MORT1
Member
Hey mike, quick question. Factory thermostat in a vortec is 195
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Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I got a bunch of boxes today with half being my electrical supplies to restock my inventory and the other parts Chris ordered for the truck.
So since I had material to build the last cable to the starter.
So at this point all needed factors to make it run are there. I turned the (broken) ignition switch and no crank--damn. So I spent some time going back over the start system and found where I had made a mistake.
When I bypassed the clutch start switch I connected the wrong 2 wires. I had connected the Black/red to the Black/yellow. The correct way is the Black/red to the White/black. After that it cranked so I threw a gallon of fuel back in the tank and the damn thing started and ran.
So since I had material to build the last cable to the starter.
So at this point all needed factors to make it run are there. I turned the (broken) ignition switch and no crank--damn. So I spent some time going back over the start system and found where I had made a mistake.
When I bypassed the clutch start switch I connected the wrong 2 wires. I had connected the Black/red to the Black/yellow. The correct way is the Black/red to the White/black. After that it cranked so I threw a gallon of fuel back in the tank and the damn thing started and ran.
stealthrunner1
Well-Known Member
Very nice Mike!!!!Get that Biatch ready for some wheeling!!!!:awesomework::beer::beer:I got a bunch of boxes today with half being my electrical supplies to restock my inventory and the other parts Chris ordered for the truck.
So since I had material to build the last cable to the starter.
So at this point all needed factors to make it run are there. I turned the (broken) ignition switch and no crank--damn. So I spent some time going back over the start system and found where I had made a mistake.
When I bypassed the clutch start switch I connected the wrong 2 wires. I had connected the Black/red to the Black/yellow. The correct way is the Black/red to the White/black. After that it cranked so I threw a gallon of fuel back in the tank and the damn thing started and ran.
MORT1
Member
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
!!!!!!! How does she sound Mike? That is a huge relief guess flakeslist comes through sometimes
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
I got Dave from D&J working on some rear disk swap mounts if anyone has the Info on the brackets or one they spare so we can copy I would appreciate it
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Hard to say--short run but it didn' sound like it was missing or knocking--so forward I go....
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So here is the stock thermostat housing/upper radiator neck assembly.
The configuration of the neck and radiator was going to make getting a hose to fit a pain. Well I formulated a new idea why not make the neck so an easier hose could be sourced and just basically make a better setup.
This ended up being a lil bit of work to get everything where it needed to be. One nice aspect for modding the OEM neck is the fact its steel with the base being 3/8" thick so welding to it without causing any warpage will be a piece of cake. I ended up using 1.5" tubing which is perfect since the hole in the base is roughly the same ID as the .120 wall tubing ID and the neck on the rad is also 1.5"--It all just seemed like a perfect match.
But here is what I came up with.
The configuration of the neck and radiator was going to make getting a hose to fit a pain. Well I formulated a new idea why not make the neck so an easier hose could be sourced and just basically make a better setup.
This ended up being a lil bit of work to get everything where it needed to be. One nice aspect for modding the OEM neck is the fact its steel with the base being 3/8" thick so welding to it without causing any warpage will be a piece of cake. I ended up using 1.5" tubing which is perfect since the hole in the base is roughly the same ID as the .120 wall tubing ID and the neck on the rad is also 1.5"--It all just seemed like a perfect match.
But here is what I came up with.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Got the new coolers that I had chris order and working on mounting location.
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Still no shifter?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Nadda...
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Not cool
BBCorvette18Punk
Active Member
Awesome work all the way around. How much would it cost for ya to re wire a 4 runner lol
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Did you figure out shock length yet Mike?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I just love making this stuff and find the harder the better....
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Not yet chris---as soon as I can sit down and do some math stuff I will have something for ya :awesomework:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So the last few days have been slow going but I was able to get more stuff done.
I pulled the rad and I was not happy with how it sat--I wanted it a tad over more to the passenger side due to the clearance from the rad to the nut on the steering box. Well I ended up working the mounts and made a 1/4" spacer for the rad and I was able to get it where I feel comfortable with it.
I pulled the rad and I was not happy with how it sat--I wanted it a tad over more to the passenger side due to the clearance from the rad to the nut on the steering box. Well I ended up working the mounts and made a 1/4" spacer for the rad and I was able to get it where I feel comfortable with it.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So in stock form(4.3) the trans cooler lines went down the motor. Due to how close the Y pipe will be to the pan I wanted the most room for the cooler lines from the heat and the only way was to run them down the frame rails.
So I ran rubber from the trans to the lines I made on the frame.
So I ran rubber from the trans to the lines I made on the frame.
![3_001[1].jpg](http://attachments.www.hardlinecrawlers.com/xfmg/thumbnail/30/30649-4cd6415f8122fe718225bccc5a025c71.jpg?1683572090)