to convert into more of a workshop for his welding tools and etc.

Posts buried in the ground? The post base anchors with posts on top of concrete sounds like a sure way to avoid post-rot long term, but that seems like something that is uncommon with local builders. Going to sit down with my buddy that is a builder Sunday and try to figure up a quote on building pole barn style. He builds houses, framing up stud walls, and never done a pole barn building, but shouldn't be anything him/we can't figure out.
 
Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

TacomaJD said:
Yes, that's what he said, $23k ground up, turn key. He said he found a deal in the insulation and bought it, then they installed the insulation when building it. I don't know if he included the cost of insulation in with the $23k he said it costed total, or if that's what the building costed total minus what he gave for the insulation. I wish I had taken pics now, most pole barns I see are on wide centers like Dirt Squirrel's, posts on 10' centers and trusses on 5' centers. But this one looked like the trusses were closer to gether and over all just looked like it was super sturdy for a pole barn. If I ever get back by over there, I will take pics of the inside of it. It's nice, he has a batting cage put up inside for his little girl, basketball goal, Jeep on 44's, all kinds of room.

I figure I should be able to get a pole barn built like my original plan for $20k or under. Need to get quotes on a pole barn to compare, I suppose.

That's good info, guy is coming to give estimate on a 40x50 pole barn setup on Sunday. I am done working in an uninsulated metal coffin in the South Dakota winters.
 
Re:

I called the guy that built that 40x50 today for my buddy, but said he was out of office today, and left note for him to call me back. Gonna see what he would charge to build mine, if nothing more than to just have a price point to compare to others. At this point, I am pretty anti poles buried in the ground and that's how his 40x50 is.
 
40x60
14' sidewall
12' roll up doors
8' tall x 12' x40' storage loft
Usually park all my toys under the loft to free up floor space but storing stuff for family members under it now.
Few pics




 
Re:

Question, and my buddy is supposed to be checking into it to, but are those metal trusses cheaper than doing wood trusses? I know they can be spanned farther apart, so comparing costs of buying 5 of those metal trusses vs cost of say 13-15 wooden trusses, is there a big cost difference?
 
TacomaJD said:
Posts buried in the ground? The post base anchors with posts on top of concrete sounds like a sure way to avoid post-rot long term, but that seems like something that is uncommon with local builders. Going to sit down with my buddy that is a builder Sunday and try to figure up a quote on building pole barn style. He builds houses, framing up stud walls, and never done a pole barn building, but shouldn't be anything him/we can't figure out.

Yes, my post are buried in the ground with concrete around them. My dad's post are buried in the ground as well with concrete around them. No issues on any of the post so far and his have been buried for 12+ years. Both have concrete slabs inside with open graded stone below the slabs.

I priced mine with both metal trusses and wooden trusses, and didn't really find any notable difference between the two when I built mine. I went with wood trusses on mine as it suited my build better. I have added some plywood and 2x4's for storage of kayaks, ladders and etc. between/in my truss cavities. This was another reason I chose to space my trusses closer together and eventually plan to add a demising wall to separate mine into two spaces (one for woodworking and one for vehicle maintenance/storage and etc.). The demising wall will mainly be to help control dust, but will also offer support to the trusses by breaking up the span. The middle section of my trusses will allow for approximately 8' wide plywood floor with a peak height of about 6' +/- of additional storage.
 
Dad has several pole buildings on the farm that are 20+ years old with no issues.

just got to make sure you do the grade work half way right so water isn't pouring down around the posts (just like every other type of construction/foundation)


A steel building on a good slab is pretty badass and will last forever (minus tornadoes) though
 
TBItoy said:
Dad has several pole buildings on the farm that are 20+ years old with no issues.

just got to make sure you do the grade work half way right so water isn't pouring down around the posts (just like every other type of construction/foundation)


A steel building on a good slab is pretty badass and will last forever (minus tornadoes) though

Yep, steel would be titties, but right now, I think I am leaning toward pole barn style, posts on top of concrete via base anchors, metal trusses, insulated, metal siding/roof, 10' walls, tallest doors I can fit on gable end (9/10' tall), and might go original size of 30x40, if not, 30x36. Gotta get my buddy to calculate up what he could build it for and see. Went over there last night to get a copy of the land deed and shot the **** for a few hours, but never did sit down and figure any costs.
 
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