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Kid got a toy

I just need to decide if I'm going to do the tortion bars and lift it a little IFS, or just save up money and just SAS it. It seems like just saving all the money and driving it like it is would be the best idea, but I will just have to do some thinking I guess. Thanks for all of your help guys, and yeah I've heard many bad things about body lifts if you get in an accident, so that kind of scares me a bit. Hehe, anyways thanks again.
 
I personally think that if you get into an accident, you have more to worry about than what the body lift is going to do.

Also, by no means are we trying to say only do one or the other, just dont get too into lifting the IFS system is all we're saying. If you crank up the torsion bars and throw some shackles on the rear and get some cheap used tires, theres nothing wrong with that. I just see no point in regearing it and putting lockers in it and all kinds of other crap while its still IFS.

~T.J.
 
I'm thinking I will just focus on what is important for now and then save up enough for an SAS. The main thing I should worry about right now is just doing an engine tune up and fixing the timing chain. Which parts should I buy off the engine builder website? I get paid tomorrow and I will be able to purchase some stuff, but what all do I need?
 
To do the job the "best" way, I would get:

Valve Cover Set
Head Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Timing Chain Kit (Steel Rails, w/Timing Cover Gaskets)
Oil Pump (w/Seal To Front Cover)
Timing Cover (possibly not needed if yours isn't damaged - yours is most likely fine)
Water Pump (w/Gasket)

Now then, thats just off the top of my head, and that is somewhat extreme. You don't really NEED to replace the valve cover gasket, but its fairly cheap, and probably hasn't been done, so why not. Also, you don't NEED to replace the water pump, but IMO if you're gonna have it apart far enough to get to it, you might as well do it just so you know its in good shape. Some of the timing cover bolts go through the water pump, so you might as well just pull the rest of the pump bolts and replace it. Also, it IS possible to do the timing kit without taking the engine head off, which would save you the cost of the head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets also. However, its a tight fit to get the cover back in with the head still on. I just did one with the head still on, and I have to take it back apart and pull the head this time because the head gasket got squished wrong and I need to replace it now because its leaking oil. Also, the oil pump doesn't necessarily need to be changed, but a lot of people do it, and same thing as the water pump, if you're gonna be there you might as well do it.

But, if you want just the BASIC parts and plan to re-use or not replace the other stuff, all you really need is the Timing Chain Kit (Steel Guides, w/Timing Cover Gaskets).

Don't forget after you do it all to do an oil change and put fresh coolant in, assuming you don't pull the head and oil pan and blah blah blah. If you need any help, I'm not busy most days since I'm still looking for work right now, so Id be willing to help ya if you want. Good luck!

~T.J.
 
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Ok, so I've pretty much decided exactly what I want now. The only thing left to do is set each step and take the steps one at a time. My first step is going to be gathering all of the pieces to do what I want. While I gather all of these pieces, the truck will remain stock and my daily driver. If anything happens to the truck then I have my 95 mustang sitting at home. Ok so first step is getting the pieces I need which is a straight axle, and everything needed to do the straight axle swap (which to be honest I have no clue what else I need yet, so I will have to search around the forums hoping to find out), then I'm going to buy a motor to rebuild or a motor that is already rebuilt. I've had several people look at my 22re and so far I've been told it could be my timing chain tensioner, the timing chain, the oil pump, and or the valves in the engine. After hearing such a big selection of ideas of what could be wrong with my engine to make the ticking noise, I decided the best thing to do is just rebuild that engine, or buy an engine that is ready to rebuild. Then I will look for a set of 35's or 36's, depending on the size of rims I end up buying. The first thing I did when I bought the truck was start fixing it up a little bit, I replaced the fluid in the rear diff, transfer case, and transmission. I couldn't do the front diff, because the bolt will not come off if my life depended on it :mad: . I also changed the oil too, because the guy clearly told me he bought it when the truck had 300,000 miles on it and hadn't changed it once. I bought the truck when the odometer read 324,000 miles, and I'm now at 325,500 or so. I also bought new tail lights so I wouldn't get pulled over (thanks Odie) , then I ended up finding a passenger side mirror (thanks Skrause), so I haven't done much to it and I thought about doing an engine tune up, but I don't know how effective it will be if I plan to rebuild the engine within a month or 2. Anyways, I will keep you all posted and if you have any tips or items to sell me or something let me know, all help is appreciated and wish me luck with this. It will be a good long project for me to do, and I can't wait to get started!!! As I said before, any help or tips is appreciated.

