Kid got a toy

Youngbone · Nov 12, 2006

84Toyota4x4 said:
Looking good man! Rattle can is SO lame IMO.

Check your U-Joints. Also, look between the cab and the bed, is the bed bent in and touching the cab, thus rattling? That happened to me after hauling an engine once.

~T.J.

If the cab is bent? Which I can't really check right now unless I find a flashlight, then how do I fix it?

MIG'DHORSE · Nov 12, 2006

Youngbone said:
If the cab is bent? Which I can't really check right now unless I find a flashlight, then how do I fix it?

bend it back. or chop it

.

skinny_pedal · Nov 12, 2006

if i were i would, change all the fluids, give her a good tune up with valve adjustment, a timing chain set and you should be good. go from there. 22r's are very easy to work on. reallly you could buy one of those tool kits from shucks and tear the whole thing apart:redneck:

Rcbro · Nov 12, 2006

I'm 18 as well and just got a 80 yota that was in near mint condition. However the truck sat for so long everything is going wrong.

As stated, change all the fluids and a nice tune up makes a large improvement.

Good luck!

NotMatt · Nov 12, 2006

Nice lookin' truck. I agree with the others who said to leave the stock paint. That's one of the coolest factory decal sets, IMO... and a good color too.

I don't agree with all the people who say to SAS it right off the bat, especially since you're on a budget. You can do a LOT with an IFS rig, a little bit of lift (rear shackles and crank torsion bars or ball joint spacers, or a 1" body lift), some 33's and a rear locker. Ask spidertoy on the board here, that's how his rig is set up.

Do the important stuff first... timing chain, general maintenance, etc, then see where you stand as far as extra money for goodies goes. Personally, I think the biggest bang for your buck in the offroad side of things is going to be a rear locker of some sort. It will affect your street manners a bit, but it's nothing you can't get used to. Personally, I would weld the spider gears, but other inexpensive options include the Powertrax Lockright and the Aussie Locker.

Youngbone · Nov 12, 2006

I like the decals and everything, I just hate the rust that is all over the bed and just in random parts. There's even some rust on top of the cab, but I think I got a hell of a deal and I'm happy at the thought of ifnally just having a toyota, so I could care less what it looks like to be truely honest. I would just like it to look better than it does now eventually, but my main concern will be an engine tune up and changing out all of the fluids. I should probably change out the rear diff and front diff, as well as the transfer case right? Then I can do a manual transmission drain and fill. Coolant flushes are sorta spendy at Jiffy lube, but I guess I could come up with the money to do that too. Should I do the coolant flush after the timing chain is fixed?, or before? once again guys, thanks for all of your help, it's much appreciated.

NotMatt · Nov 12, 2006

Youngbone said:
I like the decals and everything, I just hate the rust that is all over the bed and just in random parts. There's even some rust on top of the cab, but I think I got a hell of a deal and I'm happy at the thought of ifnally just having a toyota, so I could care less what it looks like to be truely honest. I would just like it to look better than it does now eventually, but my main concern will be an engine tune up and changing out all of the fluids. I should probably change out the rear diff and front diff, as well as the transfer case right? Then I can do a manual transmission drain and fill. Coolant flushes are sorta spendy at Jiffy lube, but I guess I could come up with the money to do that too. Should I do the coolant flush after the timing chain is fixed?, or before? once again guys, thanks for all of your help, it's much appreciated.

You should do all this stuff yourself. Don't pay Jiffy lube to do it when you can do it with some basic tools for simply the cost of materials and a few hours on the weekend. Get a haynes or chiltons manual for your truck and you'll have step-by-step instructions for a lot of stuff as well as what types of fluids to use and what each part holds as far as capacity. The trans will probably be the hardest just because the fill and drain plugs are in kind of hard to reach spots.

Rear diff, front diff, t-case, transmission, engine oil, coolant are the main ones. Nothing says you HAVE to change them all, but I usually do that kind of stuff when I get a new rig since I don't know how long it's been since it was last changed. Wait to do the coolant and the engine oil until you are going to do the timing chain, because you have to drain both to do the timing chain job (radiator has to come out and the oil pan needs to be dropped a bit).

