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Hypothetical question?

Dirt700

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New buggy is gonna have a 14 bolt front. I was messing around with east coast gear and WOD axle builder on their websites. I can build a front with 40 spline shafts and ctm joints for about a 1000 cheaper, than 35 spline with 300m rcv's. I know the 40 spline will still be a one ton joint and that has been discussed hundreds of times. Just trying to check all options. Seems like it is usually the shafts that break, so having the larger shaft would make up for not having 300m. I could do 35 spline stuff with ctm joints and if I start breaking them get 300m rcv's and have spares.

Just wondering which route would be better if I could save money up front it would get my buggy finished sooner, I know there are lots of buggies out there that don't have rcv axles and take a beating like the Bacon's. I am still running Spicer joints in a lp 60, so all of it is an upgrade for me
 
What knuckles are you going to run?

If I were building a full custom front axle I'd make sure it was capable of running 40 spline shafts and Rockwell size joints...


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Thats all a matter of $ vs HP vs Driving style... everything breaks at some point when HPs are involved. How much motor is it taking to break RCVs ? Best I ever had was 35spl chromos and longfields with a **** motor. :flipoff1:
 
TBItoy said:
What knuckles are you going to run?

If I were building a full custom front axle I'd make sure it was capable of running 40 spline shafts and Rockwell size joints...


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Solid if I use ecgs and crane if I use WOD, I'm sure I will be fine with 35 spline stuff. 6.0 with gm hot cam, so realistically 425hp?
 
P said:
Thats all a matter of $ vs HP vs Driving style... everything breaks at some point when HPs are involved. How much motor is it taking to break RCVs ? Best I ever had was 35spl chromos and longfields with a **** motor. :flipoff1:
I think I drive like an old lady compared to most people. I'm not going to race, it's just a trail bouncer.
 
I'm probably just over thinking it. I'm sure the 4340 with ctm joints in 35 spline would work for me, but the 300m would take away any doubt. I may call both tomorrow and get actual prices, maybe I can't get a better deal than the internet price.
 
Dirt700 said:
Solid if I use ecgs and crane if I use WOD, I'm sure I will be fine with 35 spline stuff. 6.0 with gm hot cam, so realistically 425hp?

pretty big price difference in price on those two types of knuckles
 
smbroady82 said:
pretty big price difference in price on those two types of knuckles
Ecgs with spool and 4340 American stubs and ctm, solid c and knuckles $7205
WOD with spool and Yukon with super joints, crane c and knuckles $7595
 
Dirt700 said:
Ecgs with spool and 4340 American stubs and ctm, solid c and knuckles $7205
WOD with spool and Yukon with super joints, crane c and knuckles $7595

pretty close overall !
I was looking more at the individual knuckle cost.

I looked at swapping all my goodies onto a 14b front, but would still have to invest 2-3k to basically swap diffs from 60 to 14b

one day I'll build a big boy axle thumb.gif
 
Personally, for as much as shafts cost, I would run the 300M RCV's. They're tremendously strong to begin with and if you would happen to break one, it'll get replaced for free. Whenever I get around to building a 14b front, I will try my best to make it fit my current shafts.
 
I talked with alot of people when I built my front axle. The only reason I didn't got 40 spline 14 bolt is I was told if you really feel like you "need" 40 spline you will end up going 2 inch. The 300m stuff is pretty comparable to the 40 spline chromoly. I have seen the 40 spline fronts break more than once. But those 300m 35 splines take a beating. If you are running a lp 60 now and not breaking stubs or ring and pinions every trip I would go 300m
 
Beerj said:
Personally, for as much as shafts cost, I would run the 300M RCV's. They're tremendously strong to begin with and if you would happen to break one, it'll get replaced for free. Whenever I get around to building a 14b front, I will try my best to make it fit my current shafts.
That's the biggest reason I went with the hp 60. Already had the shafts knuckles brakes etc. To fit the 14 I would have to do some chassis tweaking then I was gonna try to reuse as much of my lp stuff as I could. Everyone I talked with said if I went to the hp chunk with treated gears the 35 spline stub would be my weakest part. It would be the same with the 14 bolt. If you are building a 14 bolt from scratch it just makes more sense to go to the bigger stuff.
 
smbroady82 said:
pretty close overall !
I was looking more at the individual knuckle cost.

