ID small chevy

[Lamar]

So who wants a 454 to build up? Going to sell or part my '82 with 454/TH400 in a month or so. I'm looking for a cube van to put all my stuff in so I can get rid of the 5th wheel that I bought this Chev to haul.

Dear junkyard jim;
Would you happen to know the casting # of your 454 block my friend? Personally, I would never touch a SBC or Ford. Those are for girly men. Real men play around with big blocks and Hemis.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[junkyard jim]

Not sure on the casting number. It is a smogger motor with an Edelbrock on it. I figure it's still worth $800. It's 2wd but it has the 1 ton TH400 with bolt on yoke.
It's made me a few $$$ over the past couple years since I bought it since it can haul 5th wheel and a LOT of scrap metal in one load.

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

When we built the race motor for our sprint car, we started with a 2 bolt main block and added splayed caps. The result is a stronger bottom end than a standard 4 bolt main. We did this because sprint cars run Methanol and have a higher compression ratio (18:1) than gas fed motors. We ran the same block all season long, running 30 lap mains at WOT and never had any issues. :corn:

 

[Lamar]

When we built the race motor for our sprint car, we started with a 2 bolt main block and added splayed caps. The result is a stronger bottom end than a standard 4 bolt main. We did this because sprint cars run Methanol and have a higher compression ratio (18:1) than gas fed motors. We ran the same block all season long, running 30 lap mains at WOT and never had any issues. :corn:

Dear Jeepasaurusrex;
My point exactly, my friend. You can go to any junkyard and buy 2 bolt SBC motors for next to nothing, install a set of 4 bolt splayed main caps in it and have a far superior block than a factory 4 bolt main SBC for far less money!

It seems that people tend to get hung up on those ol' urban legends. For example, if you are able to locate a pair of original camel hump heads, the price you'll end up paying for a pair of them will be exorbitantly prohibitive IF they aren't cracked (which is a very big IF).

I've seen a pair of camel humps selling for 2,500$ that supposedly weren't cracked, yet why anyone would drop that sort of $$$ for a pair of stock heads is beyond my comprehension.

Certainly, the camel hump heads were the most highly sought after cylinder heads around when I was a kid in the 70s and the *202s* (the camel humps with the 2.02 intake valves as opposed to the camel humps with the 1.96 intakes) always commanded top dollar.

Today, with the blossoming high performance aftermarket manufacturers, you can purchase a pair of cylinder heads which far exceeds the performance specs of the camel hump heads for far less money. Any decent high performance heads can be bought for under 1,500$ (in aluminum, even!) which will blow a pair of camel humps heads completely away.

Yet, the ol' urban myths live on! People still assume, that since their Uncle Pete brags about how hot his camel humped 4 bolt SBC was in his 68 Camaro, that this must be the only way to go.

If a person is truly serious about high performance on a tight budget, there exists all manner of tricks to squeeze the last foot pound of torque from an SBC without maxing out the credit cards in the process. All it takes is some diligent planning ahead of time and some frugal spending habits.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

But it had "ram horn" manifolds too! It must be fast...........................:jerkit2:

 

[joshwho?]

But it had "ram horn" manifolds too! It must be fast...........................:jerkit2:

The 947whp/958ftlb 355 I was talking about made THOSE figures with ram horn manifolds! Purists would kill me because they started as New Old Stock manifolds with the big wing to bolt the A/C compressor to... but I cut that crap off! :fawkdancesmiley: I will sat that the manifolds did cut into the top-end by 100hp or better, but down low the difference was amazing!

 

[messix]

The 947whp/958ftlb 355 I was talking about made THOSE figures with ram horn manifolds! Purists would kill me because they started as New Old Stock manifolds with the big wing to bolt the A/C compressor to... but I cut that crap off! :fawkdancesmiley: I will sat that the manifolds did cut into the top-end by 100hp or better, but down low the difference was amazing!

what kind of power adder was used?

no way n/a and with out blown, turbo or nitrous.

 

[Binder]

The 947whp/958ftlb 355 I was talking about made THOSE figures with ram horn manifolds! Purists would kill me because they started as New Old Stock manifolds with the big wing to bolt the A/C compressor to... but I cut that crap off! :fawkdancesmiley: I will sat that the manifolds did cut into the top-end by 100hp or better, but down low the difference was amazing!

I see those 2 1/2" rams horns on the local craigs list now and then for IIRC $175. You can still buy them from GM too.

 

[Binder]

what kind of power adder was used?

no way n/a and with out blown, turbo or nitrous.

You won't get those numbers with nitrous either. HP and torque being nearly identical means the engine is turning fairly low RPMs near 5200 RPM. Forced induction required and probably SC.

 

[Lamar]

But it had "ram horn" manifolds too! It must be fast...........................:jerkit2:

Dear ain'tstuckjustresting;
Actually, the ram horn exhausts weren't all that shabby, nor were they rare. Shoot, our family 67 Bel Air 4 door had a 327 with ram horn exhausts on it. I honestly prefer cast iron exhaust manifolds to headers because when you unbolt a pair of cast iron exhausts they usually bolt right back up.

Not always so with headers. They tend to warp and can be a real PITA to bolt back up to the heads. And if you got a set of headers hot enough to glow? Forget it! Those badboys can be a major challenge to get bolted back up to the heads without leaks.

