CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
x2!!
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Help me decide my (RC) fate...
- Thread starter Boonie Buster
- Start date
x2!!
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
not to jack a thread, but here is my WK beater. it works well and recieves no mercy!! it has a 37T integy cuz I like to jam. these pics should give you an idea of what to do with shafts and links. notice the stock PLASTIC knuckles and Cs. I have three WKs in the house and never needed a knuckle or axle parts!:beer: since building a big rig I seem to run the WK faster now.
what about this rc rock racing I heard of awile back:corn:
what about this rc rock racing I heard of awile back:corn:
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That is your opinion, and a rare one at that, how long have you been doing this?? I have seen it all since the beginning. I have a AX-10 for a basher on the rocks and yet to break it other than dropping a drive shaft. That was an easy fix for under $10. I was also smart enough to buy all the aluminum parts you need for a AX-10 too, That is a must for any crawler as you will progress and up the bar on the abuse these little guys go through.
I look at a crawler on how it will do for competing. RC competition will put a crawler though the toughest condition known to RC crawling. Many have found that out after they finally jumped in and tried RC competition. The AX-10 and the TLT are king in that arena. The TLT is the most expensive axle to build and there is a reason for that, they are the best and the strongest axle out there once built.
There is not a perfect out of the box crawler out there, and never will be compared to a crawler built from the ground up, just like in the 1:1 world. With that said, the best crawler built will also cost you an arm and a leg. I have a $800+ 2.2 comp rig that will run circles around most of the rigs out there. You can't just go buy one like this either, it was built over time from doing a lot of testing of what really work out there.
The best out of the box crawler ever made to this day is an AX-10. ask anybody who has done this for years. I just try to offer my advice from experience in RC crawling. I have been into this for over 4 years now, take my advice for what it is worth.
I see a great basher there, come out to a comp or one of our GTG's and we can see how well it will do. Why do you think crash had to step it up? Because he saw what it takes to run with the big dogs. :; :haha:
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
OH MAN! this is not going to end up like a "buy a dana 60 or you are an idiot" threads...
I wont have it! some of us have lives enough to NOT spend $800+ on a TOY CAR!!!:fawkdancesmiley: :haha:
If it works for chop shop, good deal. I don't need anything fancy, and i dont need "the best" to compete :awesomework:
I wont have it! some of us have lives enough to NOT spend $800+ on a TOY CAR!!!:fawkdancesmiley: :haha: If it works for chop shop, good deal. I don't need anything fancy, and i dont need "the best" to compete :awesomework:
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
I dont compete in 1:1 or 1:10. it doesnt appeal to me. I competed with my wheeler a few years ago I paid money for entry fees sat in line all day then ran and it was over. WOW WHAT FUN. I can go to the trails and no entry fees no line and I can go again if I want. SWEET!!
if I ever did compete it would be with my super, just to see how it compares to others. gtg= great! comp=dont appeal to me.
1st place or fun place?? fun:awesomework: I dont have more than 500 into any of my rigs and wiat a minute, yep they are still fun.
the only rule I have built by is this= it needs to look like a truck or buggy/rig. no electronics on my axles. no battery on my axles. I am selling the clod cuz it looks stupid with the motors hanging on the axles
uke:
some of these things I see going to COMPS look more like BATTLEBOTS than rc crawlers
if I ever did compete it would be with my super, just to see how it compares to others. gtg= great! comp=dont appeal to me.
1st place or fun place?? fun:awesomework: I dont have more than 500 into any of my rigs and wiat a minute, yep they are still fun.
the only rule I have built by is this= it needs to look like a truck or buggy/rig. no electronics on my axles. no battery on my axles. I am selling the clod cuz it looks stupid with the motors hanging on the axles
uke: some of these things I see going to COMPS look more like BATTLEBOTS than rc crawlers
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
agreed! I want it to resemble a vehicle, not a "stick"uke:
uke:
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
agreed! I want it to resemble a vehicle, not a "stick"
x2:awesomework:
its funny how all the guys I run with have full scale trucks and thier rcs look the same. but when you meet nerds, yes NERDS at the hobby shop they have no clue about real trucks. they are into toys not trucks. and they dont understand my reasoning behind my build. I DONT COMPETE.
