wheeler4x4samota
Well-Known Member
lookin good mike
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Mike thinking about running the ford shock towers instead of the hoops ....thoughts?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks JP--its truckin along....
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I hate them--I really do.....
The tube ones just look better and still give you better viability and access thru the fenderwell for workin on the motor...
Also I was wrong
Those tube nuts were not right so I was able to find my small stash that was "just" enough so I will go ahead and source them since I have better contacts for it :awesomework:
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Damn...put it on my tab... Send me a link and I will replenish your stock
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I will try a source thru work and see where it takes me :awesomework:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I just love a good challenge and I have always considered fuel line that looks decent one of my fun challenges--ya I know call me crazy but its still one of my passions...
But I got the fuel system from the tank to where it will go to rubber done. I had a couple spots I wasn't 100% happy with but I think it turned out decent and shouldn't have any issues...
At the tank looking forward..
Forward the tank looking back.
Frame rail at the pump area.
Above the crossmember..
Forward crossmember/fuel filter...
And where it goes to rubber over to the motor.
I got most of the new line bent up on the motor side and I made a mount to secure them and threw some paint on it--should be done tomorrow..
But I got the fuel system from the tank to where it will go to rubber done. I had a couple spots I wasn't 100% happy with but I think it turned out decent and shouldn't have any issues...
At the tank looking forward..
Forward the tank looking back.
Frame rail at the pump area.
Above the crossmember..
Forward crossmember/fuel filter...
And where it goes to rubber over to the motor.
I got most of the new line bent up on the motor side and I made a mount to secure them and threw some paint on it--should be done tomorrow..
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Got the right headers in today Mike gonna bring you that the spark plugs, cap and rotor, and the RIGHT solder. i feel like im forgetting something probably gonna just bring it to you at work...whats that place called again?
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
oh and bed bolts....still something else??
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
SPeedway chev--and I am there till 5 this week..
Oh ya--dipstick tube :redneck:
I sourced the right tube nuts and they are coming and the brake line will be in tommorow..
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
On it... That will be Shipped straight to you
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I got the rest of the fuel lines made/installed..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I threw a gallon of fuel in the tank and ran the pump. Well after a few tries and throwing 5 gallons in I kept pulling the pre-filter loose and no damn fuel..
Well this is where I full awn pulled a DUMB **** move. I have done a number of these pumps and damn if I didn't put the fawker in backwards--ya dumbass move,lol..
So I pulled the pump off and I had to rework both hard lines on each side of the pump and re-do both fittings on the pump. I was able to make everything fit nicely again.
Now one would think hey its going to work just fine--ha my luck was on a roll the bad way. So for those who are used to how these pumps are supposed to sound know the tone of the pump and can tell with its really working HARD--ya thats what it was doing. I checked the fuel pressure and it was like at 90psi-----mmmmmmmkay.
I had one leak at a hose clamp and one at the tank where the 5/16" hose is clamped onto the fuel sender. Ok to leak there something is odd.
So I pulled the hose off and damn--the return on the sender is fully plugged. Ok that makes sense. Pulled the sender and cleaned the crud out of the return and threw it back in. Now with 90psi and only one real leak---I call that good-------------but.................
So I run the pump again and after about 10 seconds it starts cavating/buzzing--WTF..... I pull the pre-filter off and little to no fuel... I pulled the return hose off the sender and damn---again after 10 seconds it starts buzzing and no fuel out the hose. Check the pre-filter for being plugged---nope. I pull the sender again and thats where I find the problem--damn outlet on the sender also plugged.
So I clean it out and hook everything up---bang it works like a champ and no leaks--damn it all,lol...
Well this is where I full awn pulled a DUMB **** move. I have done a number of these pumps and damn if I didn't put the fawker in backwards--ya dumbass move,lol..
So I pulled the pump off and I had to rework both hard lines on each side of the pump and re-do both fittings on the pump. I was able to make everything fit nicely again.
