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let's talk gearing.......

NotMatt said:
Rich, I think you should get the atlas. If it's what you need to get out and wheel, then do it.
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i was out wheeling today....... :eeek:

the problem is that I'am way down here.... and most of you guys are way up there! but some of you have wheeled with me, or showed up down here to play. i like the site here, regardless if some don't like me. fawkers don't even know me. just know of me from my E-Net reputation.

i'm working on this DAMN jeep to make it capable of getting my ass up there. it's alot easier on me to drive up there in a decent DD/WW and i like the driving part and being able to just pull of unto the trails.

JUST WATCH, i'm gonna prove everyone wrong this time. i'm keeping this fawking jeep and doing my best to upgrade it - :;
 
heres a shot going up lefty. it's got that nick name from being a hill climb that seems doable to the offroader looking at it from the bottom, it's the point you don't see 1/2 way up that suddenly turns sharp left and then gets steeper going up.

being open f/r and gearing that makes one wonder, i was unable to make upwards motion. *(without getting a run at it.) but then once up the 1/2 way point, your stuckered. *(if your open diffed)

i get out alot around my place. and have some very intresting places to play. it just sucks that i haven't sold my house and moved closer to a actual orv area. i'd be living on the trails.

YOU FAWKERS NEXT DOOR TO REITER, have a good thing in your pockets. my closest places to play with groups is Elbe or Evans.

:booo:
 
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Gearing is not whats keeping you from getting up the hill- you need lockers! Some taller gears would help, but the 4:1 would be a waste of $1000+ for what you're doing. For a guy looking to spend thousands on custom axles and Atlas t-case it should come as a releif to hear that a couple lock rights ($300 ea) is all you need. Regear with 4.88's, if you go 4.10 or 4.56 you will probably regret it when you wanna run 35's or do more technical stuff.
 
Pat said:
Gearing is not whats keeping you from getting up the hill- you need lockers! Some taller gears would help, but the 4:1 would be a waste of $1000+ for what you're doing. For a guy looking to spend thousands on custom axles and Atlas t-case it should come as a releif to hear that a couple lock rights ($300 ea) is all you need. Regear with 4.88's, if you go 4.10 or 4.56 you will probably regret it when you wanna run 35's or do more technical stuff.
Click to expand...

I know the need of and for lockers, it's the damn 3.07's w/ 33's thats playing havoc with me on trails. it's like i'am in 3rd or 4th gear - when i'am in 4L & 1st...

my original question was; *(hoping someone else was running this combo)

would 4.88's cause some high rpm's on the hyway?

02 tj 4.0 / Auto - D30/35 & 3.07's w/ 33inch tires <----- currently

but i'am hearing different opions, use 4.10's or 4.56's *(stronger)
 
pokey said:
x2 stick with 4:10s to keep your hyw manners with 33s
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thx.......... thats what i was trying to figure out, w/ the auto tranny...

alot of people say; it'll be fine it's a auto... it'll stretch out vs a stick.

i didn't really see it that way, at 65-70MPH

again, thx

===

and some of the things i learned in this post is,

4.88's are weaker R&P's vs 4.56 or 4.10's

if I'am careful and do a stock Tj rearend swap with a D44 and 4.10's i'd be ok on 33's with a light foot. and upgrade that axle and re-inforce it. build the f d30 and also add 4.10's. selectable f locker, locker for the rear.

add some gear reduction in the stock T/C

SYE and R D shaft

----- sliders, winch... see ya on the trails again. :cheer: :cheer: :cheer:


so i need the following items;

*(money, money, and a little bit more money!)

Dana Rear Tj 44 w/ 410's & hopefully a locker already installed
SYE & Shaft
Upgrade Kit for the f D30 / matching R&P's and a selectable Locker
T/C gear reduction
 
Rich, in all seriousness. If you got a TJ rubicon, you would already have all that. You seem to be able to wheel and deal. Might be easier in the long run. :awesomework:
 
You say you have an auto trans but don't say if you have the OD version. Do you have OD?
Tony's response was nearly dead on. My only question would be the need for a 4-1 kit once you've changed your gearing. With a stick a 4-1 is REQUIRED but with an auto....not so much. A torque convertor allows crawling without the need for a really low t-case.
With non-overdrive auto 4.10 axle gears are about as low as you can go and still have decent freeway speeds. 33's are a bit small and with the a torque converter allowing a little more RPM than a stick, 4.10's are the right choice. If you have an OD auto, 4.56 or 4.88's will work but 4.88's are prone to failure in a LP Dana 30 front. A HP unit is better if you can get it really cheap but if you can't do it cheaply, do a real 44.
As other have chimed in, lockers will help you dramatically. However, with 4.10's and your stock t-case, you should be really be able to use 1st AND 2nd on hills like you've mentioned. Wheelspeed is crucial and having 4.10's will be like having a new, lower 1st. When you run out of steam in 2nd, it will now have a lower 1st. It should be enough.
 
Digger 5 said:
You say you have an auto trans but don't say if you have the OD version. Do you have OD?
Tony's response was nearly dead on. My only question would be the need for a 4-1 kit once you've changed your gearing. With a stick a 4-1 is REQUIRED but with an auto....not so much. A torque convertor allows crawling without the need for a really low t-case.
With non-overdrive auto 4.10 axle gears are about as low as you can go and still have decent freeway speeds. 33's are a bit small and with the a torque converter allowing a little more RPM than a stick, 4.10's are the right choice. If you have an OD auto, 4.56 or 4.88's will work but 4.88's are prone to failure in a LP Dana 30 front. A HP unit is better if you can get it really cheap but if you can't do it cheaply, do a real 44.
As other have chimed in, lockers will help you dramatically. However, with 4.10's and your stock t-case, you should be really be able to use 1st AND 2nd on hills like you've mentioned. Wheelspeed is crucial and having 4.10's will be like having a new, lower 1st. When you run out of steam in 2nd, it will now have a lower 1st. It should be enough.
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thank you for the reply.

:;
 
YOU ASK FOR THE SECRET COMBO!!! Making a rig an ON and OFF road vehicle.. Well Yess ii have a friend that has the same deal going on...or did. He ended up choosing 4;88 f/r the quick lock in the REAR as mentioned in the other thread,or reply, and a slectable ARB in front. running 35 mtr's 4" lift has not seen a sacrafice in hwy speeds that would not merit the Jeep as also being an ofroad machine! with an 4.0/auto!!
 
My buddy has a '97 XJ.

HO 4.0
AX-15 manual tranny
231 t-case
HP D30 front (open)
8.25 Chrysler rear (Detroit)
4.10 gears
33" BFG mudders

Wishes he would have gotten lower gears! A buddy of his told him "get 4.56 or lower or you will regret spending so much money on something you are going to upgrade on..."

I think, with HIS driving style in mind, he should have gotten 4.56's. 4.88's would have sacrificed onroadability(sp?)...
 

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