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Few Updates to the TJ

if they are short enough for the front of mine i will buy them.
 
Joe they are 2" ers just like I told you Keith had... yes that will be your best bet up front.
 
matt let me know how much i will take them. john if you can use 3 inch air bumps i have two brand new fox with cans for sale they are a little to long for mine
 
More pics

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For Ken
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Dash Bar
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tonka toy said:
matt let me know how much i will take them. john if you can use 3 inch air bumps i have two brand new fox with cans for sale they are a little to long for mine

Sounds like a damn swap meet. I can use 3" or 4" I think. How much? What is uncompressed and compressed length?
 
HAHAHA , **** Matt you do love those Maxxis tires, fugger even fenced the Jeep off so the inlaws cant get to it !! :flipoff1:
 
Actually the jeep is residing at my residence this week. Since I had little crap to do for KOTH and the parents are gone I brought it over here and left my trailer at Joe's shop. That way less travelling around after work on Friday to get the damn thing and time to work on it at night! It is sitting literally 30ft from where I sleep, I am stoked ;D
 
John Galbreath Jr. said:
Sounds like a damn swap meet. I can use 3" or 4" I think. How much? What is uncompressed and compressed length?


$$$$$$$$$ ???????????? Are these the 4", I don't see any 3". Only 2" and 4"
 
The 4" and 3" are the same length. The 3" has a spacer that allows the bumpt to only compress 3", the 4" does not have a spacer. So if you bought the 3" and wanted 4" just pull the internal spacer and you are good to go
 
So riding in Tellico really opened my eyes as to what the TJ is capable of. It made a the ledge on Schoobus that only comp buggies made and it would have walked it if the rear was not so heavy. So, I started thinking about how I could trim the fat on the rig and decided to put it on a diet. I weighed it a while back fully loaded out with about 1/4 tank of gas, soft doors and tools/spares it was 4,540lbs, 100 of that was tools, spares and cooler. I was thinking about cutting a bunch of weight off like the front stinger, back porch, misc stock mounts, heavy battery tray, etc. Also would like to move the coilovers up front and air shocks in the back. This would drop about 50lbs in the back and also net me 3-4" more travel in the rear since air shocks have a smaller diameter which means more room before it hits the frame. Plenty of room for coilovers in the front, and the weight would be a wash since I would be losing a bunch of heavy bracketry, coils and shocks. Was also thinking air bumps up there if I had enough coin. The last step would be unbolting anything not neeeded to save weight and possibly going with a Chris Durham fiberglass hood with integrated fenders. It weighs in at 12lbs and my current front hood and tube fenders probably weighs 200. Any ideas on other stuff I can ditch with minimal cost involved? WE Aluminum beadlocks would be nice and I am going to save for them as they are expensive.

Me and my buddy Wayne did some work today. Ditched the following parts:

Sound Bar - 15lbs
Rear Storage Rack - 45 lbs
Steel Fairlead - 5lbs
Trimmed Down the Tool/Spares - 25lbs
Misc Stuff (Cruise Control, Stock Battery Box, etc.) - 10lbs

Also found out that my soft doors weigh in at 15lbs each, I am guessing the windshield frame is 70lbs or so. Also cutting off the "back porch" will net me about 60lbs and front stinger and braces are about 20lbs,. So I got the easy weight off, the rest requires money and labor ;D
 
Almost forget the motor has been running like **** lately so I had TK help me with new plugs, wires, cap and button on Saturday. I cleaned the air filter and the TB on Sunday, holy crap what a difference it all made. This thing is running good now, hopefully it will turn up like it did before!!!
 
BamaTJ said:
Almost forget the motor has been running like **** lately so I had TK help me with new plugs, wires, cap and button on Saturday. I cleaned the air filter and the TB on Sunday, holy crap what a difference it all made. This thing is running good now, hopefully it will turn up like it did before!!!

Amazing how some routine maint will make an engine run :flipoff1: Glad you did that, she was acting real doggy in Tellico.

Good work on the diet son !! 8)
 
my junk could stand to loose a few pounds as well......

try to keep a somewhat accurate track of how much you loose....could be interesting

Brian
 
Finally the back porch or the screened porch, whatever you want to call it, is gone! That **** goes fast with a plasma the biggest hammer (aka John Henry) I have ever seen in my life. Was very easy, only took about an hour of work to cut off the old and paint the new. I think it looks much more better. Lost 50lbs :o

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is there anything connecting that rear crossmember to the frame rails in a direction other than parrallell (ie, the crossmember itself?) reason I ask is that if you pull hard on that lug in the middle and there isn't a small strut rod going from the inside of that crossmember to the frame rails (like forward at a 45* diagonal hitting a rail farther up) it might taco straight back.
 
blacksheep10 said:
is there anything connecting that rear crossmember to the frame rails in a direction other than parrallell (ie, the crossmember itself?) reason I ask is that if you pull hard on that lug in the middle and there isn't a small strut rod going from the inside of that crossmember to the frame rails (like forward at a 45* diagonal hitting a rail farther up) it might taco straight back.

That is what I would be worried about too because the stock rear crossmember is pretty thin stuff.
 

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