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Dovetailing My YJ

caglezxj

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When I purchased the jeep I knew I would be dovetailing it and finishing out the rear tube chassis. Just didn't plan on it being so soon. Little flop at Mountainside inspired me to move on with it. Due to crushing the rear quarter panel in. So I have got the rear floor pan and wheel wells out. After my morning hunt I plan on bending up some tubing while it is a little warmer out. I have a heated shop but can't bend tubing in it with the jeep inside. I will bend a few of my bigger tubes first and move on from there. I liked the way Madrams old jeep looked with the rear tub skinned back I plan on trying it on mine. I am no body man but will try to make it look the best I can. After all of this is done I will paint the interior roll cage silver and the outside body panels Burnt Orange. I will update as often as I can. I feel safer welding the roll cage to the main frame. I do see a buggy in my near future. :eek:

The way the jeep was when I purchased it
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The way it is sitting now
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Notice the big chunk of bondo missing. I hit the inside with a hammer. I will be taking it all down to bare metal. :drinkers:
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not really. my buddy had to have his frame notched to clear 2.0 air shox.....then they just decided to tube the rear totally
 
I would say no. Off Road Connection Had already cut the rear frame out and tubed the back half of the frame. It was moved in a few inches. I will try to get better pictures today , used my camera phone for the others.
 
I got a lot done today. Finished removing all the tub/floorboard . Bent my hoop for the rear dovetail and trimmed rear fenders.

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I didn't make my afternoon hunt due to trying to get as much of this done before Dec 6th Toys For Tots Ride.

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Here is one more. I hope to finish most of the tubing tomorrow. I still have to brace it to the tube chassis and add support pieces in.

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How would you guys brace the back of this cage? Make a X pattern on the very back. Add a piece across the top with a 60* bend in the middle? I would like it to have a good look but be functional also. Here is the back shot again that I am going to be bracing tomorrow. I will use some photo software and show you what I am thinking.

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generally you look for nodes. where your new uppers dove into teh B pillar, I might have made them right on the other side of the B as the forward bars that go A to B. Not terribly important now, and this is a 1 time use cage. Do you have frame tie ins on your factory roll bar? looks like the second pic in the first progress post from tonight says no. I'd tie those in, and then in the back do something directly below your upper bars you have there down to the frame. why not tie the top of the shock hoops into the node of the top of tub bar today and the factory roll bar? even if you do plate it in the back, put 2 tubes on either side and then use thinner plate. I'd go from end of bend on your new upper tubes today to center of factory roll bar, 1 from each side.
 
blacksheep10 said:
generally you look for nodes. where your new uppers dove into teh B pillar, I might have made them right on the other side of the B as the forward bars that go A to B. Not terribly important now, and this is a 1 time use cage. Do you have frame tie ins on your factory roll bar? looks like the second pic in the first progress post from tonight says no. I'd tie those in, and then in the back do something directly below your upper bars you have there down to the frame. why not tie the top of the shock hoops into the node of the top of tub bar today and the factory roll bar? even if you do plate it in the back, put 2 tubes on either side and then use thinner plate. I'd go from end of bend on your new upper tubes today to center of factory roll bar, 1 from each side.


The factory/modified cage isn't tied into the frame. This is another thing I was going to do. I forgot to add in the photo shopped picture I had planned on going from the frame and shock hoops in a few places to the new dovetail tube. I knew I was going to do that but was wondering how you guys would brace the rest. I had also thought about adding a brace from the top bar over to the b-pillar, I just couldn't get it to look right the other way. I have a set of dimple dies I had planned on making some nice gussets and blocking some of the corners in. I will let a few other tell me what they think before adding them in tomorrow.
 
I got a good bit done today but didn't finish. I still have to tie the rear dovetail into the lower frame and into the shock hoops. I couldn't get a good idea on how I wanted to do that. Maybe after a little rest it will come to me. I was also thinking of adding another bar on top , it will go from the top roll bars to the b-pillar. I will do one up in photoshop and let me know what you think. My main thing is I want it to be strong for those small flops, but in case something goes wrong and it has multiples rolls I would like to know it can take it. The back bottom bars that attach to the frame will have more bars added for support. Those will be used to attach my plate for my tail lights.

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Here is a picture that I photo shopped some bars in. Would this help strengthen it up by going straight to the b-pillar & a-pillar attachment?

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please just stop adding tube while your ahead..... ::)

have u liiked at the first pic you posted lately.... i mean damn...
clean jeep, nice tub.... why???
 
did you read where I crushed the rear quarter panel in? I am going to 44's and 42" was rubbing already. dovetailed was something I like on rigs. why do you do the things you do? :flipoff1:

Here is a picture of the rear quarter panel. and you can't see it so well but the rear bar pushed down the inside of the tub. So by me cutting the old out and redoing it I have solid support to the frame.

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Please don't take offense, but it looks like your just adding tube to the back, and not really thinking about it. Other than tube placement, I like it. I always have liked the look of a dovetail.
 
TwinStick said:
Please don't take offense, but it looks like your just adding tube to the back, and not really thinking about it. Other than tube placement, I like it. I always have liked the look of a dovetail.

I am really thinking about tube placement. No offense taken. The top main bars into the main roll bar didn't look right going into the a-b connection. I will add the bars in green to help support a side roll and to help it from hanging on a tree, etc. I looked at Madrams and a few others off of pirate. The lower back bars is more for looks as it will be supported more towards the frame when I am finished. What would you have done different? Thats why I asked.
 
I would have kicked the b to c pillar bar out more towards the outside of the jeep. And then, I would have moved most of the ones you've put in just a little to go to the node of the bend. If you look at yours, most of the bars do not intersect, and are just to the side of the adjacent tube. Like the ones in the rear, from the frame up, that are about a foot long. Kick those out to the rear to meet the tube coming down, which will create a much stronger section. The way you have it now, in a hard roll could cause the tube to shear. And the tubes that go up on the side at about a 45* angle. I would have made them go up to the center of the bend for strength. I however, and no king of fab, and could be way of base here.
 
I agree with you on a few of the things. Thats why I will be adding another bar on the outside of my new uppers to the b-pillar. As for the bottom hoop to the frame I haven't started making the support brackets yet and if it hits the 90 wrong it is cause there will be another piece added and dimple died plates fill in the space. I know you can't see what my plans are but there is still much more I plan on doing. Maybe I will get more time this weekend to get the lower bracing finished. The back lowers again is not for support. I will be adding that in this week.
 

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