Also, cast iron exhausts retain heat much better than headers do and they do not need all of that dorky looking wrapping on them. Generally speaking, I'd prefer to use cast iron exhausts over header pipes, with one exception.

For some odd reason, fenderwell headers seemed to work very well for me. They'd warp as badly as the shorter tubed headers, but since the tubes were so long, it was generally very easy to twist & tug them back up to the heads.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[Lamar]

I see those 2 1/2" rams horns on the local craigs list now and then for IIRC $175. You can still buy them from GM too.

Dear binder;
You can order a pair of Wysco ram horns w/2.5" collectors from JEG'S for 142.99$.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wysco/938/MA035RAW/10002/-1
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[Lamar]

You won't get those numbers with nitrous either. HP and torque being nearly identical means the engine is turning fairly low RPMs near 5200 RPM. Forced induction required and probably SC.

Dear Binder;
Right. The horsepower output and the torque output always crosses at 5252 RPMs and both become identical at that exact point. That's the rule.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[Binder]

Dear binder;
You can order a pair of Wysco ram horns w/2.5" collectors from JEG'S for 142.99$.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wysco/938/MA035RAW/10002/-1
Your friend;
LAMAR

Good to know but those don't look like they have accessory bolt holes like the GM manifolds they now sell do have.

 

[joshwho?]

what kind of power adder was used?

no way n/a and with out blown, turbo or nitrous.

I was wondering how long it wouls take for someone to ask It was turbo'd. good parts where they were needed, stock 2.05 valve Dart heads and one big turbo that pushed 32psi on pump gas for that pull. That was a street car that got thousands of street miles. Actually the only time it's ever seen a trailer was headed to Hot Import Nights were it won "Hottest Performance Vehicle"

 

[Lamar]

You won't get those numbers with nitrous either. HP and torque being nearly identical means the engine is turning fairly low RPMs near 5200 RPM. Forced induction required and probably SC.

Dear Binder;
You won't pull those kinds of numbers with forced induction either my friend. Heck, I don't think it's possible even with a 6-71 AND juice! That would mean that the engine would be producing almost 2.70 ft. lbs. of torque per cubic inch of displacement! I'm not sure that even a Hemi can do those kinds of figures without a blower.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[joshwho?]

You won't get those numbers with nitrous either. HP and torque being nearly identical means the engine is turning fairly low RPMs near 5200 RPM. Forced induction required and probably SC.

Both of those numbers were below 5,500... hp/tq were prob right about DEAD EVEN at 5,252 :haha: It's been to 8,900 once... but I actually don't remember if that ****ed anything up, I want to say it hurt a valve spring.

 

[joshwho?]

Dear Binder;
Right. The horsepower output and the torque output always crosses at 5252 RPMs and both become identical at that exact point. That's the rule.
Your friend;
LAMAR

OH! You beat me to it! :haha:

 

[Lamar]

I was wondering how long it wouls take for someone to ask It was turbo'd. good parts where they were needed, stock 2.05 valve Dart heads and one big turbo that pushed 32psi on pump gas for that pull. That was a street car that got thousands of street miles. Actually the only time it's ever seen a trailer was headed to Hot Import Nights were it won "Hottest Performance Vehicle"

Dear joshwho?;
Would that be a typo, perhaps my friend? If I am not mistaken, and I very seldom am mistaken, there's not a turbo that produce 32 PSI of ploosh, nor would there be a engine capable to accepting that same 32 PSI, to say nothing of the intake, etc.

On a 454 BBC the MAXIMUM boost that I'd run would be 6 PSI with an 8-71 Roots. This would also be with an 8.0:1 compression ratio. At 6,000 RPMs the final static CR would be 12.4:1 which is the absolute best a person can hope to achieve before the big D (read that as DETONATION) takes over and causes everything from the intake up to go KA-BOOOOOOOOM!
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[Lamar]

Good to know but those don't look like they have accessory bolt holes like the GM manifolds they now sell do have.

Dear binder;
You're talking about the alt/gen mounting holes and brackets that are on the stockers. Yeah, pretty much everybody grinds those off and goes with either the head mounted brackets or the block mounted ones. An alternator would get just a tad more than a bit warm being directly mounted to an exhaust my friend.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[joshwho?]

Dear joshwho?;
Would that be a typo, perhaps my friend? If I am not mistaken, and I very seldom am mistaken, there's not a turbo that produce 32 PSI of ploosh, nor would there be a engine capable to accepting that same 32 PSI, to say nothing of the intake, etc.

On a 454 BBC the MAXIMUM boost that I'd run would be 6 PSI with an 8-71 Roots. This would also be with an 8.0:1 compression ratio. At 6,000 RPMs the final static CR would be 12.4:1 which is the absolute best a person can hope to achieve before the big D (read that as DETONATION) takes over and causes everything from the intake up to go KA-BOOOOOOOOM!
Your friend;
LAMAR

No typo. The engine has seen 36psi with me behind the wheel. It has right about 8.5:1 compression. The car is about 3500lbs and has trapped 150mph on 255 width drag radials through a 4l80e and has gone low nines with a 700r4 (yes, I did just say 700r4)