Chris
 
Sounds like you have a decent plan, but you do need to do the research as to what you need for the solid axle swap. This actually isnt as hard as it seems. I like to think about it piece by piece.

For instance you need:

A solid axle - obvious reasons why.

A way to hang the axle - Springs hang the axle.

A way to attach the axle to the springs - U bolt flip kit and/or stock U bolt systems attach the axle to the springs.

A way to attach the springs to the truck - For the front of the springs, the spring hanger attaches the springs to the truck. For the rear of the spring, the shackles attach the springs to the truck.

A place to put the shackles - They make jigs you put on your frame, and cut out a hole for the shackles to hang from

A way to steer the axle - Crossover steering is the best way to go about it.

A way to stop the truck - Landcruiser rotors and the stock IFS calipers work well.

Basically, just think about what you need, and what part makes it happen. Where you get it, if you make it, whatever comes later. You need to plan what you need before you can plan how or where to get it.

As for the engine, I think you might be a little too stressed out about it. I have a motor that was meticulously assembled, fully machined, etc and it tickes too. Ive checked valves hundreds of times, setting them hot, cold, different settings, replaced the adjuster screws, etc. Ive checked the valve cover hitting, whatever. Some motors just tick IMO. I think its due to the different materials they used for the rocker arms in different years. Now, if its KNOCKING, thats something completely different.

I personally wouldn't dump money for a rebuild into an engine that still runs. Like you said, you have your Mustang if this dies, so why waste all that money on a rebuild kit or a used motor or whatever, when all that could potentially just sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 4 years because this one keeps running? Of course, you wouldnt want to sell it all after you bought it because you'll keep thinking that the minute you sell it, the engine will die. I say screw it, drive it until it blows, whatever, THEN worry about it. If it blows, you have the Mustang while you collect parts ONCE YOU NEED THEM.

Thats just my opinion though. Is your schedule very full? I plan on heading down to my Dads house (down that way) sometime fairly soon (maybe today, maybe sometime this week). I could stop by and listen to it and give you my two cents on it too if you want. Send me a PM on when it might work for you, and I'll see what I can do if you want.

~T.J.
 
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call me and i will see whatis up. toyota all ticks. I have it on my new motor.just drive tell it goes
 
lol, i have a brand new jasper reman engine with only about 2k miles, and it ticks, so i wouldnt worry too much about it.

about 3 months ago, i was in your same situation. i had just bought my '86 toyota SR5 extra cab pickup with 307k on the clock, even has the same graphics, and i just wanted to tear into it (the first thing i did before i left the lot was open the tailgate. then it wouldnt close. so i had to as one of the salesmen if i could borrow a screwdriver and some WD40. i told my mom that i had expect to be working on this truck, but i hadnt wanted to start so soon). the first thing i did was cosmetic. i put the bedliner from my dads 03 taco in my truck, and you wouldnt believe how much cleaner it looks, now that you cant see all the rust in the bed. then, when i blew out my crank seal up at reiter, it was $3k+ for a new engine. the most recent thing i have done is put a set of steel wheels with shiny hubcaps and bald 31x10.50s on. all of these things really improved the look of the truck. the picture is as it sits now (urban wheeling anyone:D ?).

anyway, my plans are to SAS, 4-8" mixed lift, 35" tires, and 5.29 gears. correct me if i am wrong, but what i have heard about gearing is that to keep it as close as possible to stock, you want to run 4.88 gears with 33" tires, and 5.29s with 35"s. i have also heard that these trucks (meaning second generation) have some major issues with clearing 35s on the front because of the way the back of the fenderwell is shaped. shouldnt be an issue with 33s tho.

the picture is as it sits now (urban wheeling anyone:D ?).
 
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