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Link material idea

Yotakid

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So my lower links are getting a little more curve then I would like and I was trying to think of a cheap way to solve the problem since thick DOM is so expensive. Began looking around and noticed some old long side axleshafts (toy solid axle) that I have laying around and thought about sleeving them and having some solid lower links. They're about 31" long so they would span the majority of the lenght (my lowers are 47" long). Would they hold up to the side loads placed on them or are they heat treated and side loads would cause them to break?

Or what about welding a short and long shaft together and just sleeving the joint (would give you a 46" link). Then just find a way to attach the rod ends and you would have an 1.5" solid link.

Am I a complete idiot or could this actually work :eeek:
 
So my lower links are getting a little more curve then I would like and I was trying to think of a cheap way to solve the problem since thick DOM is so expensive. Began looking around and noticed some old long side axleshafts (toy solid axle) that I have laying around and thought about sleeving them and having some solid lower links. They're about 31" long so they would span the majority of the lenght (my lowers are 47" long). Would they hold up to the side loads placed on them or are they heat treated and side loads would cause them to break?

Or what about welding a short and long shaft together and just sleeving the joint (would give you a 46" link). Then just find a way to attach the rod ends and you would have an 1.5" solid link.

Am I a complete idiot or could this actually work :eeek:

Im no expert but I think axle material would be too hard and break before it bent. I think you are better off spending your money on some good links and call it good.
 
So my lower links are getting a little more curve then I would like and I was trying to think of a cheap way to solve the problem since thick DOM is so expensive. Began looking around and noticed some old long side axleshafts (toy solid axle) that I have laying around and thought about sleeving them and having some solid lower links. They're about 31" long so they would span the majority of the lenght (my lowers are 47" long). Would they hold up to the side loads placed on them or are they heat treated and side loads would cause them to break?

Or what about welding a short and long shaft together and just sleeving the joint (would give you a 46" link). Then just find a way to attach the rod ends and you would have an 1.5" solid link.

Am I a complete idiot or could this actually work :eeek:


save up cash and get some chromo links, and or just straighten your current links and sleeve them with the next bigger size tube. An example would be if you had 1.75 x .250 wall links and sleeved them with 2 x .120 you would essentially have 3/8 wall links. Just an option.
 
save up cash and get some chromo links, and or just straighten your current links and sleeve them with the next bigger size tube. An example would be if you had 1.75 x .250 wall links and sleeved them with 2 x .120 you would essentially have 3/8 wall links. Just an option.

Which would actually be stronger then 3/8 alone.
 
Sorry, can't wheel tomorrow (wife's birthday party). Maybe next weekend if your out there again.

Searching on ebay and QS components has a 1.5x.25x4' for $42.00 shippped to my door. Wish it 2"OD, but unless someone knows a cheaper option I'm thinking going with that and sleeving it still.

Here's a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-DOM-1-1-2-OD-...295?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5637b2b9bf

On a side note I got my heims from them a couple years ago and they've lasted great.

Still curious if any of the metal gurus out there know if the axle shafts would take the side load without breaking.
 
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2x2x .25 box tube. Cheap and super tough.

I built my lowers out of 2" square .25 wall. Got a nice bent one I'll sell ya. 2nd trip on them and it bent. this is on a light rig too, tube buggie built off a toyota frame and drivetrain. Not sure how I bent it so quickly but I did.


Bunk's links are sweet but spendy. Notice the overall idea here is cheap alternative so Bunk doesn't necessarily apply. Although I do agree Bunk's links are the way to go if you have the coin.


Brad I got some 2" x 1/2" wall I'll sell ya. Ordered by accident but the shop had already cut my order before I noticed my type-o so I had to buy it. You could have it tapped out and thread your joints/hiems right into it.
 
Bunk's links are sweet but spendy. Notice the overall idea here is cheap alternative so Bunk doesn't necessarily apply. Although I do agree Bunk's links are the way to go if you have the coin.

I dont recall quoting you links, But if i did and it was high it was because you wernt part of a buy. If your just oen guy who wants a full set of links and i buy only enough material for you then its spendy. If i order enough material for 5 rigs(like ive done before) then you get hooked up front rear/top bottom for way cheaper than anywhere else.

If things go right i will be in full swing by this summer, Having a large investment of link material AND dom tubing available 24/7 to bring costs down for all ya cheap bastards.:fawkdancesmiley:
 
I dont recall quoting you links, But if i did and it was high it was because you wernt part of a buy. If your just oen guy who wants a full set of links and i buy only enough material for you then its spendy. If i order enough material for 5 rigs(like ive done before) then you get hooked up front rear/top bottom for way cheaper than anywhere else.

If things go right i will be in full swing by this summer, Having a large investment of link material AND dom tubing available 24/7 to bring costs down for all ya cheap bastards.:fawkdancesmiley:

You're right Bunk, I should have prefaced my claims that it was all 3rd party based on info I've been told by others. Which isn't fair to you and your business. My apologies Joe.
 
DOM isn't that exspensive. I went with .250 wall for my uppers and .500 wall for my lowers. Just do it right once and not worry about it.
 
save your money and get some links from Bunk this summer. I will guarantee you these will be the last links you will ever need to buy :awesomework:
 
I built my lowers out of 2" square .25 wall. Got a nice bent one I'll sell ya. 2nd trip on them and it bent. this is on a light rig too, tube buggie built off a toyota frame and drivetrain. Not sure how I bent it so quickly but I did.

You got some swapmeet louie box tube then. Or something funny is going on.

I just watched a V8 powered heavy buggy tear up the busy with all 2x2 box links that had been on it for lots of years.

Box tube is strong. Dont let one persons experience sway ya.

I have 2x2 box tube traction bars on the stomper (7500lbs) and they have been rammed into lots of cars that I have crushed and driven over. Never bent one tho.

I have seen tons of box tube links and never seen a bent one.
 
To answer your question on the axle shaft material yes it will break after it bends just a little. It will take a lot of force to break one though......I had thought of doing this with 1 1/2" axles at one point. I put one in a pipe bender to see what it would take and it broke the bender.
Bottom line is anything you put under there will bend. The only question is when it bends will it stay bent, break or just bend back where it started.......I've seen lots of bent aluminum links but most people have good luck with them. DOM for links is a myth don't bother as I've bent and thrown out more DOM then I can count. I've had 1 3/4" solid steel links and guess what......bent the **** out of those too......
Last time around I bought 1 3/4" .375 wall cromolly, 4110 IIRC I will have to look it up- had them heat treated and they've lasted a couple years now with no bends.
In my opinion the key to it is getting the correct material and having it heat treated.:cheer:
Also to ad the length of the link plays a large roll too. The longer the link the more leverage is on it when it hits something so longer is more likely to bend.
 
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I should use round chromoly heat treated tube for tongue on my next trailer huh? Sounds stronger than say, box tube? :corn:

I even seen a few fifth wheels sporting round tube. NOT!
 
I should use round chromoly heat treated tube for tongue on my next trailer huh? Sounds stronger than say, box tube? :corn:

I even seen a few fifth wheels sporting round tube. NOT!

Who said it was stronger than box tube?..and box tube is relative to size and material just like round is.:;
Yes box tube is more resistant to bending than equal size round tube depending on which direction you try to bend it as box tube is directional.
What size box tube do you use Brad?
 
Who said it was stronger than box tube?..and box tube is relative to size and material just like round is.:;
Yes box tube is more resistant to bending than equal size round tube depending on which direction you try to bend it as box tube is directional.
What size box tube do you use Brad?

Ill put some 2x2x 1/4 box in the press over some 2od x 1/4 dom and give ya the results.
 

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