Pics of your shops/garages/specs

[rpf500]

Re:

What is this fiberglass stuff? Link to it? Is it expensive compared to standard rolled white insulation? Is that what you are calling bubble pack?

I had to look as.well. I'm assuming this stuff.

https://www.lthsteelstructures.com/insulation

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

That's what I was talking about as white rolled up insulation. Just figured it was the standard.

 

[BigwoolyD]

Went over to the house we are buying and measured off where the shop will be, 30x40 with 12' wide lean-to/room is going to fit perfectly within the landline/house. Can't wait to move in over there, gonna be much more peaceful than where I currently live. Awesome view over the field behind. Shop is gonna be right there at the head of the driveway.

To give you a perspective on your planned garage here are some photos of my 30x40 garage with a 40x12 overhang I finished this summer

 

[TBItoy]

Re:

I had to look as.well. I'm assuming this stuff.

https://www.lthsteelstructures.com/insulation

Yes that is what you want.

There are different backings available for different uses. Even really tough stuff that feels like a punching bag. The standard/cheapest feels about like a real good trash bag

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

Gotcha. My buddy was saying if he were gonna build a shop there before they decided to sell, he was gonna pour a footer and lay 2 courses of 8" block, then fill in with gravel and pour the concrete. My initial thought was just to have dirt brought in, level out, drive on it a bunch to compact it, then pour a "floating pad". But it would be nice to have the block laid to prevent any sort of undermining to the pad and definitely easier to mow around, just less maintenance overall. Hmm...I can lay the block myself, done that in tech school, and he could pour the footer (while I learn how to pour said footer too.) Thoughts?

 

[ibrokeit]

Gotcha. My buddy was saying if he were gonna build a shop there before they decided to sell, he was gonna pour a footer and lay 2 courses of 8" block, then fill in with gravel and pour the concrete. My initial thought was just to have dirt brought in, level out, drive on it a bunch to compact it, then pour a "floating pad". But it would be nice to have the block laid to prevent any sort of undermining to the pad and definitely easier to mow around, just less maintenance overall. Hmm...I can lay the block myself, done that in tech school, and he could pour the footer (while I learn how to pour said footer too.) Thoughts?

Depends on the grade where you want the shop and the elevation you want the shop at.

 

[TBItoy]

Re:

Gotcha. My buddy was saying if he were gonna build a shop there before they decided to sell, he was gonna pour a footer and lay 2 courses of 8" block, then fill in with gravel and pour the concrete. My initial thought was just to have dirt brought in, level out, drive on it a bunch to compact it, then pour a "floating pad". But it would be nice to have the block laid to prevent any sort of undermining to the pad and definitely easier to mow around, just less maintenance overall. Hmm...I can lay the block myself, done that in tech school, and he could pour the footer (while I learn how to pour said footer too.) Thoughts?

If you got the time, means, and money to pour a footer and a couple runs of block I'd definitely do that.

The only reason people build pole barns is that it's quick easy and cheap if your lot doesn't need much work.

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

If you got the time, means, and money to pour a footer and a couple runs of block I'd definitely do that.

The only reason people build pole barns is that it's quick easy and cheap if your lot doesn't need much work.

He said it probably would cost me but about $3-400 for him to dig and pour the footer then all I'd have to do was buy block, quickrete, find an old wheelbarrow and buy a new trowel. Working at a snail's pace regaining the feel for it, I could probably lay it in a day or two. It's been probably 10 years since I layed my last 8" splitface block in a retaining wall I built for my aunt. The footer would have a step up on each side to accommodate for the change in elevation, so the front half of it would only have one course. Just thinking out loud here. Definitely something I'll need to ponder more. Sure is easy to call my neighbor that owns a bunch of dumptrucks and tell him to bring me some dirt. Lol.

 

[ibrokeit]

He said it probably would cost me but about $3-400 for him to dig and pour the footer then all I'd have to do was buy block, quickrete, find an old wheelbarrow and buy a new trowel. Working at a snail's pace regaining the feel for it, I could probably lay it in a day or two. It's been probably 10 years since I layed my last 8" splitface block in a retaining wall I built for my aunt. The footer would have a step up on each side to accommodate for the change in elevation, so the front half of it would only have one course. Just thinking out loud here. Definitely something I'll need to ponder more. Sure is easy to call my neighbor that owns a bunch of dumptrucks and tell him to bring me some dirt. Lol.

Plus concrete. And there is a lot more to it than dumping dirt out of a dump truck. It really depends on the grade weather you want to do a mono slab or footer and block.

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

Elaborate? How does grade dictate in this scenario? I posted pics of the spot the shop will land on. I'm not building on the side of a mountain, so both a dirt pad and blockwork could suffice. I would think it would simply come down to a decision between cost and cosmetics.

And I understand there's more to it than dumping a load of dirt and pouring a pad on top, this won't be the first shop I have built lol. The point I was making was the difference in prep before concrete between dirt pad and blockwork is that blockwork would require a lot of work on my end to lay the block. A dirt pad would not, as I am not capable of doing any of the work required to go that route, thus the ease of calling my neighbor to bring some dirt and a dozer over. Then, after it settles and is compacted enough, the drop footers for the concrete would be dug by whoever I sub out to do the concrete, along with placing gravel bed and plastic moisture barrier.

