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dana 60's

monstaru

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Feb 15, 2007
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OlyWa
ok, searching for dana 60, 60, dana, and every other term i have found have not given me a definitive answer.

it is possible i have a 60 front i should be interested in.but i do not know if it is a "good " choice.
it is a 98 dodge dana 60.i am pretty sure that it will be exactly like the one on my '93, which is kingpin.
i have also seen Odie post up that he has some late 80's chevy kingpins....
i have even seen people post up ford stuffs...
they are all essentially the same right?excepting the drivers drop of the ford housing?:mad:

the year range, i am kinda lost on.
cheers, brian
 
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I don't believe the 98 Dodge 60 is king pin but I could be wrong
 
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If its a 98 dodge, I believe its a low pinion, CAD(cental axle disconnect) balljoint, unit bearing axle. I think. What that means is its the least sought after D60.

Best place to check for sure would be Billivista's D60 bible on pirate4x4.com:awesomework:
 
98 is drivers drop, center axle disconnect, ball joint unit bearing axle. Pretty much the antithesis to your 93 axle if there ever was one.
 
Thast why its on CL for so cheap.... and its over priced.

Your looking for Chevy (any year)
Dodge to 1993 (91-93 being the nicer ones with the internal hubs like the chevys).
I can't remember the cut off on Fords between KP and BJ, but even the later BJ one's seem to have merit if you use them right.

Avoid a Dually unless the price is SUPER killer (unless you want the 8" extra width), as you will have to machine or swap out the hubs to make the SRW.
 
ok, ok.i pretty much only KNOW what 60 is from you guys, and my truck.soooo..
damn...
how did i miss that bible....thanks .....cheers, brian
edit:
probably because i can't search worth a fawck.but it seemed to help that time.
bookmarked for sure.:awesomework:thanks man
 
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Ford dana-60s from 1999 up use a metric bolt pattern, ball joint, unit bearing, with vacuum actuated hubs. Again, pretty much useless unless your looking to fix another ford superduty 99 and up.
 
vacuum actuated hubs?

yup!

There is a vacuum solenoid on the passenger fenderwell, when you put the truck in 4x4, it activates, and draws a vacuum inside the spindle/unit bearing, and that sucks in the outter gear to engage the front tires to the axle ends.

What happens is the vacuum lines rot, and you get a vacuum leak and your hubs stop working, and your air vents in your cab stop blowing out the dash, and start blowing out the windshield vents regardless of position.

There is a spendy hub seal that your supposed to replace any time you take the unit bearing off the truck (which usually means the unit bearing took a dump anywayz).

I have a dynatrac conversion on my axle, gives me a fixed spindle and regular timken bearings, and manual warn hubs. But thats 1700 bucks alone. 3000 if you want crossover steering.
 
yup!

There is a vacuum solenoid on the passenger fenderwell, when you put the truck in 4x4, it activates, and draws a vacuum inside the spindle/unit bearing, and that sucks in the outter gear to engage the front tires to the axle ends.

What happens is the vacuum lines rot, and you get a vacuum leak and your hubs stop working, and your air vents in your cab stop blowing out the dash, and start blowing out the windshield vents regardless of position.

There is a spendy hub seal that your supposed to replace any time you take the unit bearing off the truck (which usually means the unit bearing took a dump anywayz).

I have a dynatrac conversion on my axle, gives me a fixed spindle and regular timken bearings, and manual warn hubs. But thats 1700 bucks alone. 3000 if you want crossover steering.

You must be talking about some automatic hub crap because manual hubs have none of this.
 
yup!

There is a vacuum solenoid on the passenger fenderwell, when you put the truck in 4x4, it activates, and draws a vacuum inside the spindle/unit bearing, and that sucks in the outter gear to engage the front tires to the axle ends.

What happens is the vacuum lines rot, and you get a vacuum leak and your hubs stop working, and your air vents in your cab stop blowing out the dash, and start blowing out the windshield vents regardless of position.

There is a spendy hub seal that your supposed to replace any time you take the unit bearing off the truck (which usually means the unit bearing took a dump anywayz).

I have a dynatrac conversion on my axle, gives me a fixed spindle and regular timken bearings, and manual warn hubs. But thats 1700 bucks alone. 3000 if you want crossover steering.

:redneck: is that what those little hoses are for running down with the brake lines? ...... with the truck having a 10'' lift on it they dont reach...and just the fact that they have always been like like that since i got it...never bothered to figured it out cause its just a street bitch/tow rig...2 years iv had it...it hasnt had 4 wheel drive :awesomework: makes alot sence huh

:redneck:cause if they are are that might be the reason the air vents just blow out the top and both hubs have always sucked?
 
On my '99, there was two settings: Auto and manual. In auto, they were vacuum activated, or you could turn them in manually. I replaced them with Warn manual hubs, stripped out all the vacuum lines and capped the port on the vacuum pump. Problem solved. :redneck:
 
You must be talking about some automatic hub crap because manual hubs have none of this.

The majority of the superduties have an auto/manual hub. They are in auto most of the time, and you can manually turn them in if the vacuum system, or hub seal fails. Pretty much all your XLT and Lariat packages with the 4x4 switch on the dash.

The 100% manual hubs are kinda rare. Usually just XL trim package plain janes with manual t-case unless it was an XLT or lariat specifically ordered with manual t-case/hubs.
 
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