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Pics of your shops/garages/specs

Marty said:
JD- heres a pic of my columns on my Morton building. Concrete gets poured later on just like a normal pole barn but with no wood in the ground. Also morton uses 3 2x6 boards together instead of a 6x6. 6x6 tend to twist and bow and do weird ****.
IMG_2208_zpszhwujbuk.jpg

That's cool, definitely a lot of structural building methods out there I wasn't familiar with!
 
That's a nice pad. You wouldn't by chance know Kyle Voss do you?

Molly Hatchet said:
Bought an old lake house built in 1973. After updating inside for the boss. I added on a 60x40x12 shop, carport, and front porch. Lord willing it will be the last place I ever live.
 
Molly Hatchet said:
Bought an old lake house built in 1973. After updating inside for the boss. I added on a 60x40x12 shop, carport, and front porch. Lord willing it will be the last place I ever live.

Damn! That shop looks like its 2x the size of the house :o They both look nice!
 
74_Chevota said:
New pole barn shop I am building.

40x50 with a mancave, bathroom (full bath), wood shop and 35x40 garage area. Lean-to on the outside is 12'x40'.

Hopefully the last one i will need for a long time.


That looks awesome! I've been working out of a 2 car garage so long I wouldn't know what to do with all that space, but Id take it!
 
Yes the shop is bigger than the footprint of the house. I told the wife the dimensions but she didn't really know what that meant until we poured the floor lol. Build it twice as big is what you need if possible is my advice.

DirtMonkey said:
Damn! That shop looks like its 2x the size of the house :o They both look nice!
 
I've been pondering a few ideas / numbers. I haven't priced out at local builders supply places, but at Lowes, a pressure treated 10' 2x6 is about $6, and a 10' severe weather pressure treated 6x6 is $31. So as for using 3 2x6's screwed together instead of 6x6 posts, that would generate an easy savings of over $300 just on posts, plus if they work better than 6x6's (less twisting/warping/etc), that would be a win/win.

I'm really thinking heavy on the rotting factor. Looks like some builders use a wrap that they wrap the bottoms of the 6x6 with before burying it. I like the stability factor of the posts being in the ground, but it seems longevity would be achieved easier by using the Simpson strong-tie base plates and just doing the posts on top of the concrete like JPfan did. Then there is the question of the price difference to have a floating pad built to now support load bearing walls. It's difficult to weigh all this out. Of course, if money wasn't an option, I would just go full metal beams and perlins...and I plan on getting a quote for that as well just to compare. If it's close, I may go that route so longevity is gauranteed and just screw up some wood inside later to have versatility on the interior walls.
 
I'm no lumber expert but it's been explained to me that one benefit of using
The 3 2x6 glued and screwed together is that the whole post is treated whereas
A 6x6 post the center isn't treated. You definitely would want direct contact treated
Lumber at least
 
I just got off the phone with a metal building builder, like beams and perlins, and told him what I wanted so he could give me a quote. I will compare that to the pole barn costs for the same exact thing (gotta call the pole barn builder next), and will report back with quotes.
 
I would ask for quotes with the fiberglass white backing insulation I know some places here wanted to sell me the double bubble stuff but I think this other is much better
 
jp fan said:
I would ask for quotes with the fiberglass white backing insulation I know some places here wanted to sell me the double bubble stuff but I think this other is much better

The guy I called has built 3 big shops for 3 of my friends and uses that standard white roll insulation that I've seen in most metal buildings, including my work. I ain't really sure what it's composed of. My current shop is not insulated, so I'm green in that area as well.
 
Went over to the house we are buying and measured off where the shop will be, 30x40 with 12' wide lean-to/room is going to fit perfectly within the landline/house. Can't wait to move in over there, gonna be much more peaceful than where I currently live. Awesome view over the field behind. Shop is gonna be right there at the head of the driveway.

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Very nice piece of property. You won't be disappointed with that size shop and having covered space outside also. The biggest challenge is keeping it organized.
 
Re:

Thanks! It looks like there may be about a foot of fall from where the front of the shop will be to the back. So I imagine it will still require a fair amount of dirt to be brought in for a 40x42 pad, but at least it won't have to be built up real high like my current one.
 
jp fan said:
I would ask for quotes with the fiberglass white backing insulation I know some places here wanted to sell me the double bubble stuff but I think this other is much better

X2

Bubble wrap sucks especially if you leave it exposed. It's not UV resistant so light from welding deteriorates it. Mine is literally falling off the ceiling in the garage. I'm going back and putting the white vinyl backed fiberglass between the trusses.

Always insulate the ceiling at least!

.
.
 
TBItoy said:
X2

Bubble wrap sucks especially if you leave it exposed. It's not UV resistant so light from welding deteriorates it. Mine is literally falling off the ceiling in the garage. I'm going back and putting the white vinyl backed fiberglass between the trusses.

Always insulate the ceiling at least!

.
.


I know nothing about building or insulation. So here's my dumb question....if using the white backed stuff, do you put something like plastic down first? My shop only has some blue sheets on the ceiling nothing on walls. The barn is about 10yrs old and in the last year I've found 3 spots on the wall that leaked during rain. Took screws out, siliconed, reinstalled and it's fine. I'm just wondering in a case where you have a leak, how do you avoid the insulation soaking it up and molding? Maybe mine was done buy a shitty builder and it's not a common issue??
 
Re:

What is this fiberglass stuff? Link to it? Is it expensive compared to standard rolled white insulation? Is that what you are calling bubble pack?
 

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