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Low Budget rear engine, 37"s

I'm planning a similar build so I got a few questions..

How long are your lower links? How wide is the cab area?
 
zjtrey said:
I'm planning a similar build so I got a few questions..

How long are your lower links? How wide is the cab area?
Click to expand...

Front links are 39" @ bolt centers
Rear links are 40" @ bolt centers

Cab it 48" inside at the floor and 49.5" at the drivers shoulder or "belt line"
I like the small size of the buggy but wish I would have went about 53" or so at the belt line. My left elbow hits the door bar a lot.
 
The TH350 bit the dust the same day as the rear shaft. I just finished rebuilding the transmission to it is ready to go back in with a 2500 stall converter as well.
I have had a Ford 205 that I was planning to put into my Jeep when the Dana 300 broke. Well the Jeep is seeing easier rides with the wife driving so I will be putting the NP205 into the buggy.
Th350, 700r4/NP208 adapter,clocking ring and then a Ford 205. The passenger seat mount will have to be rework a little but it will fit.

Dana 300


NP205


Broken low/reverse roller clutch, race and support.
 
The NP205 hits the passenger seat mount so I shaved it to gain clearance. Cut,heat,weld, cool slow on a BBQ grill.
There is also not a lot of room for the (normally)rear shift rail so I will be shifting the case out the rear.

 
The shift rail exit the speedo housing and the front output cover. I installed the covers and used a 3/4" transfer punch to mark them. Then drilled to 3/4" and counter sunk the inside of them 1/8" for the seals. I am waiting on seals now and will update when they arrive. I made new front and rear shift rails as well. I currently don't on using the interlock pins and will just rely on the detents.

 
Falling a little behind on the updates.
Ford 205 installed with 1350 ujoints at the case. Still need to upgrade the pinions to 1350 and that will happen very soon.
I found out that the while the Superduty 30 spline outers are tough they will break and destroy the lockout with it so.
Upgraded to 35 spline stub shafts and Yukon drive flanges.
The unit bearings need to be bored to accept the 35 spline stubs so, here is where things start to snowball a bit.
I did not want to machine a used unit bearing so I ordered a pair and new rotors. The unit bearing would need to be re-drilled to the standard 8-6.5" pattern.
I changed the rotors and calipers from stock. Details here (http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=38279.0)
Installed a delrin bushing in place of the spindle bearings as well.
The buggy is holding together great at this point. Wheeled 3 days at HPO and the only damage was to the oil pan. Thicker skid needed.
Hopefully I can get some skins on it now and 1350 ujoints at the pinions and go from there.


 
Who bored your bearings for you? How much did it cost? Also what unit bearings did you get? I am possibly doing this soon.


Sent from a undisclosed thinkin spot...
 
I had the machine work done at work. Cost me a dozen Krispy Kreme doughnuts.
I went with the inexpensive ones from Rock Auto. Like $100 each I took a gamble here and time will tell how they hold up.
The abs sensor can be cut and tapped for a grease fitting as well. Hopefully this will help them last.
 
RustyC said:
I had the machine work done at work. Cost me a dozen Krispy Kreme doughnuts.
I went with the inexpensive ones from Rock Auto. Like $100 each I took a gamble here and time will tell how they hold up.
The abs sensor can be cut and tapped for a grease fitting as well. Hopefully this will help them last.
Click to expand...
Have specs of what was bored to what? I may have someone who can do it for me. Also how was diss assembly?


Sent from a undisclosed thinkin spot...
 
If you are running drive slugs, you don't have to machine for the bushings, just shaft clearance.

In fact I would suggest NOT machining got the bushings, because it thins out the threaded area too much and makes it weaker..

Just make a thinner bushing or no bushing. (The shaft never spins inside the hub when you have drive slugs.)




You also do not have to remove the studs. I did mine with a boring head on a mill and there was no interference issues.
 
TBItoy said:
If you are running drive slugs, you don't have to machine for the bushings, just shaft clearance.

In fact I would suggest NOT machining got the bushings, because it thins out the threaded area too much and makes it weaker..

Just make a thinner bushing or no bushing. (The shaft never spins inside the hub when you have drive slugs.)




You also do not have to remove the studs. I did mine with a boring head on a mill and there was no interference issues.
Click to expand...

I agree with that. thumb.gif
 
TBItoy said:
If you are running drive slugs, you don't have to machine for the bushings, just shaft clearance.

In fact I would suggest NOT machining got the bushings, because it thins out the threaded area too much and makes it weaker..

Just make a thinner bushing or no bushing. (The shaft never spins inside the hub when you have drive slugs.)




You also do not have to remove the studs. I did mine with a boring head on a mill and there was no interference issues.
Click to expand...

I like this idea and I have slugs and will stay with slugs. I will look into this. Thanks
 

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