Pics of your shops/garages/specs

[TBItoy]

Re:

Their are some decent battery powered leaf blowers out now that would work good for shop clean out. Been thinking about getting one just for that as I don't have leaves

 

[blacksheep10]

Josh, A lift isn't in the way, pretty much ever. Place it strategically, you can pull through, park in it, or lift something, put it on the stops and have all the floor space still available up to about 6'. My shop is 16' eaves and I'd say when I build again, I'll do that again. An overhead hoist is a must for me though. After you have one, you'll never not have one (even a hand pulled gantry and trolley like mine. Amazing)

 

[grcthird]

Guess I should post some pics of my shop now that I've been in it for a year and a half. 50x50, 14x28 is office space, although that could be smaller since I don't really need the back office, small bathroom in the corner, wish it was in the back office area but that's part of renting a space instead of building the way you want it. Also wish it had more than just one 12x12 door, the space immediately inside the door is useless since you basically have to drive through it to get cars in and out. That's probably not a big deal for you guys working on your own stuff.

 

[grcthird]

My father in law does hvac so he came across the AC unit used and we put it in, it's really too small and can't keep up on really hot days but it still is nice to have some cool air and it cuts the humidity down. I like having the high pitch roof, there is enough room for a second story if you wanted a garage condo type of space. I plumbed all the air lines with the max air 3/4 kit from northern tool in one afternoon, and I have a hose reel on each lift and another drop by the press since it is air operated. I will probably add another line over to the door to air up tires outside and I really need a drop for the tire machine. We used a contactor for the compressor motor power that is energized by the pressure switch.

A couple of things I would change, there are no skylights and only a small window in the office, if I were to build one it would get some windows up high to let light in and so I could see when it's getting dark so I know to go my ass home, not uncommon for me to look up from working and it be 10 or 11 at night in the winter. Low ceiling office space would get moved to a lean to addition in the parking lot so as to not take up space where a lift (or 2 in my case) could go under the high roof, more outside doors would be better for how I use mine. Future stuff I want, a BIG ASS fan because it gets stupid hot in the summer, and a good floor coating in a light gray to reflect some light back up under the cars, the 6 metal halide lights are good for overall lighting, but get under a car with the big door closed on a cold day or at night, and it's just plain dark under there.

I love this place and my wife has consistently ask when I'm coming home. :****: Eric and Rusty were a huge help getting some stuff done when I first set it up.

 

[jwilson645]

That's a NICE shop, J.

 

[blacksheep10]

Other stuff. I have big doors on the East and West ends that I open to get airflow, but the 5'x5' door in teh peak of the East end lets more AC through than anything. The spray foam roof insulation makes it 20* cooler in the summer I'd swear

 

[TacomaJD]

Found these pics below on Garage Journal. This is pretty much what I want, with half the lean to closed in for a storage room. The storage room would be 10x20, 200 sq ft. Showed that to the ole lady and she thinks she needs more storage than that so we may run into a problem haha. I know what she has to store and I don't see her needing anymore than that, plus the only thing that will be in the garage on the house is my bike, she can have the rest of it for storage too. She's more hard headed than I am when if comes to these kind of things lol. I ain't really sure how to build more storage without being overkill or looking out of place, maybe another 10x30 room on the back? Idk yet.

But this is ideally what I want. The first one has 12' walls studded up with scissor trusses, so mine would probably have 10' walls with scissor trusses.

And these are just some more I have come across like what i want.

And here is one in town, but best I can measure looking at it in these pics, it looks like a 30x30. Lean to's on side and rear. The upstairs bonus room for storage would be great, but that would cut out the scissor truss 10' wall idea. And most of what she needs to store is big heavy stuff like furniture and such that belonged to her dad.

 

[TacomaJD]

After thinking about the fact that she needs more storage, I wonder if instead of building a 30x40 then two external rooms onto it, if it would be cheaper or at the very least around the same price but simpler, to just do something like a 30x50 or even a 40x50 and then frame up a room on the inside of it for her. But that gets back to really being a bit overbearing looking on the property. I also have a 10x12 storage building on my property at my current house we could move over there too that she could have, but I had rather not have a yard full of structures. But if that works out to be the easiest route, I may do that and kind of hide it behind the house so that it is not visible from the road.

 

[Zjman]

Damn dude you need to change ur screen name to googlejd the way u research. Lol. But seriously I'm going to be looking at building a shop next year and I'm thinking of going all metal on a concrete slab, anyone have any experience with these, I'm planing on the 24x41x11 with 3 10x10 doors. I can be in it for less than 15 grand and that's electric and all. http://www.carolinametalcarports.com/northern-garage-packages.html


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[grcthird]

I believe that's who we used to setup a 30x35 for us a few years ago. It was installed over a asphalt parking lot and we used it for a warehouse, one 10x10 door and a man door was like 12k, 2 guys set it up in two days. They are a pretty well built building for being an enclosed carport structure, just loud as hell when it rained because there was no insulation in it. They can be finished out pretty nice on the inside, we ran 20 GA hat channel horizontally and screwed osb to it on the inside walls.

