TacomaJD
I LIKE CHEAP STUFF.....
Re:
That a nice setup! Really like the big carport on the front.
That a nice setup! Really like the big carport on the front.
TacomaJD said:Got another qoute on an all steel building, same specs, from the guy that built my current shop. Other guy was at $26,100 for what I wanted, completely turn key from ground up. This guy quoted $22-23k and all I would have to do is get the dirt pad done, which would probably be around $1000-1200ish as a rough guess based on what my dirt man charged for my current dirt pad.
Shop specs
So he is a couple grand cheaper, but I am still wanting to stay at or under $20k total, so I have been looking at leaning out my design a little. Initially, 12' walls for the possibility of a lift in the future is not that big a deal to me, as previously discussed. But I want a little taller door than 8'. Not sure why really, doubt I will ever have a rig taller than an 8' door. Both my Toyota crawlers I had cleared my 8' door easily. So 10x10 doors apparently need 12' walls, or so I'm told (unless roof pitch is tweaked to accomodate), reckon I could get away with going 10' walls and 9' doors? Are 9'h x 10'w garage doors common (slide up on tracks, not rollup)? That would be the perfect size for what I'm wanting. That would save a little, then opt for a 30x36 size instead of 30x40, and not insulate the storage room to save further.
At 30x36, I could possibly turn the shop sideways and have a much different layout than previously planned, which may be better. In Googling shop pics, I ran across this 30 deep x 36 wide 3 bay shop and I do like it. Looks like it would be more than plenty. But this would void my idea of having a small carport on the right side of it facing the house, incorporated into the lean-to with the storage area. I guess then I would just close in the whole 36' width for storage area? Hmm....could put an entry door from inside shop going into storage room, put up partition in storage room, and use part of it as tool room / air compressor room. Just thinking out loud. Lots of different ways I could go about this.
My buddy just built a shop that he can back his rig in on the trailer and I know I'd be more than willing when I build a shop to spend a couple extra grand to be able to load it and leave it inside a day or more before I leave for a ride and to be able to back it in when I get home and don't feel like unloading because the weathers shitty or I'm just tired.blacksheep10 said:This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself
blacksheep10 said:This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself
TacomaJD said:That's pretty much what I'm looking to build. 30' wide, 40' deep, on a 40x40 pad so lean to is on concrete. But woild like to do half the lean to closed in. Like the back 20' of it be a closed in room for the ole lady's storage and a secluded air compressor, and the front 20' of it just open lean to for parking/grilling/chilling under. I could work with a 30x30, but already learned my lesson with building too small and I've always wanted space for a pool table. I want it 40' deep so I can put kind of a man cave in the back left corner, pool table, tv, cheap furniture and such, then do a smaller garage door on the back right corner so nothing gets blocked in.
Hoping to stay at or under $20k for concrete, pole barn style framing with 10' walls and high clearance open trusses/joists for possibly adding a lift later, insulation, and wiring.
A friend of mine had a guy build him a 40x50 pole barn 3 years ago, 14' walls with high clearance trusses, 2 big 12x12 roll up doors, and a 10' carport on one end for $23k total for all. So I figure I should be able to knock out what I am wanting for under $20k. I would go 12' walls, but I may never put a lift in, and I think it will just look too big where it will be at.
kmcminn said:I would get roll up doors. Regular garage doors block light when up.
blacksheep10 said:This your "for a long time" home? Are you going to do something you regret over 1 or 2 thousand dollars? I'd never go shorter, but I love my lift. Wouldn't trade it for anything. Tall doors, tall walls. Don't cheap out. you might get a camper when you have a baby, you might want to pull a rig on a trailer in a shop, don't limit yourself
AllGoNoShow said:Your buddy who built the 40x50, did the 23k include the concrete or is that just the building?
TacomaJD said:Yes, that's what he said, $23k ground up, turn key. He said he found a deal in the insulation and bought it, then they installed the insulation when building it. I don't know if he included the cost of insulation in with the $23k he said it costed total, or if that's what the building costed total minus what he gave for the insulation. I wish I had taken pics now, most pole barns I see are on wide centers like Dirt Squirrel's, posts on 10' centers and trusses on 5' centers. But this one looked like the trusses were closer to gether and over all just looked like it was super sturdy for a pole barn. If I ever get back by over there, I will take pics of the inside of it. It's nice, he has a batting cage put up inside for his little girl, basketball goal, Jeep on 44's, all kinds of room.
I figure I should be able to get a pole barn built like my original plan for $20k or under. Need to get quotes on a pole barn to compare, I suppose.
Yellowyj said:I built most of mine myself, so can't really offer much on cost input. Mine is pole barn with post 10' on center. I used 2x6's (purlin) spaced 2' OC on the walls with a 2x12 band at the top. On the sidewalls where the trusses site I doubled the 2x12 with the inner most being notched into the top of the post. My rafters are spaced 2' OC with 2x4's (purlin) spaced 2' OC on top of the trusses. A little overkill, but I ran across a good deal on some new 16' 2x6's and 2x12's and was able to get them cheaper then buying 10' 2x4's and 2x6's. By the time I finished I had a pile of 6' 2x6's and 2x12's for building work benches and other things so I lucked up on finding the deal and putting in the extra work of cutting them all to the 10' length I needed. Mine is only 3.5 years old, but no problems so far.
My dads pole barn has been up for 12+ years with no issues. His uses metal trusses with 2x6 purlins and his post are spaced 12' OC. If I remember correctly he used 2x4 purlins on the walls, but later framed out the inside. His was originally built to house alpacas and has been used for storage for the past 8-9 years. He is planning to change the door configurations to convert into more of a workshop for his welding tools and etc.
TacomaJD said:Yes, that's what he said, $23k ground up, turn key. He said he found a deal in the insulation and bought it, then they installed the insulation when building it. I don't know if he included the cost of insulation in with the $23k he said it costed total, or if that's what the building costed total minus what he gave for the insulation. I wish I had taken pics now, most pole barns I see are on wide centers like Dirt Squirrel's, posts on 10' centers and trusses on 5' centers. But this one looked like the trusses were closer to gether and over all just looked like it was super sturdy for a pole barn. If I ever get back by over there, I will take pics of the inside of it. It's nice, he has a batting cage put up inside for his little girl, basketball goal, Jeep on 44's, all kinds of room.
I figure I should be able to get a pole barn built like my original plan for $20k or under. Need to get quotes on a pole barn to compare, I suppose.
TacomaJD said:Posts buried in the ground? The post base anchors with posts on top of concrete sounds like a sure way to avoid post-rot long term, but that seems like something that is uncommon with local builders. Going to sit down with my buddy that is a builder Sunday and try to figure up a quote on building pole barn style. He builds houses, framing up stud walls, and never done a pole barn building, but shouldn't be anything him/we can't figure out.
TBItoy said:Dad has several pole buildings on the farm that are 20+ years old with no issues.
just got to make sure you do the grade work half way right so water isn't pouring down around the posts (just like every other type of construction/foundation)
A steel building on a good slab is pretty badass and will last forever (minus tornadoes) though