crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Enough of the bullshit--I aint in the ****ing mood.. Lets get back to the topic at hand.
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
2000 F250 7.3 super duty starting issues
- Thread starter boxboy
- Start date
Binder
Well-Known Member
Yes dad.:awesomework:
--toyguy---
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2006
- Messages
- 138
yes captain. ok forget the glow plugs and relay they never crap out on 7.3's and dont cause starting problems until 59* i have no idea the temp there i live in montana and its dipping into the 20's here boxboy i would check the EBP sensor common issue. also CPS is cheap insurance i carry a spare.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
whats that scott?
OK, you can rule out glow plugs and relay very quickly.
While cranking on the motor, are you getting white smoke out the exhaust pipe?
If your getting white smoke, then yes, glowplugs/relay are shot.
If no white smoke, then your injectors are not firing, or no fuel to the injectors. Start looking at things like weak batteries, fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, leaking O-rings on the high pressure oil side of things, blown fuse for the computer (due to fuel bowl heater shorting out).
If you have a scanner that can read live data, make sure your seeing a tach reading (rules out CPS), and then look at the ICP sensor, and make sure your building oil pressure to fire the injectors. Could have a stuck IPR, or lost an o-ring. Minimum 500psi to fire the injectors.
As for the EBP sensor, its really only used in combination with the exhaust warmup valve, and is part of the Cold Air Package. A bad EBP shouldnt cause starting issues, but may cause the truck to fail to close the warmup valve during initial cold start warmup cycle. Will set a code if doing KOER tests with a live scanner. I ran a bad EBP for years and never had a problem other than warmup cycle not engaging, which I didnt care about anyway.
Troubleshooting a powerstroke without a live reader is tough. You really need to be able to see the various sensor readings live, as they happen, to fix these motors accurately and not just throw parts at it until it runs. I've worked on one or two in my time
While cranking on the motor, are you getting white smoke out the exhaust pipe?
If your getting white smoke, then yes, glowplugs/relay are shot.
If no white smoke, then your injectors are not firing, or no fuel to the injectors. Start looking at things like weak batteries, fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, leaking O-rings on the high pressure oil side of things, blown fuse for the computer (due to fuel bowl heater shorting out).
If you have a scanner that can read live data, make sure your seeing a tach reading (rules out CPS), and then look at the ICP sensor, and make sure your building oil pressure to fire the injectors. Could have a stuck IPR, or lost an o-ring. Minimum 500psi to fire the injectors.
As for the EBP sensor, its really only used in combination with the exhaust warmup valve, and is part of the Cold Air Package. A bad EBP shouldnt cause starting issues, but may cause the truck to fail to close the warmup valve during initial cold start warmup cycle. Will set a code if doing KOER tests with a live scanner. I ran a bad EBP for years and never had a problem other than warmup cycle not engaging, which I didnt care about anyway.
Troubleshooting a powerstroke without a live reader is tough. You really need to be able to see the various sensor readings live, as they happen, to fix these motors accurately and not just throw parts at it until it runs. I've worked on one or two in my time
I've worked on one or two in my time
Haha ya maybe only 1 or 2 in your time. Nice write :awesomework:
stealthrunner1
Well-Known Member
Powerstroke.ORG!!!!!!All your questions will be answered!!!!!:awesomework: Just replaced my CPS.....due to dieing cruising down the freeway at 60.!!!:awesomework:
DHR Darren
Well-Known Member
I agree, that is a great site.
Its oil pressure at the injector the oil pick ups are bleeding off (best i can explain it) I am told there is a kit which fixes it but if I had a ford scan tool I could validate the pressure bleed off. I am taking it to my brother-in-law next week and will have him scan it for me.
Yes that is the EBP sensor so that code is corrected but I still have an issue with warm starts. I have also replaced the alternator and both batteries as they were 7 years old even though the battery store told me there were good still.
Yes that is the EBP sensor so that code is corrected but I still have an issue with warm starts. I have also replaced the alternator and both batteries as they were 7 years old even though the battery store told me there were good still.
Binder
Well-Known Member
How do you know the HP oil pessure is low? Good chance it's injector O rings.rings
I don't it is a theory which I don't have the tools to check but my truck does not smoke at all and runs good once started just takes a lot of cranking hot or cold...
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
It won't smoke if the oil o-rings are toast...It'll just bleed back to the crankcase... It's when the fuel o-rings are toasty when they smoke...
You can check to see if the Hpop reservoir is bleeding off by removing the small allen plug on top of the reservoir and checking if the oil level is within an inch of the plug hole (done with engine NOT running!!!!!!!!!)... If it is close to the top of the plug hole, then it's not the Hpop system bleeding off. Time to go after the orings, or something after the Hpop.
