I see I have one vote of confidence...
And it's a bit more difficult to dimple die a half a hole... AND I still have the option to cut the center out if need be. laughing1 laughing1
Here is my reasoning on the full wheel cover:
-Breaking a ring gear? I broke ring gears
all the time in the Toyota. Never saw the need pull the drive flanges, and on the Yota it wasn't a simple ordeal, had to pull the wheel, plus 6 press fit dowel pins and 6 studs with cone washers.... And on the Toyota rear axle, I couldn't "pull the slug" because well, it's a rear axle...
If I break an axle shaft/U-joint, I'm goning to pull it out of the knuckle/housing anyway, so I have to take the wheel off. With the unit bearings it's pretty simple. 2 brake caliper bolts, 4 nuts on the back side of the unit bearing and the whole assembly slides out... Don't even have to pull the drive slug!!
I've got an extra unit bearing to use as an spare/idler when I do break a shaft.
So yeah, there is really no reason to pull the drive slug with out removing the wheel first...
I plan on giving it all 200hp of bone stock 1989 Ford 351W!
I really hope with the stock 200hp v8 feeding an np205 and 14/D70 combo with chromo 35 spline stubs and Super Joints, that I won't have to worry about breaking too much.
oh, and only 39.5" TSLs...