I thought by reading some of boonies earlier posts that other features were nore important than competing!:redneck:
I would like to learn more about the scale class also but think too much is spent on fake winches and canoes etcto appeal to me.
I argue with folks about the stupid stick chassis rigs too. they are ugly and stupid, even if they work well its not for me.
get that WK, boonie I can help ya. then come over have a beer and we can thrash my rock garden with no penalties or lines just fun and **** talkin!!:beer:
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
sounds like you are on the same wave length as i am:awesomework: keep it realistic, but not TOO "realistic" ya, when i get it finished up i will let you know and we can kick it
TrikeKid
Well-Known Member
agreed! I want it to resemble a vehicle, not a "stick"
If I had the money/time for something else, it wouldn't have. I had the crap in the shop to build that one, so that's what I did. That, and I can't build a 4-link to save my life.
bulzeye
Well-Known Member
i've been pricing building my ax10 axles up compared to building up my tlt axles and the AX10 axle is going to cost me more to build up than my tlt axle will be.
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
i am not saying the stock is bad, it's just not my first choice, I am a "realistic" kinda RC "wheeler" :redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ny rig works extreemly well :awesomework:
bulzeye
Well-Known Member
yay fir you
how did you figure that??
TLT axles are more expensive than Axial to begin with.
Built TLT axles. (what I did)
RCP Crawlers TLT Axle Kit Stage 1 (bearings) $89.49
RCP Crawlers copper alloy locker w/solid stainless pinion $28.99 X 2= $57.98
RCP Crawlers TLT CVD Axles By MIP $49.99 X 2= $99.98
MSD ultimate axle C's $29
Straight Axle Adaptor for TLT-1 Axle $25.00
Inet RC TLT-1 Alloy Knuckle Arms $24.99
grand total of $326.95 before shipping costs. <<<<<<<<<<
Built Axial axles ( what 99% of most people do)
Axial AX10 Locked Axle Set (1 axle) $39.99 X 2= $79.98
RCP Crawlers AX10 Max Clearance Knuckle (1 pair) $28.99
RCP Crawlers AX10 2 Position Clockable Axle C (1 pair) $28.99
Axial Racing AX10 Heavy Duty Diff Locker (1 pair) $12.49 X 2= $24.98
RCP AX10 black anodized straight axle adaptors (1 pair) $28.99
RCP AX10 Stainless Steel Straight Axle (1 pair) $23.99
Axial Racing AX10 Heavy Duty Gear Set (1) $21.99 X 2= $43.98
grand total $259.50 before shipping costs. <<<<<<<<<
did miss something here??
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
You spent too much on your tlt axles doug....
Cases $10
Bearing set $20
RCP Crawlers copper alloy locker w/solid stainless pinion $28.99 X 2= $57.98
Staright axles $24
RCP Crawlers TLT CVD Axles By MIP $49.99
MSD ultimate axle C's $29
Straight Axle Adaptor for TLT-1 Axle $25.00
Inet RC TLT-1 Alloy Knuckle Arms $24.99
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
you guys are ****ing crazy:flipoff: thats what my girls crawler cost to build me complete!!:eeek: too much for just axles
thats half the price of a set of longs:beer:
bulzeye
Well-Known Member
the only price difference is in the MIP CVD's which you don't have an upgraded axle listed for the ax10's. if you bought two cvd's like you did for your tlt axles the ax10 would be more expensive.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
maybe, I have had my axles for a long time and they did come in a kit, which was a little cheaper than that where you can get then now, I also run CVD's front and rear. I have broke everything else at the base of where the threads end. That has happened in a few bad roll overs off a cliff and down a pile of rocks. That is how I found out why some guys run the CVD's in the rear. :;
