Pics of your shops/garages/specs

[slravenel]

24x24 is going to get tight real quick! If that is all you can fit, do yourself a favor and do one 16' door instead of 2 small ones. And go tall as you can.
Prices vary. Just depends on what all you end up with. My budget got blown up in a hurry on mine. Insurance money went fast.

I am used to a normal house garage, so it will seem pretty big to me laughing1

In city Atlanta houses don't have big ass yards and tons of land, so it is what it is...nothing I can do about it. Am definitely going to do one door, and 10 foot walls on top of a layer or two of block (or 12 foot walls with no block). I want to be able to fit a lift in down the road.

What are you guys paying for slabs usually? I can get a nice "building kit" online from one of the many steel building builders for like 9K with a lot of options, motorized roll up door, etc etc. I know it can be done cheaper - but the house is a completely renovated 1920's craftsman bungalow and I want the building to semi-match it. This company has one that does, and its a bit more than the other cheaper metal buildings.

Budgeting around 1500 or so for electrical too...220v, 6 LED lights, 7 power outlets. I would dig the trench and supply the lights... Am I way off base here?

 

[whiskeymakin]

I don't think that's too far off. Safe bet for finished concrete around here is about 5.25 a sq. Foot. That includes all the grading, forming, gravel, and finish work. I never got a completely itemized bill for all of mine but it was close to that I think.

 

[slravenel]

I don't think that's too far off. Safe bet for finished concrete around here is about 5.25 a sq. Foot. That includes all the grading, forming, gravel, and finish work. I never got a completely itemized bill for all of mine but it was close to that I think.

cool, yea I was estimating around $5k for a 26 x 24 (2 feet extra in the front of the doors) slab which is way over that; but I have heard tons of conflicting stories and prices of people ending up with 7,8,9k in slabs... which i cant see happening

 

[TacomaJD]

Re: Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

I know this is a loaded question...but how $ much do you have in your shop?

I bought a new house and am kinda limited by space...24x24 is about the biggest I can fit before I start needing to do some serious land work. City living.....

Anyway, it seems that yours is "basically" what I am looking for. No frills, metal building, roll up doors, (wired 220V?)

do you have any other pictures of the inside that you can share to get a general idea of how much space you have once things are in there?

Mine is only 20 wide, 24 deep, 10' walls.

Built 4 years ago.

Dirt pad costed $575, but another local asshat quoted $1000+.

Concrete costed $1500 total. Building was $5k and that included a heavy duty 3' entry door, 8x10 uninsulated garage door, and no insulation in building. They also installed an exhaust fan i had bought as well.

Gutters was $200.

Total I have right at $7500 in it.

I do not have it wired still, just one extension cord ran from the house to a multi outlet box. Pretty much it is wired with extension cords haha. I don't have any big **** to run so I never messed with hardwiring it.

Pics

 

[86chevota]

Footer and Block is the way to go

 

[CHASMAN9]

Footer and Block is the way to go

Why do you say a footer and block is better? Just asking for opinions sake. A monolithic slab is done all by one trade and is more economical than pouring a footing, buying the header blocks/ sand/ mortar and paying a mason to come build it and hopefully they pulled the strings right and lay the block straight. Then get your concrete crew to rake out the stone and pour into place. All this for a flat shop slab. I agree that on a step down footing(down a slope) that the block method is the only way to go, but if the grade is lessen like in JD's shop location picture, pour the whole thing monolithically and be done.

 

[junkyard dog]

Not to side track thread, but has anyone ever felt like they built a shop too big? I know it seems like a crazy ? But I'm looking at doing a 60*80 or a 60*100 with 20*60 on one end for living quarters.

 

[5onrocks]

Not to side track thread, but has anyone ever felt like they built a shop too big? I know it seems like a crazy ? But I'm looking at doing a 60*80 or a 60*100 with 20*60 on one end for living quarters.

Not at all. I moved in to my new shop a few months ago. I thought I would have all of the room in the world and now I wish I had more room.

One thing that I would suggest is have a different fabrication area than storage and normal mechanical work. Metal fab work creates a lot of dust.

 

[TacomaJD]

Not to side track thread, but has anyone ever felt like they built a shop too big? I know it seems like a crazy ? But I'm looking at doing a 60*80 or a 60*100 with 20*60 on one end for living quarters.

