Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)

[crash2]

just a thought on how you do the grounds, wouldnt it be beter to go from the bat to the frame, then branch out from there rather than a chain of connections?

your connections are good now, but down the road once corosion gets a chance to get in, your looking at 4 connections currently to get to the block, if you went to the frame, then branched to body/block etc you would never be more than 3 connections away from the bat. this would also help eliminate potential ground loops and noise.

Never had a problem using this method and star washers and they are as short as possible..

Plus I have never had any voltage drop across this setup which is where you will get noise from...

 

[crash2]

So I decided to go ahead and pull the blower box assembly to give me all the room needed to run the wiring. Before I pulled it I though something was wrong with the fresh air door--didn't want to move. Well I found out why--its packed FULL,lol..

So now plenty of room to work...

 

[Sandtrap1986]

So I decided to go ahead and pull the blower box assembly to give me all the room needed to run the wiring. Before I pulled it I though something was wrong with the fresh air door--didn't want to move. Well I found out why--its packed FULL,lol..

So now plenty of room to work...

Damn mice I had one in the little box under the back seat before ...at least you found that now :thumbup:

 

[t1h5ta3]

nice custom cabin filter.... lol

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

My rule of thumb is that anything over 8 gauge should be pressure crimped by a large compund crimping tool with a good crimped end on it, especially on battery terminals. Smaller stuff will burn up before the solder melts.

I've been using solder slugs on 1/0 and 2/0 cables for all of our heavy equipment for years w/o a failure.

 

[WA-Wheeler]

I've been using solder slugs on 1/0 and 2/0 cables for all of our heavy equipment for years w/o a failure.

Just the way I was taught :scratchhead:

 

[Sandtrap1986]

Gonna be a week at least for the new header after all the hoops I had to jump through ....getting the fitting here in my town from a logging equipment shop ...will pick up my stock tank and hopefully the mount....how long should I look for a one piece drive line? I have a couple I can grab

 

[crash2]

nice custom cabin filter.... lol

Ya--new toy design

I've been using solder slugs on 1/0 and 2/0 cables for all of our heavy equipment for years w/o a failure.

I knew I wasn't crazy I guess my logic was correct

Gonna be a week at least for the new header after all the hoops I had to jump through ....getting the fitting here in my town from a logging equipment shop ...will pick up my stock tank and hopefully the mount....how long should I look for a one piece drive line? I have a couple I can grab

But we are getting the right ones--worth it IMO :awesomework: Nice job...

No hurry on the driveshaft so take your time :awesomework:

 

[crash2]

So I have been trucking along in the dash and just slow going but I finally got a good dent done........

So I decided to pigtail off the bottom of the C2 connector for the speed sensor and retained the short stubs of wire and gm wiring for now. I recall doing something simular a few years back using the toy speed signal to a gm ecm just to get a speed signal. Granted the toy is 4 pulse's and the gm I wanna say is 40 per revolution..

 

[crash2]

So the harness simply follows the stock harness up/over the blower case.

Fuse block done and mounted and the DLC is mounted perfectly for access with the glove box on. I ran outa fuses so I just threw 10's in there for now. I have to restock a bunch of my inventory so they will get different amp fuses when done.

And both relays done.

So the dash wiring is pretty close to done. I hooked the battery to check what I could and I get a 2 second prime for the fuel pump and ses lamp works so thats a good sign. I also quickly jumped the fan control wire at the motor and the fan operates..

Next step is to finish running the speed sensor wiring down and out the cab.

 

[zukkev]

Granted the toy is 4 pulse's and the gm I wanna say is 40 per revolution..

Just stick a little signalamplitudifierthingymabob in there...works every time! :haha:

 

[crash2]

Just stick a little signalamplitudifierthingymabob in there...works every time! :haha:

I thought about wiring a calculator in series with it

 

[zukkev]

:haha: :haha:

 

[Sandtrap1986]

I got a bunch of fuses I can bring when I come up Tuesday :thumbup:

 

[Jeepless]

I ran outa fuses so I just threw 10's in there for now.

I got a bunch of fuses I can bring when I come up Tuesday :thumbup:

LOL...Do it before you forget and blow a fuse on the trail somewhereLOL I know another rig that a bunch of 10 am fuses were put in. Funny.:redneck:
:corn:

Looks good Crash.:awesomework:

 

[Sandtrap1986]

What's a good time to drop in today Mike got some more goodies

 

[crash2]

LOL...Do it before you forget and blow a fuse on the trail somewhereLOL I know another rig that a bunch of 10 am fuses were put in. Funny.:redneck:
:corn:

Looks good Crash.:awesomework:

I dunno what your talkin about :redneck:

What's a good time to drop in today Mike got some more goodies

Anytime after 7 chris :awesomework:

 

[Sandtrap1986]

so looking at the shifters im trying to figure out why i would go rock gate vs non? thoughts


http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/97/Art-Carr-Winters-Shifter.aspx

 

[AMJ]

so looking at the shifters im trying to figure out why i would go rock gate vs non? thoughts


http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/97/Art-Carr-Winters-Shifter.aspx

The rock gates has the neutrel gate cut out so you can go straight to reverse

 

[crash2]

So I got the speedo wiring ran down the plastic case along the rocker and out thru the floor.