Youngbone · Nov 13, 2006

NotMatt said:
You should do all this stuff yourself. Don't pay Jiffy lube to do it when you can do it with some basic tools for simply the cost of materials and a few hours on the weekend. Get a haynes or chiltons manual for your truck and you'll have step-by-step instructions for a lot of stuff as well as what types of fluids to use and what each part holds as far as capacity. The trans will probably be the hardest just because the fill and drain plugs are in kind of hard to reach spots.

Rear diff, front diff, t-case, transmission, engine oil, coolant are the main ones. Nothing says you HAVE to change them all, but I usually do that kind of stuff when I get a new rig since I don't know how long it's been since it was last changed. Wait to do the coolant and the engine oil until you are going to do the timing chain, because you have to drain both to do the timing chain job (radiator has to come out and the oil pan needs to be dropped a bit).

I work at Jiffy Lube bro, thats why I can do them there hehe. I already changed the oil first thing when I bought the truck, and I will change it again after the timing chain. The reason being is because the oil was full, but blacker than you could ever imagine. Since I've changed it, the engine seems to run better too. And I will change them all, because I like taking good care of my vehicles. It makes sense to wait on the coolant until the timing chain is replaced though. Where might I find a chiltons manual for my truck? Thanks for your help Matt.

TheMasterbater · Nov 13, 2006

Any schmucks or Napa should have a chiltons or haynes manual.

bobbed_84_toy · Nov 13, 2006

Once you get her all tuned up your first "big" mod should be bobbing the bed. Won't cost you anything besides a can of primer and will only take the better part of a day:corn:

Youngbone · Nov 13, 2006

What do you mean by bobbing the bed?

84Toyota4x4 · Nov 13, 2006

Youngbone said:
What do you mean by bobbing the bed?

He means cutting the back off the bed, removing a section between the rear wheel well and the tail light area as viewed from the side, then welding the whole back on again - thus shortening the bed. Usually done to improve departure angles in the rear. Not really necessary in your situation right now in my opinion.

bobbed_84_toy said:
Once you get her all tuned up your first "big" mod should be bobbing the bed. Won't cost you anything besides a can of primer and will only take the better part of a day:corn:

I really think this should be saved for a little later down the road. I highly doubt that hes gonna encounter anything where having a bobbed bed will benefit him while hes still IFS and no lift. Not to mention having the proper tools to do it well.

Hell, I have a long bed, and Ive only drug my ass about twice, and I haven't had any problems with the length of the bed on any trails - yet. Once again, just my opinion though.

~T.J.

bite me · Nov 13, 2006

x2 on not bobbing the bed. its pretty much just a DD so I'd leave the bed full length, it's a shortbed anyhow. Try hauling a bike or Quad with a bobbed bed,:haha: You've only got 6' of bed now and bodded you could end up with a 5' or less bed,not alot of room for anything.

I'd leave it ifs and open just like others have said, 4:10 gears work with 33"s you just have to down shift on hills. as far as painting, do most of the prep work and take it to maaco, sliders, bumpers, and make sure you have good tow points front and rear. you got your self a good start there have fun with it!!!

zig80toy · Nov 13, 2006

Youngbone said:
Also, I wanted to ask about a wierd rattling noise that I hear when I get to speeds 45 mph to 50 mph. It's this huge rattling noise right behind my head and I can't think of what could be making the noise, because the noise only happens around 45-50 mph and when I hit the gas. Any ideas what that could be? Thanks again for all of your help guys, it's truely appreciated.

Have you figured out this rattling yet? I had an 86 toyota pickup and the rear slider window would rattle and make noise while at freeway speeds. All i did to "fix" the noise was to wedge little hunks of paper towel in the window track to keep the window from vibrating around in the track. I realize its not the best way to "fix" a rattle but it worked great. This might not be the problem, justa thought...

84Toyota4x4 · Nov 13, 2006

I'd leave it ifs and open just like others have said, 4:10 gears work with 33"s you just have to down shift on hills. as far as painting, do most of the prep work and take it to maaco, sliders, bumpers, and make sure you have good tow points front and rear. you got your self a good start there have fun with it!!!

X100

Sliders, bumpers, carry recovery gear in the truck (and learn to use it, get a Hi-Lift (once again - learn to use it), get the tow points front and rear, and learn to use what you've got truck-wise before you try and build something that will take you too far.

