Low Budget rear engine, 37"s

[fordcontraption01]

The flanges on the rear axles did you weld them to the shafts?

 

[RustyC]

The flanges on the rear axles did you weld them to the shafts?

The long side is an off the shelf factory shaft. The short side is welded. It was beveled and cleaned and per heated, welded and wrapped to cool slowly ans chopped off the excess. If it breaks I will have to get a chromo shaft cut to length and splined.
In hind sight, I should have welded flanges to the housing and used bolt on front spindles and double splined shaft and slugs but that takes $$$.

 

[Jduck]

Very nice build, your kids are going to love riding around in that!

What did you use for the front axle seals?

 

[race_jeep]

Awesome!!!!

 

[fordcontraption01]

Thanks I was just wondering what you did. Love the build it looks awesome keep up the nice work good sir

 

[RustyC]

Very nice build, your kids are going to love riding around in that!

What did you use for the front axle seals?

The front shafts are sealed with these (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-eas1-05/overview/)
I also found a lipseal by National Seal that fit into the factory tubes with the seam ground flat on the I.D. of the tube.
So each axle has 2 seals on it with grease between to keep the outside seal lubed.
I would have to dig up the National seal # but Orielly's got it no problem.
The seals would have been much easier if I would not have used a truck housing and instead used a car (banjo) housing.
Seals it carries seals for them that would have fit much better. Once again hind sight is 20-20.

 

[crawlin85cj]

Straight cool! Man I like what you've done here and to do it nice but on a budget makes it over the top cool in my book.

 

[RustyC]

Thanks guys. I tried to spend the money in the right places.
Big $ items were. Coilovers, spud shaft from A.A. 27 spline female to 23 spline male to mate the trans to the tcase, gears,spools,seats and wheel parts.

Hopefully after the engine is built and tires, I can upgrade the stub shafts and from 1310 to 1350 on the driveshafts.
At that point hopefully me and the boys can see how tough it is. a

 

[zukimaster]

I got a 4.3 in my rig, they dont like alot of rpm's, I have also spun a rod bearing, and then stock valve springs are no good, bent a few pushrods, so best insurance you can get, especially with a 12 year old flogging it, MSD rev controller, keep it around 4500-4800 ( for a stock engine) and all should be good.

 

[hokie_yj]

Very cool build! It's good inspiration for me to get my ass in gear and finish my rear engine build.

 

[3pgnebs]

Cool little buggy!! Which one of the Cat stores do u work at? I'm in Oxford.

 

[RustyC]

Birmingham Earthmoving.

 

[jp fan]

Great looking buggy I like the rear sway bar mount 8)

 

[xjkrawler]

That is awesome! Nice build! Your boys will love it!

 

[jordan7118]

Awesome! Great job!

 

[BMan]

Nice! I like!


Sent from my iPad , standing on my head and typing with my nose while using Tapatalk

 

[bjo44]

hey nice build ,what tubing did you use and bender to bend it ,also what size welder were you using thanks.

 

[STROKERYOTA]

SWEET BUILD

 

[RustyC]

hey nice build ,what tubing did you use and bender to bend it ,also what size welder were you using thanks.

Believe it or not used 1 7/8 od structural pipe on anything with a bend. It was bent using a harbor freight pipe kinker. Everything that is straight is 1 3/4" hrew.
A chassis can be built using a harbor freight bender but it required a lot of trial and error to get it right, they won't bend very far without denting or kinking the tube.
The welder used was a Lincoln 220v /180 amp mig.

 

[xjtony]

I was looking at the pics and said to myself sure does look like pipe. I'm a believer in using schd 40 structural pipe. It seems to hold up better than hrew as far as denting and minor bending. I hope it works out good for ya. When I build something again I will do the same as my steel supplier doesn't even carry DOM.