BUT...a dug drop footer for concrete pad may not even be necessary. I had a dirt pad built for my current shop, then called the concrete guy, he formed up with 2x6's, then layed a gravel bed in the middle up to about 1 foot away from the form boards, so the pad is roughly 5.5" thick around the perimeter effectively creating a drop footer without the need to dig, while it is probably closer to 4" thick throughout the rest of the pad on top of the gravel bed.

 

[blacksheep10]

Do you guys have lime screenings down there? The big pile of dust left over at the crusher from making clean rock? Put your pad on a foot of that. Less compaction needed to make it right than there is on a dirt pad. If is as skinny as it gets. It doesn't grow and shrink with weather/moisture changes, and therefore it doesn't let your floor explode. With dirt you need real compaction of proper material in appropriate sized lifts. If you just dump a load of whatever dirt you got for free from a haul off job and strike it off smooth, your pad won't last a couple years. Get screenings, put in 6" at a time, smooth off with a skid steer and make it a swimming pool, walk it in with the tires, do second lift, wet again, let it dry for a bit, walk it in, ready for steel when mostly dry.

 

[TacomaJD]

I'm sure we do. The dirt I used.for my current pad has done well. He said it was a thicker dirt that came from 10-15 feet down, better than chert because it packs good AND you can grow grass on it if desired and you dont have cheet rocks rolling off in the yard. Wouldn't have mattered anyway, I covered up all that was left exposed with oversize gravel. He packed it down driving over it with the dumptruck, then I wet it down good every day for a couole weeks and always parked my truck on it.

 

[TBItoy]

Do you guys have lime screenings down there? The big pile of dust left over at the crusher from making clean rock? Put your pad on a foot of that. Less compaction needed to make it right than there is on a dirt pad. If is as skinny as it gets. It doesn't grow and shrink with weather/moisture changes, and therefore it doesn't let your floor explode. With dirt you need real compaction of proper material in appropriate sized lifts. If you just dump a load of whatever dirt you got for free from a haul off job and strike it off smooth, your pad won't last a couple years. Get screenings, put in 6" at a time, smooth off with a skid steer and make it a swimming pool, walk it in with the tires, do second lift, wet again, let it dry for a bit, walk it in, ready for steel when mostly dry.

I think we call that "crusher run" ? or maybe that is different. Crusher run is like 1/2 powder 1/2 small rock. packs and sits up hard.

 

[Zjman]

We call that berm dust up here, odot uses it to make shoulders on highways, I've had buddies use it as fill in garages, gotta wet it real good and run one of those hand held gas powered vibrator compactors, it dries like concrete


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[DirtMonkey]

Went over to the house we are buying and measured off where the shop will be, 30x40 with 12' wide lean-to/room is going to fit perfectly within the landline/house. Can't wait to move in over there, gonna be much more peaceful than where I currently live. Awesome view over the field behind. Shop is gonna be right there at the head of the driveway.

That looks like a nice piece of land.

 

[blacksheep10]

I think we call that "crusher run" ? or maybe that is different. Crusher run is like 1/2 powder 1/2 small rock. packs and sits up hard.

Yes, that is like X minus, so maybe you get 3" crusher run, meaning anything that falls through the 3" grizzly bars goes in that pile. It does set up well because all the dust is left in it. There is also larger rock in it so it can cost more. Dust is also quite hard once set, and is a waste/byproduct that they sell reasonably. The trucking is generally waaaaay more than the material
Screenings/fines/dust/etc is anything washed off clean rock/screened out of crushed rock, dust etc. It sets up ****ing hard and never moves thereafter provided what you put it on isn't going to just absolutely go away. A vibraplate is great for compaction on it if there is any moisture in it

 

[ROKTOY829]

Re:

Heard sand will do the same thing. Idk whats yall thoughts on it.

My bad, thats in the footer, i was thinking about.

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[TacomaJD]

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

That looks like a nice piece of land.

Thanks man, we are excited as hell. I'm growing impatient too. Lol.

And yes, my driveway is crusher run

 

[slravenel]

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

Thanks man, we are excited as hell. I'm growing impatient too. Lol.

And yes, my driveway is crusher run

I know this is a loaded question...but how $ much do you have in your shop?

I bought a new house and am kinda limited by space...24x24 is about the biggest I can fit before I start needing to do some serious land work. City living.....

Anyway, it seems that yours is "basically" what I am looking for. No frills, metal building, roll up doors, (wired 220V?)

do you have any other pictures of the inside that you can share to get a general idea of how much space you have once things are in there?

 

[whiskeymakin]

24x24 is going to get tight real quick! If that is all you can fit, do yourself a favor and do one 16' door instead of 2 small ones. And go tall as you can.
Prices vary. Just depends on what all you end up with. My budget got blown up in a hurry on mine. Insurance money went fast.