just a lil pipe and link work

no excuses · Apr 2, 2007

Rear brake lock, 1/4 turn ball valve from Mcmaster-carr. Will us it for a park brake also and to hold the rear end locked up for front digs

. Hmmm I can not get one of the pipe threads to seal up and stop leaking, looks like I might have to braze it.:booo: .

no excuses · Apr 2, 2007

installed my in cab kill switch and fire extinguisher

no excuses · Apr 2, 2007

fuel cell lines ran and kill switch labeled :redneck:

no excuses · Apr 2, 2007

fired it up last night and it ran and moved:cheer: I still have a shiat load to do yet, but daam it was great to actually see it move on its own. I am going to pull the D300 and install a new detent springs and fix a sligth leak between the two cases, also have to build rear Dlines and exhaust ect ect.

rooinater · Apr 3, 2007

looking awesome! can't wait to see the rest of the build and some trail action! :awesomework: :cheer: :corn:

no excuses · Apr 8, 2007

used a stock 1350 Dline, ground the tube and pulled the ends out of the tubes.

no excuses · Apr 8, 2007

I was given some 3" .190 wall tube and used that forn my Dline tubes. Measured it all out and then brought it over to my local Dline shop aand had them just weld it up. Was going to weld it myslelf but got such a goodprice that I figured that I would just have them do it :redneck: . Besides that figured it would be much staighter with them doing it :kissmyass: .

no excuses · Apr 8, 2007

Dlines are done, exhaust is in, brakes are done and not leaking, pulled the D300 and replaced the detent springs (added a spacer to the Drivers side detent spring so it would stiffen it up some more), resealed the d300 and 231 C so I hope it will stop leaking. I was hitting the zerk fitting and the output shaft nut at full droop so I switched arround the ujoint so it would not hit. Ended up going with a set of spicer ujoints and will throw the old ones in as spares. I am still looking for another 1350 Dline to build a spare Dline. I also shaved the yokes to give me more room between them so they will not hit on droop iether. Figured out the tcase shift patterns and wrote them down so I can figure out what goes where to do what :haha: :haha: .

shifter
Driver side Pass. side

4hi back back
2Hi B Middle
Neutrol M M
4Low Forward F
Low rear only F M
Low front only M F

crash2 · Apr 8, 2007

Right on stan---too bad you won't make it down with us.

I have been contiplating doing something with the drivers side(rear) shifter---to keep it from popping into neutral...

no excuses · Apr 8, 2007

crash said:
Right on stan---too bad you won't make it down with us.

I have been contiplating doing something with the drivers side(rear) shifter---to keep it from popping into neutral...

U dont know how bad I want too

, spent to much money on the rig and a couple of acres of property is coming my way so I am going to have to install, well, septic, and for starters prob a mobil home for the next few years. Then I will build my shop with an apartment, hmmmm think 40'x80' will be big enuff or should I go to 50'x100' :; :cheer:

no excuses · Apr 8, 2007

its gotten a lil busy under there :flipoff: No leaks so far with the tcases and nothing seems to hit or bind. Add the skid plate and it should be just about ready for wheeling.:cheer: :fawkdancesmiley: I am going to cut and turn the exhaust tip to the side.

rooinater · Apr 8, 2007

looking awesome! :awesomework: so who's gonna be the first smart-ass to run up to your rig and kill your engine when your crawling along?... :cheer:

no excuses · Apr 9, 2007

rooinater said:
looking awesome! :awesomework: so who's gonna be the first smart-ass to run up to your rig and kill your engine when your crawling along?... :cheer:

hard to say but yah know it will happen LOL

no excuses · May 20, 2007

mounted my Rourke Fab Works rear Tcase mount, this will work with the Advanced adapters d300 32 spline output or a atlas.

no excuses · May 20, 2007

when I installed my intermediate shaft some how I did not get the on eof the side thrust bearings on the shaft and it was not kind to my gears. Thanks to the pirate BB I know have a couple of complete D300 gear sets, and at less then $50 each shipped I took 2 sets :looser: .

While I had it apart I took out the interlock pills, drilled and tapped the holes to .5" and plugged them up. Added more shims to the detent balls and springs.

no excuses · May 20, 2007

picked up some new rubber also, can yah guess what type lol. ended up goign with the 37/13.50/15 rockers. Cannot wait to get to test them out.

Just about a half inch shorter then my 38.5/14.5/15 Sx's and just about the same width. I have heard good things about these and the 39.5s are just way to wide at 16.5" wide.

no excuses · May 20, 2007

Oh yea any one need a badd ass 9" rear end, 62.5" wms to wms, 40 spline MW gun drilled axles, pro race housing and high nickel 5.67 gears, Full floaters, willwood brakes ect ect and I will through in the bent housing for free. :redneck:

Fullywrecked · May 21, 2007

Slightly bent! When it going to be done?:awesomework:

no excuses · May 21, 2007

Fullywrecked said:
Slightly bent! When it going to be done?:awesomework:

when is what going to be done??? my car ??? lol its done for now. Till I build a new front end for it and then build a chassis for it. Then I will have to decide how I am going to go with the buggy, stick with the 4.3 or V8 it. IF I V8 it will it be a FI motor or a pane motor, lol. Jus tget the rig done and all ready thinking about what I am going to build next, and how I am going to build it

:haha: :haha: . Ass far as the 40 spline rear end I do not know what I am going to due with that bad boy, It came out of my mud racer and the rest of the rig sold so I am left with this rear end and a N2o set up with no home for them, maybe in the buggy :cheer:

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