let's talk gearing.......

[Boonie Buster]

in reference to your "for sale" post...

this is what a dana 30 reverse rotation looks like:awesomework:

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/jeep/D30yj_small.jpg

 

[Six-Nine]

Your weak spot in the D30 is going to be the U-joints. You see what I'm running 36"s and 4.88's. The only thing I break is the U-joints which then destroy the axle shaft and hope to god it doesn't pop out your ball joints. :redneck: BTDT

Run alloy joints and axles and they will hold up.:fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

its not like you will actually go through with this. You'll just sell this jeep and claim that a sammy is better

 

[JOOP]

i was wondering about RPM's, w/ the 4.88's

yeah still having the D30/35 combo, and trying improve isn't that smart, but for the time being, this gearing combo ain't working either.

AAAAAArrrggg

ok, so it's either 4.56's and stay at 33's

or just grab a D44 out of a Tj <--- like this idea.

The atlasII will get me a lower crawl ratio,

Dont worry about RPM's. With the 4.88's and 33"s you'll be running about 3000-3200 in your final gear at 60 mph. Trust me you'll like the power of 4.88"s with 33"s. With my stroker motor I woudl give a honda a run for the money, upto 60mph. Spanked many of the non Vtec ones. :haha:

PLus with the 4.88's crawlign with 33"s is a breeze, nice low crawl ratio. Plus you have an auto, your too new for an auto, lets trade.:flipoff:

 

[JOOP]

Run alloy joints and axles and they will hold up.:fawkdancesmiley:

Thats what I'm going to do for now.

 

[Totalled]

I have a drum brake explorer 8.8 3.73 L/S you can have for $150 Rich.

Oh, and rpms. Figure it yourself.

mph x gear ratio x 336
tire diameter​

 

[pokey]

Rich, use robins idea. If you want to keep it drivable at freeway speeds then going to low in the axles will be a mistake. I run 4:27s and have no issues at hwy speeds. if you want a better crawl speed then get it in the low range of the TC.

 

[Binder]

What gear ratio do you need to sell your rig anywy? Is there a "craigslist" ratio?

 

[pokey]

What gear ratio do you need to sell your rig anywy? Is there a "craigslist" ratio?

:haha: :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:

 

[XtrmTJ]

The most important varable in this setup is "What tire size do you intend to run?" 35" and below, beef up you 30/35. Supper 35 kit, Warn, what ever brand name, replace the inerds. Also, "truss" both the 30 and the 35, the tubes are on the skinny side and are weak. They tend to bend when abused. Now "IF" you want to run 36" or bigger, the word is "Axle Swap". 44's, 60's what ever. Personely, I swapped in a HPD44 infront and a Ford 9" in the rear. I run 38's and have had no problems so far. :awesomework: Just my .02 :redneck:

 

[Rich1]

Rich, use robins idea. If you want to keep it drivable at freeway speeds then going to low in the axles will be a mistake. I run 4:27s and have no issues at hwy speeds. if you want a better crawl speed then get it in the low range of the TC.

thid was my idea, the winch and atlasII, those 2 items, connected to the nice low mileage 4.0 and auto tranny are a given and perfect pkg deal.

i was looking for a easy swap in, rear end.... but it's looking like i'm better off, just paying someone to weld up the Tj bracket kit and get a nice ford 8.8 for it. upgrade the front, and run a selectable locker up there. in the long run this jeep will do pretty well on 33's.

and after a while i can do the axle upgrades and some bigger tires. for now though, i'd like to get a stronger rear than the d35 and some gears to getty up.

======================================
*for all you guys responding with your negative bullshit, do you really have nothing better to do? i understand i have went thru alot of rigs, and i also get the jab's / fun part of teasing me... but come on, find something better to do with your time than fawk with me. really, it's so childish and just seems like a waste of time for you to fling poo at me.

be more positive,

hey.... i'm not asking for you to be my friend or rub my back, i'm just another guy with a OFFROADER, sometimes a guy that trades or sells them a little to often, but so what? does this upset you or make you jealous, whoopie fawking doo. maybe this time i'll stick with one for awhile, maybe i won't - IS THAT A PROBLEM FOR YOU?

 

[Totalled]

Don't spend any money on the D35... It's a turd from every angle... the D30, while quite spindly... can be polished up well enough. All I have to add is.. 5-760X with full circle snap rings. I think I owuls do 4.56s, Super 8.8 kit to get the width back. (and I finally saw a snapped 31 spline 8.8 shaft. ) Detroit locker. Replace the stock carrier on the 8.8... it's a weak point.

Then do whatever to the D30. You'll be stout enough to flog without a care.

 

[jimpaget]

I have a drum brake explorer 8.8 3.73 L/S you can have for $150 Rich.

