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2000 F250 7.3 super duty starting issues

I decided to clean mine today... This is what I found.. :mad:

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At least mine was in one piece!!!:eeek:
 
Been dealing with a low boost/high EGT issue on a buddy's 99---I did find one of the turbo bolts fell out (found it when I dropped my wrench and was chasing after it with a magnet!), and the others were loose...tightened them. Also found the EBP sensor tube was indeed rusted thru in about the same spot, but was missing about an inch of the tube, and Ford up here stocks the tube for reasonable so it got replaced along with a new sensor. Seems to have helped dramatically, but still not 100%. It does have 310K on the clock...
 
Been dealing with a low boost/high EGT issue on a buddy's 99---Seems to have helped dramatically, but still not 100%. It does have 310K on the clock...

Your probably losing drive pressure out the up-pipes. The factory system is just a slip joint and gasket that wears out over time. The updated system uses a flexible bellows style instead.

Look around the back of the motor and firewall. if you see black soot, its kinda a sign.

Also, 99's are tricky. There is an early, and a late 99. Check the door sticker. If its 3/99 or earlier, its an early 99 and can be difficult to find the right parts for it. its a mish-mash of 97 motor, and 2000 motor parts.
 
Your probably losing drive pressure out the up-pipes. The factory system is just a slip joint and gasket that wears out over time. The updated system uses a flexible bellows style instead.

Look around the back of the motor and firewall. if you see black soot, its kinda a sign.

Also, 99's are tricky. There is an early, and a late 99. Check the door sticker. If its 3/99 or earlier, its an early 99 and can be difficult to find the right parts for it. its a mish-mash of 97 motor, and 2000 motor parts.

It's a 4/98 and Yes, I know all of this, Early 99 is somewhat of a bastid child!!! :redneck:...there is not any significant soot around the connections of the up pipes at the Y, but none on firewall (just a slight dusting right at the split.) I have a 97 myself...also with slight dusting, but no firewall soot...mine makes over 20psi...
 
I've cleaned everything up, and will drive it tonight-and see what develops after a run into town and back---fixing the EBP tube will build more drive pressure to the pass up pipe at least, and if it is leaking should increase the pressure at the leak(s) on the up pipes. Stay tuned! :D
 
Another thing that helped my truck solve the High EGT/Low boost issue was, I replaced my High Pressure Oil Pump with a Terminator Engineering 500 pump. Joey takes your stock pump and guts it, rebuilds it with some new parts, and increases your oil volume.

If your pump has gone weak, you lose injector pressure, and that causes poor burn, high egt, low boost, low fuel economy, etc. I gained almost 2mpg (average mileage by hand, over a one year time frame). Would do again in a heartbeat.

I have an autometer 0-100psi electric oil pressure gauge plugged into a second 7.3 ICP sensor. Gives me live high pressure oil readings while driving. You gotta mentally do a little math tho when looking at the gauge. Multiply everything x40. So if the gauge reads 10psi, your making 400, if it reads 60, your making 2400. On a hard run, I could watch my ICP pressures drop to almost 1600psi. Ideally, you never want to drop below 2800 to 3000 on a hard pull.
 
Another thing that helped my truck solve the High EGT/Low boost issue was, I replaced my High Pressure Oil Pump with a Terminator Engineering 500 pump. Joey takes your stock pump and guts it, rebuilds it with some new parts, and increases your oil volume.

If your pump has gone weak, you lose injector pressure, and that causes poor burn, high egt, low boost, low fuel economy, etc. I gained almost 2mpg (average mileage by hand, over a one year time frame). Would do again in a heartbeat.

I have an autometer 0-100psi electric oil pressure gauge plugged into a second 7.3 ICP sensor. Gives me live high pressure oil readings while driving. You gotta mentally do a little math tho when looking at the gauge. Multiply everything x40. So if the gauge reads 10psi, your making 400, if it reads 60, your making 2400. On a hard run, I could watch my ICP pressures drop to almost 1600psi. Ideally, you never want to drop below 2800 to 3000 on a hard pull.

