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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
HudonCustoms gets new shop!
- Thread starter Maverick26
- Start date
k2blazen
Well-Known Member
OHHMMMM SOME STEAM WALLS
I built one like ur demensions 2 yrs ago took about $23k after all the tree/stump removal renting machinery put cathiedral trusses in just for a feature 2 post lift with 6sak concrete in the center were they would go had to do everything up to tacoma code which they wanted the garage looking like the house got rid of 15 yrds of dirt the problem was this land was all arsenic soil so that was fun head ach from the smelter .work progressive can't wait to see it done:awesomework:
I built one like ur demensions 2 yrs ago took about $23k after all the tree/stump removal renting machinery put cathiedral trusses in just for a feature 2 post lift with 6sak concrete in the center were they would go had to do everything up to tacoma code which they wanted the garage looking like the house got rid of 15 yrds of dirt the problem was this land was all arsenic soil so that was fun head ach from the smelter .work progressive can't wait to see it done:awesomework:
ish
Well-Known Member
Don't forget the 4" pipe to go under the footing to drain water out( assuming you have a way of releasing the water somewhere, and 4" sleeve through the wall for sewer and a 2" sleeve for water in and another 2" sleeve for hot water out, to go to the outside hose bib to wash stuff off in the wither (warm is nice). I just built my shop last summer, so I am just rambling on. Stuff just comes to mind. I had 24" stem walls and a 8" x 16" footing. Can't tell in the picture of the forms, but leave the rebar long where the floor will be poured over the the footing where the doors are. You can bend them over and they will go into the floor to tie it all together. I have no experience at building, these are things that people told me to do when i built my house and shop last summer. I did my own dig (own excavator), and did my own foundation (company I work for had the forms for free) I have never been around anything like it, so it was a learning experience. Watch everything they do because some day you will build one again, but bigger!! - Wow look at me blah blah blah!!!
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I wish I had floor heat. :booo: Thanks for the info. I'll keep you in mind When/if I build another.
As previously mentioned, anchor points in the floor would be a good addition. You can use them to strap a car down for your dyno. :redneck:
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
I am not going to put a shitter in it but I will have hot and cold water inside and outside for a sink and a hose bib. The walls are 14' tall so there will be no issue with the lift and trolly hoist system. I had no plans on doing a heated floor so I think I am just going to tough it out with a wood stove and electric heater. It will have piped air all the way around, HVAC for welding and plasma table, plenty of tall racks to store **** off the floor. I have to think LEAN so I dont get crowded out of 24x36. I am also pooring a 10x20 slab out front of the doors. It will be cool.
ish
Well-Known Member
What kind of doors?
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
I'm not that far yet but I was thinking roll up style.
ish
Well-Known Member
So the door openings are only going to be 12'?
pos97TJ
Well-Known Member
12' outa be plenty I dont see him pullin an RV in there:redneck: I just recently built my shop on my property. Nice for overhead but terrible for the honeydos'.... :haha: Congrats on the new shop:awesomework:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
You can say that again....you've seen my shop--it's 24x36, 15ft to the truss....You run outta room QUICK!!!:haha:
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
Im not in Silvana... I am on a hill.
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
Concrete is being poorer right now for just the foundation. All forming and concrete work is being done by Northern Foundation.
After the concrete is done it's all on me to get it done.
After the concrete is done it's all on me to get it done.
I would do the 12 foot door ,looks good at this rate you should have it built by next weekend
Jay W
Well-Known Member
Go 12x12. You'll kick yourself later for trying to save a few hundred bucks now.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
Thats the exact size my shop is. I never have enough room. Except I think I have 13 or 14 feet to the trusses. Works fine with w lift tho. Even with a loft and a 12x36 carport down one side it still fills up fast.
Go bigger
I have a 12 x12 rollup door. It still gets jammed with trailers and crap.
I got my door with a commercial belt drive opener for $100 out of the Buy&Sell.
It didnt have rollers or hinges but that **** was cheap.
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
long story...
I just talked with my engineer, about 3 months ago I had him draw up a 24x36 shop with 12' walls.. I talked to a few guys and they said go with 14' walls. The problem was by this time I already had the permits submitted to the county. This should be an easy fix to just make a revision to the drawing and I should be good right? Wrong.
Engineering says that if I jump from 12' to 14' I would have to make the footing bigger in the concrete, have a larger shear walls, more hold down straps, larger headers and king studs... blah blah blah... so It looks like I am stuck with 12' walls and 10' doors for this shop.
I know it does not sound like much to some of you guys but I am curently working in one end of a horse barn with no doors, no heat, fawked up wet concrete floor that is not level at the size of 12x24. I am excited!!
I just talked with my engineer, about 3 months ago I had him draw up a 24x36 shop with 12' walls.. I talked to a few guys and they said go with 14' walls. The problem was by this time I already had the permits submitted to the county. This should be an easy fix to just make a revision to the drawing and I should be good right? Wrong.
Engineering says that if I jump from 12' to 14' I would have to make the footing bigger in the concrete, have a larger shear walls, more hold down straps, larger headers and king studs... blah blah blah... so It looks like I am stuck with 12' walls and 10' doors for this shop.
I know it does not sound like much to some of you guys but I am curently working in one end of a horse barn with no doors, no heat, fawked up wet concrete floor that is not level at the size of 12x24. I am excited!!
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
Everybody told me to plumb in a wood stove too.
But at the old shop I got tired of the stove taking up floor space, people always leave their garbage on top of the stove (cuz its always clean on there) so ya always gotta clean it off before stating a fire. Then ya always got a woody splintery mess of chips and sawdust on the floor. The stove always seemed to be the heart of the mess.
No More.
When we demoed the old trailer house I kept the old furnace. It was electric and blows down into the floor. I just built a shelf up high in the corner above the electric panel (to save on wiring length/cost) and now I just turn the heat on and point the duct where ever I want and never have wood/mess on the floor and I have no floor space lost to a stove.
But at the old shop I got tired of the stove taking up floor space, people always leave their garbage on top of the stove (cuz its always clean on there) so ya always gotta clean it off before stating a fire. Then ya always got a woody splintery mess of chips and sawdust on the floor. The stove always seemed to be the heart of the mess.
No More.
When we demoed the old trailer house I kept the old furnace. It was electric and blows down into the floor. I just built a shelf up high in the corner above the electric panel (to save on wiring length/cost) and now I just turn the heat on and point the duct where ever I want and never have wood/mess on the floor and I have no floor space lost to a stove.