 

[TacomaJD]

Damn dude you need to change ur screen name to googlejd the way u research. Lol. But seriously I'm going to be looking at building a shop next year and I'm thinking of going all metal on a concrete slab, anyone have any experience with these, I'm planing on the 24x41x11 with 3 10x10 doors. I can be in it for less than 15 grand and that's electric and all. http://www.carolinametalcarports.com/northern-garage-packages.html


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I personally am not a fan of the metal tubing structure. If I were going all metal, I would definitely go beams and perlins. I even went all perlin construction on my small 20x24 shop I have now instead of metal tube frame. But I sometimes like to overdo stuff and this may be one of those instances. They may not be as bad as the preconceived notion I have about them. I had a builder tell me one time that the tubing is prone to cracking over time from little movement from wind and such. You'll never have an issue out of beams and perlins. Costs more, but everything that's better costs more. I like the idea of all metal and I've enjoyed mine being all metal, but I believe I want a wood structure on the next one, much more versatility on interior walls.

Going back to concrete talk, I just realized a pro from framing up pole barn style over stud wall or metal construction. With pole parn the weight of the structure is on the poles, not the concrete, eliminating the need to pour a drop footer (deeper concrete around perimeter). But, if I decided to put a small lift in later, and only have a 4" pad poured, how would I go about supporting the lift? Have to cut up the concrete in the spots the posts would be mounted, dig deeper and pour deep concrete there?

 

[Dirt700]

I personally am not a fan of the metal tubing structure. If I were going all metal, I would definitely go beams and perlins. I even went all perlin construction on my small 20x24 shop I have now instead of metal tube frame. But I sometimes like to overdo stuff and this may be one of those instances. They may not be as bad as the preconceived notion I have about them. I had a builder tell me one time that the tubing is prone to cracking over time from little movement from wind and such. You'll never have an issue out of beams and perlins. Costs more, but everything that's better costs more. I like the idea of all metal and I've enjoyed mine being all metal, but I believe I want a wood structure on the next one, much more versatility on interior walls.

Going back to concrete talk, I just realized a pro from framing up pole barn style over stud wall or metal construction. With pole parn the weight of the structure is on the poles, not the concrete, eliminating the need to pour a drop footer (deeper concrete around perimeter). But, if I decided to put a small lift in later, and only have a 4" pad poured, how would I go about supporting the lift? Have to cut up the concrete in the spots the posts would be mounted, dig deeper and pour deep concrete there?

My footer is only about 6-8 inches wide, and 3-4 inches deep. My buddy has a lift in his shop, he measured out where he was going to put it after the forms were up. Then dug out so that there is probably close to 12 inches of concrete where the feet of the lift are. I know it's not always possible to do that, and I have seen people cut out where the feet will be and dig deeper and repour in those areas

 

[Yellowyj]

I personally am not a fan of the metal tubing structure. If I were going all metal, I would definitely go beams and perlins. I even went all perlin construction on my small 20x24 shop I have now instead of metal tube frame. But I sometimes like to overdo stuff and this may be one of those instances. They may not be as bad as the preconceived notion I have about them. I had a builder tell me one time that the tubing is prone to cracking over time from little movement from wind and such. You'll never have an issue out of beams and perlins. Costs more, but everything that's better costs more. I like the idea of all metal and I've enjoyed mine being all metal, but I believe I want a wood structure on the next one, much more versatility on interior walls.

Going back to concrete talk, I just realized a pro from framing up pole barn style over stud wall or metal construction. With pole barn the weight of the structure is on the poles, not the concrete, eliminating the need to pour a drop footer (deeper concrete around perimeter). But, if I decided to put a small lift in later, and only have a 4" pad poured, how would I go about supporting the lift? Have to cut up the concrete in the spots the posts would be mounted, dig deeper and pour deep concrete there?

When I built my pole barn style shop I used 2x6's to form the slab so I have a 5.5" thick slab instead of the 4" because I wanted a little thicker slab. I also installed welded wire mesh in my slab just for peace of mind. Some areas the grade was left down a little so I have some thicker areas of the slab as well. With careful planning you strategically place thicker sections of slab in areas where you wanted to install a lift later on for very little extra money on the front end. The cost difference for me to go to a thicker slab was minimal and only the cost of the concrete as the cost of placement and finishing was already paid for with either slab thickness. My shop is a 40x30 due to the limited depth of where I placed it in our backyard.

I had a patio poured a couple years ago that my wife eventually wants to cover, so I dug out a foot everywhere I would eventually want to set a post to thicken the slab in a 2 foot by 2 foot area for the post to sit on. The cost of the concrete was cheap and the placement and finishing was already paid for. In the future I can drill and epoxy in an anchor for the post easily.

