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5.3 or 6.0

Pretty sad when the most entertaining thread is a 5.3 / 6.0 debate.

#uppermiddleclassproblems
#lsswaptheworld
#woopow
#CHM
#LSconnection
#ecotecHAHA
#350hpain'tenough
#besomebody
#beSMBROADY
 
smbroady82 said:
Well hey there stranger!!
WAts up Brother? Man drop some coin on a 5.3!! Best/worst thing I ever did! You going to shamrock?
 
6.0 or 6.2 for sure, you're going to spend a lot in the end so do it right.

Car intake or aftermarket intake
Oil pan or at least baffle kit
Wiring harness cut down and tune
Accessory brackets
Locking dip stick

I'm sure I'm forgetting things but that is the basics
 
onetoncrawler said:
6.0 or 6.2 for sure, you're going to spend a lot in the end so do it right.

Car intake or aftermarket intake
Oil pan or at least baffle kit
Wiring harness cut down and tune
Accessory brackets
Locking dip stick

I'm sure I'm forgetting things but that is the basics

While talking to the guru when I ordered some parts. I was told the truck intakes flow good and a swap wasnt nessacary.

The car intakes are definetly more aesthetically pleasing. Not 100 percent a have to swap part from knowledge that has been passed down to me. Im sure there are some dyno numbers that may solidfy one way or the other though.

Another question. On the 5.3 or 6.0 is the alternator in the way? Is that the reason for wanting to change the accessory bracket change? Maybe just cause they are ugly. :dunno:

Good thread.
 
Just ask yourself this. In the end, how much money is 60 hp worth to you? That is about the hp difference after all the good parts between the 2 motors. And, it is even less than that stock. Torque is nice, but if that was all we were all after we'd all have big blocks :****:
 
Everyone is all busting up in this thread with their wallets wide open.
Why would you spend extra money on an intake that loses power before even driving it to see if you think it's necessary.
It's not like you lose any money by hooking up a 5.3, making sure you can complete the rest of your build as planned, then upgrading to a 6.0 if it is even necessary after driving the completed rig. Everything can be switched over and resale on a good LS is stupid easy. I would much rather use that addition $1000 on parts elsewhere that are necessary.

I'm a poor boy just trying to stay rightside up on the big boy trails so maybe my logic is off. I have taken a couple tubes to the head in the last month.

Do it once, do it right or leave room for improvement
Either way your ride will be nice.
 
Eddyj said:
Pretty sad when the most entertaining thread is a 5.3 / 6.0 debate.

#uppermiddleclassproblems
#lsswaptheworld
#woopow
#CHM
#LSconnection
#ecotecHAHA
#350hpain'tenough
#besomebody
#beSMBROADY

:rolf:

Casey said:
WAts up Brother? Man drop some coin on a 5.3!! Best/worst thing I ever did! You going to shamrock?

Unfortunately not, have to host a couples shower that weekend... best man/ big brother stuff. Hate to miss it but I only have one blood brother.
 
Re:

If you can find a good deal on a 6l go that route..I've bought a few for 1k or so. That being said both engines can make good power the 5.3 just a little more affordable

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Agree, most folks with buggies can't get by with truck intakes unless you want to look around the side of it. And unless you run a cover they look terrible.

On the brackets , most folks will run an aftermarket pump so there's a new bracket and I have always wanted to get rid of the huge aluminum factory stuff for looks, again not 100% necessary but if your engine is exposed it will totally affect how clean the buggy looks

kmcminn said:
While talking to the guru when I ordered some parts. I was told the truck intakes flow good and a swap wasnt nessacary.

The car intakes are definetly more aesthetically pleasing. Not 100 percent a have to swap part from knowledge that has been passed down to me. Im sure there are some dyno numbers that may solidfy one way or the other though.

Another question. On the 5.3 or 6.0 is the alternator in the way? Is that the reason for wanting to change the accessory bracket change? Maybe just cause they are ugly. :dunno:

Good thread.
 
onetoncrawler said:
Agree, most folks with buggies can't get by with truck intakes unless you want to look around the side of it. And unless you run a cover they look terrible.

On the brackets , most folks will run an aftermarket pump so there's a new bracket and I have always wanted to get rid of the huge aluminum factory stuff for looks, again not 100% necessary but if your engine is exposed it will totally affect how clean the buggy looks


I will say that down the road a better looking intake may be on my to do list. It wont be a stock car intake.

I bought a pump from psc that work with truck brackets.
 
I'd say go 5.3 for your budgets sake. If you choose to upgrade later you can sell the 5.3 and your harness will swap right over to the new 6.0 as long as you stay with a gen 3. I personally think the 5.3's are a little tougher and have better longevity than the 6.0's. With a good cam and tune you will be high 300's to nearly 400hp with the 5.3. There is a lot of power that can be unlocked in the tune itself. I know there's a ton of idiots out there that have a cam and a tune and have 500hp with a 300k mile 5.3 but here's some real numbers for ya.

2002 5.3 bored .030 over, factory heads with larger intake valves and some porting (which was a waste of time according to the flow bench). Comp thumpr camshaft. This is a zero mile motor and was rebuilt by a professional. We are tuning it on the engine dyno. These numbers aren't finished but close to what we're gonna get out of it. Keep in mind that no two dynos give the same exact numbers but you get the idea. I'll post my numbers on my motor when I tear down for powder coat.

D77C3AB2-22DD-4C36-AFC3-C42AF4CA939D_zpskidhr8co.jpg
 
pholmann said:
I'd say go 5.3 for your budgets sake. If you choose to upgrade later you can sell the 5.3 and your harness will swap right over to the new 6.0 as long as you stay with a gen 3. I personally think the 5.3's are a little tougher and have better longevity than the 6.0's. With a good cam and tune you will be high 300's to nearly 400hp with the 5.3. There is a lot of power that can be unlocked in the tune itself. I know there's a ton of idiots out there that have a cam and a tune and have 500hp with a 300k mile 5.3 but here's some real numbers for ya.

2002 5.3 bored .030 over, factory heads with larger intake valves and some porting (which was a waste of time according to the flow bench). Comp thumpr camshaft. This is a zero mile motor and was rebuilt by a professional. We are tuning it on the engine dyno. These numbers aren't finished but close to what we're gonna get out of it. Keep in mind that no two dynos give the same exact numbers but you get the idea. I'll post my numbers on my motor when I tear down for powder coat.

I wonder where a 6.0 would end up if you did all the same stuff. The only cost difference would be the initial purchase of the engine. And the 6.0 wouldn't need the money spent on upgrading to bigger valves, so there's some of the purchase price back.

Broady in my opinion go with the 6.0 off the get go. The possibilities are wide open from there and the cost to install will be exactly the same.
 
My motor is basically a 6.0 version of that 5.3. Mines a .030 over lq9 with a very comparable cam, no porting, good valve job, lightly cut heads and block, bigger injectors and a good dyno tune. I'm dying to know what my crank power is.
 
pholmann said:
My motor is basically a 6.0 version of that 5.3. Mines a .030 over lq9 with a very comparable cam, no porting, good valve job, lightly cut heads and block, bigger injectors and a good dyno tune. I'm dying to know what my crank power is.

And you how much more are you into your engine compared to that 5.3? Probably not much. The hassle to save a little bit of money now and swap it all out later doesn't seem worth it unless he has a free 5.3 sitting in the floor. In that case sell it and buy the 6.0 :rolf:
 
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