Pics of your shops/garages/specs

[ibrokeit]

We only run calcium when it's too cold to cure on it's on. Sitting in my truck right now and it's 36 degrees. Were pouring a few jobs this morning and I think running 1% non chloride in all of it.

 

[CHASMAN9]

We only run calcium when it's too cold to cure on it's on. Sitting in my truck right now and it's 36 degrees. Were pouring a few jobs this morning and I think running 1% non chloride in all of it.

Stay warm, the only thing colder is a well diggers ass in January sir. Pour on!

 

[86chevota]

Agreed, I've got over 36 years in building experience with everything from a custom single story Dog run to a $21m 2600 Highland rd condo's and want to understand what I have been doing wrong all this time? A concrete block has a much higher chance of freezing and cracking due to it's porous nature whereas a well poured monolithic slab will not have the same properties. Type S mortar has a psi of approximately 1500 and the block has a 1900 psi breaking strength whereas concrete has a 3000-3500 psi breaking strength and cures all at the same rate. Now if you introduce Calcium into the mix, it will harden faster in cold weather but also has a higher chance of cracking. To help alleviate that, you can add fibermesh which is fiberglass strands that are added into the mix to help strengthen the slab after it has been cured. I could be wrong on this, but possibly not.

We're not comparing apples to apples. Don't have the time to type everything out. I agree with a lot of what you're saying if not all. I was referring to a shop. And I'm also in the East Tennessee were ground is not flat. Couple of reasons why I said what I said number one being siding factor of where I mostly build your not gonna flat ground. It's also a possibility if you don't have the money to do a full slab when you build your shop you could do footers and Block come back at a later time and pour your floor. Never said you didn't thing wrong. Every area you build in is different. I see a **** ton of builders here have to bring in dirt or dig out and back feel to try and make a level place for slab. I can't tell you how many structures I've seen with a poor pad over loose fill dirt. I will always stay until I hit native ground before I do footers or a slab sometimes it's impossible to do a slab therefore we must dig down and will have some deep footers and Block work. Like everything else weather you're building a dog run a shed a buggy everybody has their opinion. I agree hundred percent with your post but around here it's not possible to do lots of times.

 

[paradisepwoffrd]

Re:

I hear that putting pipe in the floor is the ticket for new construction.

I love a woodstove but the downside for me is time. The stove in my last building would take 2 hrs before it was warm. I only fired it when i was going to be in there all day. Otherwise i used a small propane heater nearby to knock the cool off.

My new house had an existing block building. Have thought about wood or waste oil furnace, but not sure it's worth installing a chimney.

 

[CHASMAN9]

We're not comparing apples to apples. Don't have the time to type everything out. I agree with a lot of what you're saying if not all. I was referring to a shop. And I'm also in the East Tennessee were ground is not flat. Couple of reasons why I said what I said number one being siding factor of where I mostly build your not gonna flat ground. It's also a possibility if you don't have the money to do a full slab when you build your shop you could do footers and Block come back at a later time and pour your floor. Never said you didn't thing wrong. Every area you build in is different. I see a **** ton of builders here have to bring in dirt or dig out and back feel to try and make a level place for slab. I can't tell you how many structures I've seen with a poor pad over loose fill dirt. I will always stay until I hit native guard before I do footers or a slab sometimes it's impossible to do a slab therefore we must dig down and will have some deep footers and Block work. Like everything else weather you're building a dog run a shed a buggy everybody has their opinion. I agree hundred percent with your post but around here it's not possible to do lots of times.

Absolutely, whatever you can afford at the time is the right way to go about it no matter where you are. I mentioned that if you are on slopes, definitely go with stepdown footings like you said and block to adjust for grade. I've seen such poor subgrades before that we had to cut the flat grade down 6-8' on the backside and drill Caissons to support the entire house structure and it was on a crawlspace. JD's pad looks pretty level and would be easy enough and cheaper to pour on grade for him if his subgrade is suitable enough.

 

[ForMud]

What about heat? How are y'all heating your shops and is there a better form of heat that you wish you had? I'm thinking just doing a standard wood stove. Having a gas heater on thermostat would be cool, but seems like that would cost way more out the gate. Plus I love standing around a good hot wood heater anyways.

I run a wood stove on cold days, it will heat the whole place up and keep it warm.
A coal stove moderately cold days, slower to heat it up but will maintain the heat. Great for overnight, a couple of scopes and it's good for 12 hours.
A propane tophat heater for short term heating or just to knock the chill off.