You can check to see if the Hpop reservoir is bleeding off by removing the small allen plug on top of the reservoir and checking if the oil level is within an inch of the plug hole (done with engine NOT running!!!!!!!!!)... If it is close to the top of the plug hole, then it's not the Hpop system bleeding off. Time to go after the orings, or something after the Hpop.
Binder
Well-Known Member
What Kevin said. Easy to do and could tell you a lot. Also be careful of theories from the internet, even those cool diesel sites. There's good info out there and a lot of flakes too.
Last edited:
I think we maybe talking about the same thing I am just not telling you correctly the theory is from someone who works on these trucks but has not yet seen the truck in person and he, I think, is saying what you are saying with the O-rings but no parts have been bought and I am in no hurry to go buy parts it still runs fine just doesn't start good... but I would like it fixed before we get to cold.
Binder
Well-Known Member
Injector O rings are quite a bit of work to replace. You may want to run some tests to see if they are bad before going there. If you search some of those sites you can find directions to test the O rings with a high pressure gage and a grease gun... couple fittings. I have a gage and the fittings if you want to use them........
Basically you just pump oil into the oil rail of each head and see how long it holds pressure.
Basically you just pump oil into the oil rail of each head and see how long it holds pressure.
DHR Darren
Well-Known Member
All depends on what you deem hard on replacing o-rings. I can do them in a morning with nothing more than a few common hand tools and $75 in parts. May as well do glow plugs also while in there if it has 260k on it.
Changing O-rings is not that hard, but it is messy. Each injector is holding back oil, fuel, and coolant, and as soon as you pop the first injector out, you drain all three rails into that hole.
Take the rear most injector out first, and suck all the fluids out of just that one hole, and then you can pop the other injectors out with a lot less mess.
I also dry fire the motor a couple revolutions just before re-installing the injectors to blow anything out of the cylinder that I missed. Prevents a possibly accidental hydrolock situation.
If your taking out your injectors, and they have over 100k miles on them, it wouldnt hurt to send them out for inspection/rebuild. They literally get hammered on by the electromagnets that fire them and they do wear out.
Lastly, on a 2000 year motor, you may or may not have a Long Lead (code LL) injector on #8 cylinder. Your going to want that one to go back in the same hole. Otherwise all the rest can mix and match.
To really do it right, it also takes an extra day, because your supposed to let the O-rings relax overnight after installing them onto the injector bodies. They dont want you to roll the O-ring on, but stretch it out and drop it into the right spot. Most people however just roll em on, and drop em in, because they are under the gun timewise.
Dynomite Diesel in Monroe can probably get you set up. Also, when looking for parts, your motor is built by international, so you dont always have to buy ford parts, you can get T444e parts from the local trucking repair shop too. If they want your serial number, you can find it stamped on the block, near the oil filter, should start out 7.4JU2U and then the serial number. 2000-ish should be in the 130xxxx range give or take.
Take the rear most injector out first, and suck all the fluids out of just that one hole, and then you can pop the other injectors out with a lot less mess.
I also dry fire the motor a couple revolutions just before re-installing the injectors to blow anything out of the cylinder that I missed. Prevents a possibly accidental hydrolock situation.
If your taking out your injectors, and they have over 100k miles on them, it wouldnt hurt to send them out for inspection/rebuild. They literally get hammered on by the electromagnets that fire them and they do wear out.
Lastly, on a 2000 year motor, you may or may not have a Long Lead (code LL) injector on #8 cylinder. Your going to want that one to go back in the same hole. Otherwise all the rest can mix and match.
To really do it right, it also takes an extra day, because your supposed to let the O-rings relax overnight after installing them onto the injector bodies. They dont want you to roll the O-ring on, but stretch it out and drop it into the right spot. Most people however just roll em on, and drop em in, because they are under the gun timewise.
Dynomite Diesel in Monroe can probably get you set up. Also, when looking for parts, your motor is built by international, so you dont always have to buy ford parts, you can get T444e parts from the local trucking repair shop too. If they want your serial number, you can find it stamped on the block, near the oil filter, should start out 7.4JU2U and then the serial number. 2000-ish should be in the 130xxxx range give or take.
Jeepasaurusrex
Well-Known Member
I decided to clean mine today... This is what I found.. 
![IMG_3453[1].JPG](http://attachments.www.hardlinecrawlers.com/xfmg/thumbnail/4/4886-85915f49a6df613933d2888f4d5ec75f.jpg?1625928491)