 

[TacomaJD]

When I built my pole barn style shop I used 2x6's to form the slab so I have a 5.5" thick slab instead of the 4" because I wanted a little thicker slab. I also installed welded wire mesh in my slab just for peace of mind. Some areas the grade was left down a little so I have some thicker areas of the slab as well. With careful planning you strategically place thicker sections of slab in areas where you wanted to install a lift later on for very little extra money on the front end. The cost difference for me to go to a thicker slab was minimal and only the cost of the concrete as the cost of placement and finishing was already paid for with either slab thickness. My shop is a 40x30 due to the limited depth of where I placed it in our backyard.

I had a patio poured a couple years ago that my wife eventually wants to cover, so I dug out a foot everywhere I would eventually want to set a post to thicken the slab in a 2 foot by 2 foot area for the post to sit on. The cost of the concrete was cheap and the placement and finishing was already paid for. In the future I can drill and epoxy in an anchor for the post easily.

Where I will be building is pretty flat, so my thinking was with a pole barn style, there could possibly be no need to have to pay the concrete man to dig a footer, maybe just form up around the poles after they are set and start pouring. I will get more advice on what to do when it actually gets time to talk to concrete finishers and getting quotes though. My pad in my small shop now is just concrete with the fiber mix, 4" pad, but 6" drop footer. No wire or steel rebar or anything in any of it. Only plastic moisture barrier. But I will definitely seek input this go round for adding some sort of metal wire / chicken wire, whatever, to it before pouring.

 

[grcthird]

I like the idea of all metal and I've enjoyed mine being all metal, but I believe I want a wood structure on the next one, much more versatility on interior walls.

Nothing to framing the inside of one up, if you want wood just have to run the 2x4 studs under the wall purlin and run your metal, drywall, osb, whatever past the edge of the purlin. I've built tons of walls around them when I was in construction. That also leaves several inches to run electrical, plumbing, air lines ect in the wall as well as more insulation around office, storage, living spaces. My shop now is this way and has 8 foot metal panels around the exterior walls.

 

[rpf500]

My input is to put a tall door on whatever you build. I have a 30x50 and the center door is tall enough for my trailer and jeep to go in. We leave early morning hours for many of our trips due to distance from you all. Being able to load the night before and wake up and drive away to me has been awesome. Loading up at.3 AM was not my thing. Had I built this barn, I'd move the door to the left or right though so you weren't right in the middle of everything once you park. Also nice when coming back home and it's raining so you can unload inside.

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

I like that idea. But hell I load up and leave mine outside now anyways lol. I think I would struggle with only one door. I'm definitely planning on two, maybe 10x10. I have a 10 wode and 8 tall now and 10 tall wpuld definitely work better.

 

[Zjman]

I personally am not a fan of the metal tubing structure. If I were going all metal, I would definitely go beams and perlins. I even went all perlin construction on my small 20x24 shop I have now instead of metal tube frame. But I sometimes like to overdo stuff and this may be one of those instances. They may not be as bad as the preconceived notion I have about them. I had a builder tell me one time that the tubing is prone to cracking over time from little movement from wind and such. You'll never have an issue out of beams and perlins. Costs more, but everything that's better costs more. I like the idea of all metal and I've enjoyed mine being all metal, but I believe I want a wood structure on the next one, much more versatility on interior walls.

Going back to concrete talk, I just realized a pro from framing up pole barn style over stud wall or metal construction. With pole parn the weight of the structure is on the poles, not the concrete, eliminating the need to pour a drop footer (deeper concrete around perimeter). But, if I decided to put a small lift in later, and only have a 4" pad poured, how would I go about supporting the lift? Have to cut up the concrete in the spots the posts would be mounted, dig deeper and pour deep concrete there?

Almost all the new commercial buildings are built with metal studs and and they support a ton of weight plus the drywall is fastened directly to it so I'd say the boxed all metal should be fine, they actually build these now certified to certain restrictions like high wind and heavy snow, he'll right now I'd be happy with a shanty.


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[crawler 129]

Anyone else have a Quonset building ? Ideas on making the most of space against the wall . It's 40x100 .


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[ibrokeit]

Where I will be building is pretty flat, so my thinking was with a pole barn style, there could possibly be no need to have to pay the concrete man to dig a footer, maybe just form up around the poles after they are set and start pouring. I will get more advice on what to do when it actually gets time to talk to concrete finishers and getting quotes though. My pad in my small shop now is just concrete with the fiber mix, 4" pad, but 6" drop footer. No wire or steel rebar or anything in any of it. Only plastic moisture barrier. But I will definitely seek input this go round for adding some sort of metal wire / chicken wire, whatever, to it before pouring.

I'm planning on doing a pole barn next year. Being in the concrete business should help me out a ton. A footer isn't necessary at all with a polar barn, but thicken it up at your drive through door. I'd do 8" thick 1' wide from slab edge. It's cheap insurance to keep the slab from busting where you drive in and out.

I plan on forming with a 2x6 (5.5" slab) and digging another 3" deep 1' off he slab edge all the way around just for fun. Poly and wire.