Now one would think hey its going to work just fine--ha my luck was on a roll the bad way. So for those who are used to how these pumps are supposed to sound know the tone of the pump and can tell with its really working HARD--ya thats what it was doing. I checked the fuel pressure and it was like at 90psi-----mmmmmmmkay.
I had one leak at a hose clamp and one at the tank where the 5/16" hose is clamped onto the fuel sender. Ok to leak there something is odd.
So I pulled the hose off and damn--the return on the sender is fully plugged. Ok that makes sense. Pulled the sender and cleaned the crud out of the return and threw it back in. Now with 90psi and only one real leak---I call that good-------------but.................
So I run the pump again and after about 10 seconds it starts cavating/buzzing--WTF..... I pull the pre-filter off and little to no fuel... I pulled the return hose off the sender and damn---again after 10 seconds it starts buzzing and no fuel out the hose. Check the pre-filter for being plugged---nope. I pull the sender again and thats where I find the problem--damn outlet on the sender also plugged.
So I clean it out and hook everything up---bang it works like a champ and no leaks--damn it all,lol...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So the new headers come in and I was shocked how the new style is with the flange.
Fitment is perfect.
Now that I have the headers I can continue on with the engine wiring..
Fitment is perfect.
Now that I have the headers I can continue on with the engine wiring..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So with the headers fitted I went and got the rest of the passenger harness done up.
Test fitted the stock gear reduction starter--fits perfect and finished the trigger wire (wrapped in heat tape).
I got the cooling fan switch wiring also done and that header painted with heat paint.. So that side is all done except the main power lead to the starter.
Test fitted the stock gear reduction starter--fits perfect and finished the trigger wire (wrapped in heat tape).
I got the cooling fan switch wiring also done and that header painted with heat paint.. So that side is all done except the main power lead to the starter.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So now its time to finish the wiring at the back of the motor. Here is how I did the stock toy oil pressure sender.
It was pretty tight but I was able to make it fit. Had I remembered about that sender I would have ran the fuel line farther out from the motor for more room but it all fit..
The temp sender for the guage was simple. The head it tapped for 3/8 npt and the toy threads on the sender is straight cut (1.5mm pitch). So I simply put sealer on the threads and run the sender all the way down till the hex portion of the sender butts up against the head. Now ya gotta be carefull and not go to tight or you will remove the threads from the sender. This has worked for me a number of times and you simply don't have the room with the tube on the header to run any type of adapter.
It was pretty tight but I was able to make it fit. Had I remembered about that sender I would have ran the fuel line farther out from the motor for more room but it all fit..
The temp sender for the guage was simple. The head it tapped for 3/8 npt and the toy threads on the sender is straight cut (1.5mm pitch). So I simply put sealer on the threads and run the sender all the way down till the hex portion of the sender butts up against the head. Now ya gotta be carefull and not go to tight or you will remove the threads from the sender. This has worked for me a number of times and you simply don't have the room with the tube on the header to run any type of adapter.
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Need any new parts Mike?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Almost chris---another evening or 2 and I will have an idea :awesomework: and some more pics...
stealthrunner1
Well-Known Member
:awesomework: Nice work Mike!!!!!:awesomework::beer:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Well its been a slow week due to getting my dodge put back together and getting my boys 4 runner fixed up but I managed to get some done. So the rear is all welded up and painted and now sitting on its own weight once again. I also got the wiring mostly done/roughed in for when the bed goes back on. Chris still needs to locate the tail lamp harness pieces and that will be all taken care of once we get to that point(soon)..
Chris also had one of those trailer 4 way flat converters on it and just in case he decides to add one in again I went and wired in taps for him to almost plug play.
Also chris-NEVER EVER use them damn scotch locks :flipoff:
Chris also had one of those trailer 4 way flat converters on it and just in case he decides to add one in again I went and wired in taps for him to almost plug play.
Also chris-NEVER EVER use them damn scotch locks :flipoff:
