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Arbs
are the best diff out there. In my car I have mega HI9s fr and rr
with a detroit/spool combo. If arb 9in diffs were more reliable,that what I would have
at least in the rear axle.
 
Pro rock hp 60 are not very strong in a rear app.

Mine never failed :rolleyes:

A hp 60 in the rear should be just fine as long as you are not some punk kid that thinks one should hold up to 49" tires being bound up while doing neutral drops to try to get them spinning.
 
can i use my RD35's in the dynatrac centers? or do i need RD36?

Edit: Yes, i can use them, as long as i use a 4.56 and up. I'd need an rd36 for anything numerically lower than that.
 
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Pro rock hp 60 are not very strong in a rear app.

I'm going to have to take my chances, it was that or the 9", and i want to run ARB's. So it's a catch 22. I went back and forth, on that a couple times, maybe i'll regret it maybe not, were you breaking rear gearsets on your old buggy?
 
Assholes.....opinions......everybody's got one.

Dude......I have STOCK D60 junk yard CRAP for axles, front and rear steer and beat my **** harder than 99.9% of folks out there. Take it from me.......Dana 60's are :tits6: Your ProRocks will be fine, just fine.:;

9" Thirds are :rb:
 
here's the most incriminating evidence of the 9" ARB's "issues" for anyone wondering what the big deal is. And i'll be on 42's with around 400HP, and similar weight, maybe less.

http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=126363&page=2

Originally Posted by Scott@Rockstomper
My Achilles heel with the 9": ARB locking collar. I beat the snot out of my stuff, with 40's, ~300hp, C6, ~45:1 crawl, sometimes 400+ pounds of ballast in my front tires, a nearly-4k-pound car (without ballast)... I was rough on stuff.

9" vs 60 in pictures (these are all ARB parts, nothing stock):

IM000128.JPG


60 side gear, 9" side gear, 9" locking collar.

IM000130.JPG


60 side gear sitting on 9" locking collar.

IM000132.JPG


Flipped over, 9" side gear in its own locking collar.

IM000133.JPG


Same thing, but with the 60 side gear sitting on the 9" locking collar.

If I'd not abused my rig in comp, the 9" stuff probably would've lived a good long while; if I'd treated it as a race car (put it on a maintainance schedule and torn down everything appropriately to preemptively fix stuff before it broke) it probably would've been fine in comp as well; if I'd put it on a diet, or gone to smaller tires, same thing, probably would've been fine.

Instead, I bigger-hammer'd it, went to 60's (that 60 side gear, is the standard 35 spline one; I went to 37 spline) and went on neglecting my own maintainance.
 
Assholes.....opinions......everybody's got one.

Dude......I have STOCK D60 junk yard CRAP for axles, front and rear steer and beat my **** harder than 99.9% of folks out there. Take it from me.......Dana 60's are :tits6: Your ProRocks will be fine, just fine.:;

8" Thirds are :rb:


Yeah these chevy axles i got woulda worked just fine. I also ran LP front diff in my 4runner without a problem.:fawkdancesmiley:
 
Junk yard 60s work awesome, sometimes better than aftermarket stuff. my biggest point was don't do the cvs. The company that builds them are a pain in the ass. I would recommend the spidertrax axles over the rest. For the money spidertraxs prices are close to Alloy or Superior but their quality is much higher and they turn 50 deg. When the steering geometery is properly set up for 50 deg a car can do some amazing things.
James
 
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