 

[blacksheep10]

I leave my waste oil furnace at 60 all winter long. it's like 13* here this week. It's a half a pain in the ass to get all the oil, make sure its all adjusted and what not, but that's weekly. Wood is daily or more often than that. I don't have time to build a fire/maintain/cut wood/handle it. For a hobby shop where its just that, hobby only, I'm sure its fine. I've been in a hobby shop with floor radiant and its the ****. How you fire it and heat it is the big variable money wise there.

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re:

I hear that putting pipe in the floor is the ticket for new construction.

I love a woodstove but the downside for me is time. The stove in my last building would take 2 hrs before it was warm. I only fired it when i was going to be in there all day. Otherwise i used a small propane heater nearby to knock the cool off.

My new house had an existing block building. Have thought about wood or waste oil furnace, but not sure it's worth installing a chimney.

This is my method. Have a lb white 150k btu jet heater to knock off the initial chill, then off. Fire the wood stove soon after. Maybe stoke it twice for an 8 hour shop session, (5 gallon stainless bucket of water on stove for humidity). 70 degrees in shop rest of day.

For reference; 28x48x12.5 inside, stick built, well insulated, osb interior wall treatment, metal ceiling.

Matt

 

[ForMud]

Absolutely, whatever you can afford at the time is the right way to go about it no matter where you are. I mentioned that if you are on slopes, definitely go with stepdown footings like you said and block to adjust for grade. I've seen such poor subgrades before that we had to cut the flat grade down 6-8' on the backside and drill Caissons to support the entire house structure and it was on a crawlspace. JD's pad looks pretty level and would be easy enough and cheaper to pour on grade for him if his subgrade is suitable enough.

Were lucky up here in Delaware, it's flat. Cut the topsoil off, build up with select soil, tamp, 4" - 6" of 3/4 stone, tamp and pour away.

Not much in the way of concrete going down the rest of the week, to dam cold....Even with 2% high early, hot water and covering with blankets at night....It's 24, no sun and wind gusts of 30mph.

 

[86chevota]

Absolutely, whatever you can afford at the time is the right way to go about it no matter where you are. I mentioned that if you are on slopes, definitely go with stepdown footings like you said and block to adjust for grade. I've seen such poor subgrades before that we had to cut the flat grade down 6-8' on the backside and drill Caissons to support the entire house structure and it was on a crawlspace. JD's pad looks pretty level and would be easy enough and cheaper to pour on grade for him if his subgrade is suitable enough.

My first post I was being short with just saying its stronger. I should've explain more in detail referring outside of you mentioning slopes you were more detailed than me forsure
I agree with you. you wouldn't believe the contractors around here that would not do what you do or I. Must are going to cut flat grade down 6-8 or whatever it takes. Your right about JD's situation. I was on a job the other the home owner had their body/excavator doing the dirt work around the house preparing for the driveway and area between home shops and garages. He was taking wet fill dirt and filling in low places. Cut a flat grade with a dozer and called it good. This is a large project looking at 1700-1800 yds concrete just for the driveway in the areas between the house shops and garages . I told the homeowner that won't work he said his buddy knows what he's doing. I told him to let me know how that's going worked out when **** started to settle. If they would've taken another 6 to 9 off the grade before they built the house I would had his problem. He began to tell me that I'm being paid to worry about the house and nothing else. I said it's your problem now. You're turning all of that water off that concrete and running it back into the house major no-no.

 

[jccarter1]

Not that it applies to this much but we have been working on this plant and the concrete for it is so much overkill 20 foot wall with #8 bar on 12 centers with load column at mount points for equipment 350yd on wall and 400yd on the 4ft slab under it with 3 mats of #10

 

[grcthird]

Not that it applies to this much but we have been working on this plant and the concrete for it is so much overkill 20 foot wall with #8 bar on 12 centers with load column at mount points for equipment 350yd on wall and 400yd on the 4ft slab under it with 3 mats of #10

WOW that is impressive, I've been on a bunch of jobsites and never seen that much go into concrete work. What will the plant be used for?

 

[ForMud]

Not that it applies to this much but we have been working on this plant and the concrete for it is so much overkill 20 foot wall with #8 bar on 12 centers with load column at mount points for equipment 350yd on wall and 400yd on the 4ft slab under it with 3 mats of #10

A whole lot of snap ties there!!