Oh, and rpms. Figure it yourself.

mph x gear ratio x 336
tire diameter​

What is the "336 constant?

 

[Totalled]

I don't remember... it might be revs per mile.

 

[TreeClimber]

Rich,
Don't get the Atlas. You've shown to be a wheeler, but you're definately not gung-ho enough to need an Atlas. Get a 4-1 kit for the 231 case you've already got, and a slip yoke eliminator. Have someone competent install it for you. Cost less than a third of an Atlas, and will give you good low range. For the axles, 4.10/4.11 ratio is fine for you. These rigs are also daily drivers - not dedicated wheelers - and with 33s or 35s you'll be fine for pulling highway speeds with the 6 cylinder motor. Find someone with the factory 4 cyl and buy the complete axles from their upgrade, and swap in the entire front and rear. Should be less than $500 (axles related) for everything. Then gut out your old axle shafts, and carry them for spares. Time and Money permitting, get an 8.8 for the rear, or, have someone build you a custom axle.
Tony

 

[Rock_Crusher]

Rich,
Don't get the Atlas. You've shown to be a wheeler, but you're definately not gung-ho enough to need an Atlas. Get a 4-1 kit for the 231 case you've already got, and a slip yoke eliminator. Have someone competent install it for you. Cost less than a third of an Atlas, and will give you good low range. For the axles, 4.10/4.11 ratio is fine for you. These rigs are also daily drivers - not dedicated wheelers - and with 33s or 35s you'll be fine for pulling highway speeds with the 6 cylinder motor. Find someone with the factory 4 cyl and buy the complete axles from their upgrade, and swap in the entire front and rear. Should be less than $500 (axles related) for everything. Then gut out your old axle shafts, and carry them for spares. Time and Money permitting, get an 8.8 for the rear, or, have someone build you a custom axle.
Tony

that sounds smart, money sensible too.

i guess it's all in how i wheel it, i know the limits both on the street and off, but if i stick the wife in it, and she dumps the gas peddle on some rocks / holes... snap, and daddy's under it changing axles.

i like the idea of just going in debt for one of these... and be done with the rear all together. no more problems there ever again!

============================

after all, without all the negative bullshit i keep hearing... about me and selling this or that... the issue here is really about the gearing, and weak links of the wrangler tj's. *(the rear end) so heres my solution to it,

anyone else want to chime in, about this soloution;

The Currie Stage III Jeep TJ Rearend is an extreme off road unit for rock crawlers and vehicles with 36" or larger tires. Unit features the aluminum RockJock® high pinion 60 housing with the late model large bearing housing ends and 35 spline performance axle package, all new heavy duty TJ rear suspension brackets mounted (CE-7101), Explorer disc brake kit (CE-6012), Detroit locker differential, gears of your choice, heavy duty aluminum cover, yoke, and full set up and assembly of the unit. Unit is ready to take out of the box and install. *From $4,150.45

 

[TreeClimber]

Not a bad solution, if you've got an extra $7000 to spend. First, you've got the $4150 *plus another 3 or 400 in shipping*, then you're wheels won't fit, so add another $1000 for some beadlocks - no sense buying fancy axle without getting them blinging Trailreadys - and, well, surely we can't run them 60s and TR wheels without some respectable tires, so its a $1000 for some real meats... and what'll we do for the front, now that the back is bad ass? Gotta get me a front to, so it's 44 time for the front (unless you've got $13000 burning a hole in your pocket)....

Keep it simple stupid. You have absolutely no need for a D60 in anything that'll get daily driven. Amanda (olllllllo) has beat the bloody hell out of her 8.8 and D30 front (with good stuff in them) on 35s and hasn't broke a shaft yet.

 

[Rock_Crusher]

Not a bad solution, if you've got an extra $7000 to spend. First, you've got the $4150 *plus another 3 or 400 in shipping*, then you're wheels won't fit, so add another $1000 for some beadlocks - no sense buying fancy axle without getting them blinging Trailreadys - and, well, surely we can't run them 60s and TR wheels without some respectable tires, so its a $1000 for some real meats... and what'll we do for the front, now that the back is bad ass? Gotta get me a front to, so it's 44 time for the front (unless you've got $13000 burning a hole in your pocket)....

Keep it simple stupid. You have absolutely no need for a D60 in anything that'll get daily driven. Amanda (olllllllo) has beat the bloody hell out of her 8.8 and D30 front (with good stuff in them) on 35s and hasn't broke a shaft yet.

my thoughts exactly......

*(i kinda figured that last post would spark a intresting reply.)

 

[PORTER]

Blah, Blah, Blah, just wheel it as it will probably be for sale next week.:fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Rock_Crusher]

Blah, Blah, Blah, just wheel it as it will probably be for sale next week.:fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley:

naw...

















give it at least a month. ok another week at least! :stirpot: