I just wanna get all the metal work done before you go paintin it up
Do you need those clutch parts to do that?
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Little Gibby's 45 MB
- Thread starter Gibby1
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Do you need those clutch parts to do that?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
at least the clutch master...
Hmmm, will this do the job?
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/clutch-...p-2219.html?osCsid=qdug70dedgude3msksmpgleit7
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/clutch-...p-2219.html?osCsid=qdug70dedgude3msksmpgleit7
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Not bad.. I will have to make the pushrod for it but thats ok..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok got another chore for ya. I have looked and looked but its been hard to sit and look for a rad..
Here are the dimentions.
Width- I prefer 20" wide but we can go 22"
Height- I prefer 16" tall but we can squeeze 19". I am looking at removing the stock cross member under the rad and doing a custom one so we can play with how tall it is. But anything over 19" will just aim it closer to the front end.
Neck size--try to go with 1.75 but I am sure we will go with the same hoses we used on your runner since those seemed to work well and very versatile.
Neck location isn't really a big deal except we need the passenger side on the bottom and the drivers on top.
I have also looked for a new t-stat housing (single output) but I have not found a single thing for the 3.8. Yours (stock) has a neck on it for the upper rad hose and one for a heater hose. With the intake you have we can eliminate the neck from the t-stat and run it off the intake.
Here are the dimentions.
Width- I prefer 20" wide but we can go 22"
Height- I prefer 16" tall but we can squeeze 19". I am looking at removing the stock cross member under the rad and doing a custom one so we can play with how tall it is. But anything over 19" will just aim it closer to the front end.
Neck size--try to go with 1.75 but I am sure we will go with the same hoses we used on your runner since those seemed to work well and very versatile.
Neck location isn't really a big deal except we need the passenger side on the bottom and the drivers on top.
I have also looked for a new t-stat housing (single output) but I have not found a single thing for the 3.8. Yours (stock) has a neck on it for the upper rad hose and one for a heater hose. With the intake you have we can eliminate the neck from the t-stat and run it off the intake.
http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60580
Will this work for the radiator? :corn:
If mine wont theres also this one http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61611
Will this work for the radiator? :corn:
If mine wont theres also this one http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61611
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Nick can you measure from the bottom of the rad to the top surface of the neck?
Nead a radiator? Give me a call that's what I do all day long206-353-7300 Don
Don, PM a quote to me. Looks like Crash has all the measurements that you need.
Dale
PM your phone number and address to me so that I can have it shipped directly to you.
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
ACK!! If you haven't already ordered, don't buy anything from JTO. Seriously.
I'd rather buy reman'd stuff from Napa than take my chances with Joe Turpin. If you want a kit, I'd go with the upgrade kit from CCOT: http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/clutmasslavc.html (I own this.)
Also a good option: #018-01B-KIT here: http://www.sor.com/sor/cat018.tam
It looks like Man-a-fre's kit has the full braided stainless hose and might even come with the pushrod: http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa4/clutchhydraulickit.htm
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Been putting along as I have had time.
So what I wanted was some support for the fenders as there is none to a side hit. I also wanted more places to mount things under the hood if need be and also front sock mounts since with the wider housing the stock ones will no longer work.
So I came up with a game plan and finally started bending more tube.
The weakest point on the fenders is about 3/4 down the fender from the grill bar but I could not run a tube across--too many things in the way.
So this is how I gave some support to it.
I got it fully welded in and now I gotta make tube plates and cut the tubing/weld then in so of course the tube can be removed.
I have 2 more down tubes for the shocks and a little more for the radiator once I get one.
So what I wanted was some support for the fenders as there is none to a side hit. I also wanted more places to mount things under the hood if need be and also front sock mounts since with the wider housing the stock ones will no longer work.
So I came up with a game plan and finally started bending more tube.
The weakest point on the fenders is about 3/4 down the fender from the grill bar but I could not run a tube across--too many things in the way.
So this is how I gave some support to it.
I got it fully welded in and now I gotta make tube plates and cut the tubing/weld then in so of course the tube can be removed.
I have 2 more down tubes for the shocks and a little more for the radiator once I get one.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I saw that after I re read the original post.
Still getting used to those new eyeballs eh!
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I managed to get the plates made up with my band saw a smokin :haha:
Any news on the rad since thats the real last piece of the puzzel..
Any news on the rad since thats the real last piece of the puzzel..