 

[ibrokeit]

Not that it applies to this much but we have been working on this plant and the concrete for it is so much overkill 20 foot wall with #8 bar on 12 centers with load column at mount points for equipment 350yd on wall and 400yd on the 4ft slab under it with 3 mats of #10

Lemme get some of that wall work. Got a gooseneck full of Symon forms.

 

[blacksheep10]

A whole lot of snap ties there!!

That big of bar on vert steel I was assuming a lot of saddles, figure 8's and assholes

 

[ForMud]

The more I think about it, it's probably coil ties their using. Hard to see in that pict...But it looks like Jahn clamps to me, mean snap ties.

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

Messed up and posted this in the LED light shop thread and meant to post it here.

My buddy's 30x40x12 with 14' wide lean to. This costed him $20k total before wiring. All metal beams and perlins, insulated with metal liner panels 8' high around the inside.

I finally got a quote from the same builder on one indentical to it except for lean to. My lean to would be on concrete (40x42 pad), 12' wide instead of 14' wide, have 24' of it closed in and insulated with double doors on that side room, the remaining portion would be 16' open carport/patio. Grand total for 30x40x12 with my custom lean to / storage room, insulation, liner panels, 2 10x10 doors, 1 entry door, gutters and all - $26,100.

Next I am gonna have to sit down with my carpenter buddy and nail down a quote on the same exact thing built pole barn style, as I would like to stay around $20k total on the build. If I can build it for $20k, might leave enough on the table to pave or concrete the driveway also.

 

[Toddy]

Check out the tractor books if you come across one. Like the used car books but for tractors. Was looking at Fastline today and they had some good deals on buildings.

 

[TacomaJD]

Got another qoute on an all steel building, same specs, from the guy that built my current shop. Other guy was at $26,100 for what I wanted, completely turn key from ground up. This guy quoted $22-23k and all I would have to do is get the dirt pad done, which would probably be around $1000-1200ish as a rough guess based on what my dirt man charged for my current dirt pad.

Shop specs

So he is a couple grand cheaper, but I am still wanting to stay at or under $20k total, so I have been looking at leaning out my design a little. Initially, 12' walls for the possibility of a lift in the future is not that big a deal to me, as previously discussed. But I want a little taller door than 8'. Not sure why really, doubt I will ever have a rig taller than an 8' door. Both my Toyota crawlers I had cleared my 8' door easily. So 10x10 doors apparently need 12' walls, or so I'm told (unless roof pitch is tweaked to accomodate), reckon I could get away with going 10' walls and 9' doors? Are 9'h x 10'w garage doors common (slide up on tracks, not rollup)? That would be the perfect size for what I'm wanting. That would save a little, then opt for a 30x36 size instead of 30x40, and not insulate the storage room to save further.

At 30x36, I could possibly turn the shop sideways and have a much different layout than previously planned, which may be better. In Googling shop pics, I ran across this 30 deep x 36 wide 3 bay shop and I do like it. Looks like it would be more than plenty. But this would void my idea of having a small carport on the right side of it facing the house, incorporated into the lean-to with the storage area. I guess then I would just close in the whole 36' width for storage area? Hmm....could put an entry door from inside shop going into storage room, put up partition in storage room, and use part of it as tool room / air compressor room. Just thinking out loud. Lots of different ways I could go about this.

This just looks like an awesome size / layout to me. Except I would do 2 10' wide doors offset to one end. Pool table and man cave area on other end.

 

[the_white_shadow]

The Dirt Squirrel's Hideout
40x80x14 Footprint, 40x60x14 enclosed, with 20ft extension off the front to park my trucks under. (House built in the 40s had the single car garage converted years ago before i moved in)

12x12 dorrs up front with a 12x12 door out back for a drive through and to let the breeze in during the summer.



Back door. You can also see the compressor is outside. Its in its own enclosure now. :


Framed out the inside and put 5/8" plywood 8ft up the walls on 2/3 of it. Going to put barn wood on the other side. as well as cabinets and stuff for when i have people over to watch FB games or for whatever.


Plywood up and built a workbench.


Bought a rapid air kit from Northern Tool. Works great so far.


Built a fab table for the new build and hung a 60" TV that swings out under the carport.



Future plans include:
1. A lift
2. Bathroom in the back corner (Plumbing is stubbed in already)
3. Lean-to on the side for additional storage
4. Possible storage loft in the back right corner
5. Wood burning stove (Need to check with insurance first)
6. Need to spread gravel 5-10ft all the way around it and build a gravel driveway to it.
7. Profit?