That's like too much money, there's no such thing. A girl too pretty, with too much class. Being too lucky or a car too fast.

 

[whiskeymakin]

I believe, for a metal building, like jd had pictured is fine on a slab with no footers or block.
Now, stick framed, walls finished, shingled roof and some brick with elevation changes, footer and block all the way...

 

[TBItoy]

Not at all. I moved in to my new shop a few months ago. I thought I would have all of the room in the world and now I wish I had more room.

One thing that I would suggest is have a different fabrication area than storage and normal mechanical work. Metal fab work creates a lot of dust.

This x10 after living in a shop house for 8 years or so.

I used to do a lot of metal fab inside the shop. Now I try to do all my plasmacutting and heavy grinding outside.

 

[ROKTOY829]

Re:

What about power? Did yall just have another meter base or tap into the house panel?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[jccarter1]

400 amp meter base with two 200 amp disconnects one for house one for shop it will save you at least 20 a month bc they will only charge you for one service and some places will make your secondary service a commercial account which is higher connection charge

 

[TBItoy]

Re:

What about power? Did yall just have another meter base or tap into the house panel?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Mines one building

200amp service, ran a 100 amp breaker in main panel to feed a satellite panel in the shop side.

 

[junkyard dog]

I try to do all the grinding and messing making stuff outside now mainly to keep shop cleaner and machining equipment in good shape. But I'm looking at the heated space. Also it's not gonna be for storage,but as an actual shop. A home shop but still a shop. I'm looking at doing a lean-to down the back wall also

 

[86chevota]

Why do you say a footer and block is better? Just asking for opinions sake. A monolithic slab is done all by one trade and is more economical than pouring a footing, buying the header blocks/ sand/ mortar and paying a mason to come build it and hopefully they pulled the strings right and lay the block straight. Then get your concrete crew to rake out the stone and pour into place. All this for a flat shop slab. I agree that on a step down footing(down a slope) that the block method is the only way to go, but if the grade is lessen like in JD's shop location picture, pour the whole thing monolithically and be done.


It's stronger

 

[TacomaJD]

What about heat? How are y'all heating your shops and is there a better form of heat that you wish you had? I'm thinking just doing a standard wood stove. Having a gas heater on thermostat would be cool, but seems like that would cost way more out the gate. Plus I love standing around a good hot wood heater anyways.

 

[TBItoy]

I use a forced air propane turbo heater to get the temp up, then a small propane to maintain.

I have a wood stove that I need to install.

Insulate the **** out of it and it doesn't take much to heat.

 

[ibrokeit]

Why do you say a footer and block is better? Just asking for opinions sake. A monolithic slab is done all by one trade and is more economical than pouring a footing, buying the header blocks/ sand/ mortar and paying a mason to come build it and hopefully they pulled the strings right and lay the block straight. Then get your concrete crew to rake out the stone and pour into place. All this for a flat shop slab. I agree that on a step down footing(down a slope) that the block method is the only way to go, but if the grade is lessen like in JD's shop location picture, pour the whole thing monolithically and be done.


It's stronger

Can you give me some back up that it's stronger? Because we pour mono 30,000sf PEMB slabs weekly. I bid a $500,000 one yesterday and a $600,000 one today. Both 2 story PEMBs.

 

[CHASMAN9]

Can you give me some back up that it's stronger? Because we pour mono 30,000sf PEMB slabs weekly. I bid a $500,000 one yesterday and a $600,000 one today. Both 2 story PEMBs.

Agreed, I've got over 36 years in building experience with everything from a custom single story Dog run to a $21m 2600 Highland rd condo's and want to understand what I have been doing wrong all this time? A concrete block has a much higher chance of freezing and cracking due to it's porous nature whereas a well poured monolithic slab will not have the same properties. Type S mortar has a psi of approximately 1500 and the block has a 1900 psi breaking strength whereas concrete has a 3000-3500 psi breaking strength and cures all at the same rate. Now if you introduce Calcium into the mix, it will harden faster in cold weather but also has a higher chance of cracking. To help alleviate that, you can add fibermesh which is fiberglass strands that are added into the mix to help strengthen the slab after it has been cured. I could be wrong on this, but possibly not.