If you head up to Reiter, Ill run some trails with you, my girlfriends got an IFS 87 Runner that shes learning the ropes in, so we wont be trying anything too hardcore like some of these guys do on their runs. I just use my rig for recovery mostly so we arent out there in her Runner alone.

~T.J.

Youngbone · Nov 13, 2006

84Toyota4x4 said:
X100

Sliders, bumpers, carry recovery gear in the truck (and learn to use it, get a Hi-Lift (once again - learn to use it), get the tow points front and rear, and learn to use what you've got truck-wise before you try and build something that will take you too far.

If you head up to Reiter, Ill run some trails with you, my girlfriends got an IFS 87 Runner that shes learning the ropes in, so we wont be trying anything too hardcore like some of these guys do on their runs. I just use my rig for recovery mostly so we arent out there in her Runner alone.

~T.J.

Yeah I will head up to Reiter sometime definently. I don't know how to wheel or anything yet, and I need to learn somehow. As far as bobbing the bed goes, I see no need to. Also, I don't have the short bed, I have the extended bed is what my dad said. I was talking with my dad tonight, and I don't know if I should leave it ifs and get just 33's with 4:10 gears, because wouldn't that be a waste of money? Shouldn't I just keep driving it and then tune it up and fix the timing chain then save up enough for SAS and put 35's on it or something? That is what my dad was saying, and I just don't know what to do. Theres so many choices, and either way I just am glad I finally have my toyota. God I hate being new at things... Lol but I guess I have to learn somehow. I was thinking I should sand all the rust off and primer it, then go have it painted or something to make it look better. Once again guys, thanks for all of your help and suggestions.

Youngbone · Nov 13, 2006

zig80toy said:
Have you figured out this rattling yet? I had an 86 toyota pickup and the rear slider window would rattle and make noise while at freeway speeds. All i did to "fix" the noise was to wedge little hunks of paper towel in the window track to keep the window from vibrating around in the track. I realize its not the best way to "fix" a rattle but it worked great. This might not be the problem, justa thought...

No I haven't figured out the rattling yet. I looked at the cab between the bed, and the bed in the middle is bent and touching the cab, so I don't know if that is it. As far as my cab window goes, how do I do what you did?

ICEHAWK · Nov 14, 2006

haynes manual or the ones like.

Go toyota and puy the timeing chainkit and the COVER.I seen to many poelpe do half ass jop and is dead in a week.I just did my motor and tried to save and had to put a new bottom end in my rig again.

84Toyota4x4 · Nov 14, 2006

Here are the parts you need, for sale by a member of the forum even.

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6613

I think a good way to see what you need, it to use it and build it as you see fit. For instance, if you have no desire at all to drive over rocks and would rather spend all your time in the mud, then you would (should) build it differently. What I think you need to do, is just get the basics we listed (the sliders, bumpers, recoverey gear, etc), then go out and actually USE the truck to see what it is you like/want to do with it.

Go out, run a coupl trails, then say to yourself "id like to be able to go there" or "go over that" or whatever. Then, you think about what you need to do to the truck to achieve that goal. Truck modifications will make themselves apparent most times.

For instance, before I had my rear spool, I used to say to myself many times on a trail that I wished I could get somewhere because my truck just wouldnt go without lockers at all. Now that I have the spool, I get myself stuck up on rock piles on my crossmember, and up until that point, I saw no need to have a new crossmember because I couldnt even get in that situation to being with, see what I mean?

There are some people believe it or not, that are perfectly happy with a slighly lifted IFS truck and it will take them eveywhere they have a desire to go. You need to decide for yourself what you want to do to it, not do what everyone else is doing. If by chance you do decide to do something like everyone else, then you have a good amount of knowledge to read from about it, lol.

Anyway, send me a message if you decide to head up anytime soon, I think Im gonna try and get out this weekend, you could tag along if you want.

~T.J.

zig80toy · Nov 14, 2006

Youngbone said:
No I haven't figured out the rattling yet. I looked at the cab between the bed, and the bed in the middle is bent and touching the cab, so I don't know if that is it. As far as my cab window goes, how do I do what you did?

This could definitely be the cause of the rattling noise your hearing. Try to get in there with a pry bar and separate the two...