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90's throw back....Manche build
- Thread starter mcutler
- Start date
Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
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Agreed, thanks Zekezeke392 said:
Uh... yeah... that's fuel pump wiring.... Ill need that.The Luke said:Don'"t forget to plug that thingy in. Dunno what it goes to. But I'"m pretty sure it'"s not there to keep those dimples from separating.
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Good deal done today.
Toolbox lid hinged, latched, and loaded.
Fuel cell back in and together for final time.
Fire bottle mounted, ready to be plumbed.
Dat ass going back together, woo hoo...
... continued....
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Toolbox lid hinged, latched, and loaded.
Fuel cell back in and together for final time.
Fire bottle mounted, ready to be plumbed.
Dat ass going back together, woo hoo...
... continued....
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B
bjeep
Guest
I like the hard line as the vent on the gas tank, nice touch. You going to keep the spare in there all the time? 
Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
Thanks!
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Yes sir, the suspension will be tuned for it.bjeep said:I like the hard line as the vent on the gas tank, nice touch. You going to keep the spare in there all the time?
Thanks!
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mcutler said:... continued...
Matt
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I love the low profile spare tire mount, but when you have to dig it out it looks like you will end up beating the crap out of all that eye candied sheet metal work. She fits in there real tight, maybe a swing up mount to help get it in the upright position would help. I guess I am just used to seeing the spare mounted on the back where you undo a few nuts and it comes right off without crunching any body parts. With such a beautiful build, I would hate to see something get crunched because of oversight. Play on!
ADMINISTRATOR
Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
I here ya. Been much discussion on the ingress and egress of spare tire. But it's really no issue. I picked it up and put it in over the tool box with the sides on, alone, with no damage, (and a towel laid over the toolbox). Once propped on the box I go to the side and pick up on the center of wheel and slide it on to the perch.
Fortunately its only 132 lbs, versus the 180 of a 43 sticky and raceline... and the 37's are even lighter... at 123.
It's certainly not as easy as a tilted spare on the back of a buggy... But hard to have a "sleeper" with that big tire up over the rails somehow. Currently, there is nothing protruding above the besides when installed... were it not for the c- pillars, I could put a tonneau cover on her, lol.
I will be adding a floor under the tire at some point, because the tire is only supported by the carcass; with a flat tire it could possibly not ride well- due to the upper link towers in the rear end actually move up into the wheel cavity at full bump. And I may flare the inner fender out at the tire just for a little extra wiggle room, in case the tire is completely ****ed and really out of shape.
Thanks chasman!
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CHASMAN9 said:I love the low profile spare tire mount, but when you have to dig it out it looks like you will end up beating the crap out of all that eye candied sheet metal work. She fits in there real tight, maybe a swing up mount to help get it in the upright position would help. I guess I am just used to seeing the spare mounted on the back where you undo a few nuts and it comes right off without crunching any body parts. With such a beautiful build, I would hate to see something get crunched because of oversight. Play on!
ADMINISTRATOR
I here ya. Been much discussion on the ingress and egress of spare tire. But it's really no issue. I picked it up and put it in over the tool box with the sides on, alone, with no damage, (and a towel laid over the toolbox). Once propped on the box I go to the side and pick up on the center of wheel and slide it on to the perch.
Fortunately its only 132 lbs, versus the 180 of a 43 sticky and raceline... and the 37's are even lighter... at 123.
It's certainly not as easy as a tilted spare on the back of a buggy... But hard to have a "sleeper" with that big tire up over the rails somehow. Currently, there is nothing protruding above the besides when installed... were it not for the c- pillars, I could put a tonneau cover on her, lol.
I will be adding a floor under the tire at some point, because the tire is only supported by the carcass; with a flat tire it could possibly not ride well- due to the upper link towers in the rear end actually move up into the wheel cavity at full bump. And I may flare the inner fender out at the tire just for a little extra wiggle room, in case the tire is completely ****ed and really out of shape.
Thanks chasman!
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More progress today...
Front end together, under hood done, header wiring complete, all lights good to go, one bedside completely tabbed and installed.
Pic heavy.
... cont...
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Front end together, under hood done, header wiring complete, all lights good to go, one bedside completely tabbed and installed.
Pic heavy.
... cont...
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whiskeymakin
Well-Known Member
Killer man!
5BrothersFabrication
Zzzzz....
Maybe this has been asked before, but any plans for paint or powder, or you just gonna WD40 it after every trip? Any paint for the body?
Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
If you look close you can see the areas I've tested.
Half the fender behind signal...
Hood passenger front corner...
Drivers front corner hood and fender half...
Bare metal chassis
I've used Gibb's oil metal protectant for years on all kind of surfaces, which is what I've been applying here and there throughout the build. Great thing is you can paint right over it at any time, and weld through- decent as anti-spatter as well... and smells pretty good.
I won't do wd-40, nothing but horror stories if you want to paint later. But I am interested to see what they're reviewing at SEMA this year, busted knuckle is in their both and I'm curious what the new products are.
But I've been watching a few TT teams that are using a ceramic coating on bare metal as well; I intend to run some test sections with it.
If I decide later to paint I'm going to use Steel-it aerosol, stainless steel particle impregnated paint, nice finish and weld through.
Thanks guys.
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Thankswhiskeymakin said:
On the body I intend to just hit it with rubbing compound, and I'm going to apply some of this new ceramic coat stuff. I've done a test section on hood and fender, and it wakes the red back up without taking away from the natural patina- which is my goal. Still going for the retro rod/ sleeper look.5BrothersFabrication said:
If you look close you can see the areas I've tested.
Half the fender behind signal...
Hood passenger front corner...
Drivers front corner hood and fender half...
Bare metal chassis
I've used Gibb's oil metal protectant for years on all kind of surfaces, which is what I've been applying here and there throughout the build. Great thing is you can paint right over it at any time, and weld through- decent as anti-spatter as well... and smells pretty good.
I won't do wd-40, nothing but horror stories if you want to paint later. But I am interested to see what they're reviewing at SEMA this year, busted knuckle is in their both and I'm curious what the new products are.
But I've been watching a few TT teams that are using a ceramic coating on bare metal as well; I intend to run some test sections with it.
If I decide later to paint I'm going to use Steel-it aerosol, stainless steel particle impregnated paint, nice finish and weld through.
Thanks guys.
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sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
So darn sexy
onepieceatatime
I like turtles...
I agree.
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