I looked at swapping all my goodies onto a 14b front, but would still have to invest 2-3k to basically swap diffs from 60 to 14b

one day I'll build a big boy axle thumb.gif
Originally I was going to part out the buggy I have now and do that. Just use my knuckles and hubs. But I think I would be better off to sell a usable buggy, I would end up with more money. I was going to end up just using rear axle, engine, steering, and a few odd and end things.
 
Beerj said:
Personally, for as much as shafts cost, I would run the 300M RCV's. They're tremendously strong to begin with and if you would happen to break one, it'll get replaced for free. Whenever I get around to building a 14b front, I will try my best to make it fit my current shafts.
Yea, that was my gut feeling is to go 300. But my wallet was thinking I could run some cheaper shafts
 
BUG-E J said:
I talked with alot of people when I built my front axle. The only reason I didn't got 40 spline 14 bolt is I was told if you really feel like you "need" 40 spline you will end up going 2 inch. The 300m stuff is pretty comparable to the 40 spline chromoly. I have seen the 40 spline fronts break more than once. But those 300m 35 splines take a beating. If you are running a lp 60 now and not breaking stubs or ring and pinions every trip I would go 300m
I thought about going with an hp 60, because yours takes a hell of a beating. The super duty 60s are still fairly cheap. But on the same hand if I do a 14 with 300m, 35 spline, I will be set. And if I ever sell it will help as well.
 
Dirt700 said:
I thought about going with an hp 60, because yours takes a hell of a beating. The super duty 60s are still fairly cheap. But on the same hand if I do a 14 with 300m, 35 spline, I will be set. And if I ever sell it will help as well.
Look into the newer super 60. Buddy of mine just bought one and that thing is BEEF. That way if you do feel like you need 2 inch stuff you already have the bigger knuckles etc. Hell if you can run passanger drop you won't even have to tube it.
 
BUG-E J said:
Look into the newer super 60. Buddy of mine just bought one and that thing is BEEF. That way if you do feel like you need 2 inch stuff you already have the bigger knuckles etc. Hell if you can run passanger drop you won't even have to tube it.
My new tcase is driver drop. You talking about the 05+ axles?
 
I am not sure it will make you feel any better but on my RCV double spline 14 bolt shafts (not steering axle) in my buggy I have went back to the 4340 from the 300M after breaking 3 of them and no failures yet. Seems to me the 300M is more brittle then the 4340 and won't take a shock load as much. Maybe its just my setup but I haven't had a failure since.

My D60 RCV setup I had at one time was pretty close to the same. I busted the ball on two of them, to my understanding they are 300M. My inner shafts were 4340 and stubs were 300M I busted atleast 4 stubs. To be fair once I had my axle out from under there we found a busted weld in the front end and no doubt that could have been shock loading the shafts.
 
Dirt700 said:
My new tcase is driver drop. You talking about the 05+ axles?
That was supposed to be cant. It's a driver drop axle. Hang on I'll ask on the years and some of the specs but the knuckles are the size of a liter a cola :****:
 
BUG-E J said:
That was supposed to be cant. It's a driver drop axle. Hang on I'll ask on the years and some of the specs but the knuckles are the size of a liter a cola :****:

There is an extensive thread on Pirate with most all super duty axle info that you could want.

There are 2 sizes of 05+ 60, the F250/350 and the F350wide body/F450/550. The are HUGE and HUGER, respectively.

Hell even the stock shafts for the F250/350 have 1550 u-joints now.

I bought a set of new OEM 1550 shafts, assembled with seals and spicer ujoints for $400 (not a special deal, thats just how much they cost)

They are not chromo, but I figured for the $ they would be a good stop-gap before going to high dollar chromoly shafts.(if I ever get to use them ::) )
 
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