Cool idea with the 2nd ICP...
It has a NEW HPOP, installed at 275K along with NEW injectors at the same time. The issues started about 5K ago (300K). I will look at the ICP numbers with my scan tool tomorrow. I see where your going.:awesomework:
 
Welp, found the ICP numbers are low on WOT...will ramp up to about 2200 under acceleration, then like a switch, it drops to ~1450ish...AND the readings are erratic at idle (tipping me to ICP)...It is over due for oil change, and will address this before condemning the ICP or HPOP...Thanks for the wake up of my brain! It's been awhile since working with these every day, and I forgot some of the basics...:awesomework:
 
Welp, found the ICP numbers are low on WOT...will ramp up to about 2200 under acceleration, then like a switch, it drops to ~1450ish...AND the readings are erratic at idle (tipping me to ICP)...It is over due for oil change, and will address this before condemning the ICP or HPOP...Thanks for the wake up of my brain! It's been awhile since working with these every day, and I forgot some of the basics...:awesomework:

You might want to pull your IPR out and check it for debris. The oil that fills the HPOP reservoir is unfiltered, so if you get any old O-ring debris in the pan, it can plug up the IPR or cause it to be erratic.

Sticking IPR can also cause your low idle to be erratic, but then again, so can a stuck/sticky injector causing oil to just dump out the drain port on the injector body.
 
When I changed the injectors awhile back (30K or so ago), the o-rings on the old injectors were all good. The reason for the injector change was a stuck open injector, causing a no-start. That's also when the HPOP got replaced (due to leaks) along with a new IPR (for shiggles while in there...). Keep in mind, it is like a switch is flipped going from 2300 ishPSI to 1400ish while accelerating heavily. The oil was changed today, and it did improve things...ever so slightly, but it's still not right... I WILL get to the bottom of this. :awesomework:
 
The ICP preasure at idle is 500 and when I shut the truck off it goes to 0 in about 15 seconds...
 
The ICP preasure at idle is 500 and when I shut the truck off it goes to 0 in about 15 seconds...

What is your ICP pressure while cranking tho, and would be nice to know what your IPR duty cycle is at idle and while cranking also. I want to say that IPR duty cycle should be in the 5 to 10% range at idle, and up to 50% at startup.

The injection event is pretty drawn out as far as things that must be working correctly go.

You need fuel, oil, and electronics to fire the injector.

Fuel wise, it will run on a couple psi of fuel pressure, but wont RPM out, no power, stumbling on acceleration.

Oil is the biggest problem. Your low pressure pump supplies oil to a high pressure pump via a reservoir on the top front of the motor. The pump rotates at about 70% of engine RPM and turns a swash plate set at 15 or 17 degrees depending on year of pump. This pressurizes the oil, and most of it is dumped back to the pan via in Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR). As the regulator closes, it stops some of the oil from dumping to the pan, and begins to build pressure in the heads. The more pressure, the more fuel is injected, and at a higher injection pressures.

The electronics portion talks back to the IPR, via the ICP sensor. The computer calculates everything and uses the ICP reading to control the IPR, and uses your throttle pedal to calculate engine demand. This is fed into the IDM (injector driver module) which actually fires the injectors with monster electromagnets on top of the injector. All of this is timed via the CPS cam sensor on the front of the motor.

The mechanical portion is easy. Your heads either hold pressure, or they leak. Your pump either makes pressure, or its weak/bad. And your IPR either closes or it doesnt (to send the pressure to the heads).

But getting all of the electronics on the same page can be an issue. Thats why having a live reader is so important on these motors.

Two things that Ford does not monitor from the factory, and that is fuel pressure, and IPR movement. Just because you hear the fuel pump running does not always = fuel pressure. And just because the computer is commanding the IPR to close, doesnt mean it really is.
 
How many miles are on this beast? I read through most of this and might have missed it. In the tank there is a mixing chamber with 2 small filters that get clogged up after a while and can cause hard start and rough running conditions. Fuel pressure at the fuel bowl should be around 62psi. If fuel pressure is real low there I would work my way back to the tank checkng fuel pump and what not. If fuel pressure at the bowl is good I would start looking into injector type issues. My 2 cents! Goodluck :beer:
 
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