Ls cooling

[cbrjeeper]

Re: Ls cooling

Very nice looking water pump from prw. Billet pulley. Bolted on rear cover.
I did a couple flushes on the ls with no tstat. It ran hotter than norm. It burped a few times. Looking forward to seeing the changes with all the changes I'm making. Talked to prw again today. Tech said.. run 20 an on all ports. sooner or later you will catch up. Call tech of any "high" flow pump company. Shawn of prw. Btw I have called 4 times and have gotten the same guy after asking for tech. Maybe only 3 people work there. Idk. But, I'm gonna ride them out. He assured me that the future is here, and you won't over cool. That's not what this pump does. I will report back after Ron Davis gets me new radiator. Witch btw. Recommend running a high flow pump. Not prw either.
Braaap. Hammer down and break some **** . So you can write some tech.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[wizzo]

Looks nice. Would have been interesting to see what your cooling system would have done with only the radiator change first.

 

[cbrjeeper]

I'm waiting for radiator to go in before pump. Collecting parts rite now.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[wizzo]

Ah!!! OK, Awesome!!!

 

[cbrjeeper]

I still need gears for that sexy spool and shafts.. lol maybe I'll order that today.. hah.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[mrdrinksalil]

Ls cooling

I tore mine down for powder coat but will report back what changes the additional CFM have on temps when it gets back together.

BTW- I think I already posted this but taking the thermostat out on an LS is going to have a negative effect on cooling because coolant can then keep bypassing in the pump, back into the block and not forced out to the radiator. Not like an SBC where all coolant into the block exited the top of the manifold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cbrjeeper]

New dual fan set up came in today. Real nice piece for 369 delivered. Dual spal 11in fans puts out 2700 cfm 22 3/8 x 18 1/8

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[CHASMAN9]

I dig the louvers on the rest of the shroud body, but any chance that heat might get sucked back into through them when the fans are running? Just curious.




ADMINISTRATOR

 

[cbrjeeper]

Maybe in reverse?... lol
I really don't know. I've seen some with and some with out. This one will fit my application so I went with it. Spal told me this set up should significantly lower cooling time in comparison to my single 16 in 2000cfm spal.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[mike2.5]

Moved the temperature sensor to the passenger head today. Passenger head reads 6-12 degrees cooler.

Idle temperatures

181 Driver Head
174 Passenger Head

Getting after it temperatures

229 Driver Head
217 Passenger Head

The fans that came on my Griffin Combo 31x15.5 radiator are 12" low profile SPALs rated 1722CFM total airflow.

Going to upgrade one of the fans for now with a Maradyne M122K that should bring total airflow around 2400CFM and see how that does. The M122K should be a direct bolt in for my current shroud and flow 1548CFM each.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would love to know how this turns out for you as im in the same boat. Not an LS but same scenario with the same radiator.

 

[mrdrinksalil]

Update:

Upgraded the fans that came from Griffin to Maradyne M122K fans. Wheeled for two days runs 175-185 most of the time. Hottest as is got was around 205. Moved the sending unit too so that is with the sender in the passenger head which I've already confirmed is cooler than location in the driver head. Problem solved.

 

[zsavage81]

Anyone got a model number for the 160 deg thermostat they're using on a truck pump? Lingenfelter Performance Engineering Thermostats L310065307?

Also, anyone have experience with the CBM press-in -20an fitting for the water pump? Like this:

Amazon.com: CBM Motorsports- CBM-10622 GM water pump top fitting -20AN short LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 Chevy small: Automotive

Buy CBM Motorsports- CBM-10622 GM water pump top fitting -20AN short LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 Chevy small: Water Pump Fittings & Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I'm in the process of swapping to -20AN hoses. I've got weld on bungs i'm going to weld to the radiator and am looking at a bolt on -20 thermostat housing, so the pump is sorta the only question mark.

In Moab last year I ran hot but never actually over heated and I've been chasing a solution to prevent this ever since. On the road or when i've got even the slightest airflow it stays below 200, but when the outside temp is 90+ and there's no flow it starts creeping or if i start dogging it hard it'll creep. Adding a hood louver brought my temps down a bit, now I'm in the process of moving the trans cooler out from in front of the radiator to a separate cooler with it's own fan and I'm also adding a separate oil cooler that also has it's own fan. Between the coolers and swapping thermostats do yall think it'll solve my problem?

Some info that would probably help:
LS Motor in a TJ
Dual Mishimoto electric fans (1866 cfm each)
Griffin 1-25271-XS 31"x16" 2 row radiator
Currently an AC Delco 185 degree thermostat

 

[redneckengineered]

I don't see going to -20 making any difference. The 160 degree stat will help. Ditching the shitty Griffin radiator and going to a CBR dual pass with Spal fans will make a world of difference. They make a 31x16 size option.

 

[Beerj]

Also, anyone have experience with the CBM press-in -20an fitting for the water pump? Like this:

Amazon.com: CBM Motorsports- CBM-10622 GM water pump top fitting -20AN short LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 Chevy small: Automotive

Buy CBM Motorsports- CBM-10622 GM water pump top fitting -20AN short LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 Chevy small: Water Pump Fittings & Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I used that -20 press in bung. Must not have been perfectly square as it cracked the neck on the pump. Even froze the fitting first. Called CBM to get their thoughts and they sent me a like new pump with a new fitting pressed in for just the cost of the fitting. I held on to the other one and after I learned tig, patched up the crack and kept it as a spare.

 

[zsavage81]

I don't see going to -20 making any difference. The 160 degree stat will help. Ditching the shitty Griffin radiator and going to a CBR dual pass with Spal fans will make a world of difference. They make a 31x16 size option.

the -20 is more about rerouting my cooling lines and getting rid of the bull **** hose clamps that seem to always leak than it is improving water temps. Crappy thing is I bought a CBR and I think it was listed as a 31" wide unit and was actually like 31.5" or something like that and I couldn't make it fit in between the frame rails I'd already built. Seemed easier at the time to switch radiators than cut up all the work i'd just done and I thought griffin was good stuff at the time.

I don't know how much this matters, but the last time out when my water temp was like 220, i got out and touched my hand on my radiator and it was COLD. Not cool, but cold. Fans were screaming since they're just switched on and run all the time, and this struck me as weird. Also, any fear of always running in cold loop with the 160 thermostat?

PS, are you the guy Kerley was saying we're wheeling with at AOP oct 17-20? I'm wondering bc you said something about your wife's buggy and I think he mentioned it was a guy and his wife (if so, you'll see why those hoses need changed).

 

[redneckengineered]

the -20 is more about rerouting my cooling lines and getting rid of the bull **** hose clamps that seem to always leak than it is improving water temps. Crappy thing is I bought a CBR and I think it was listed as a 31" wide unit and was actually like 31.5" or something like that and I couldn't make it fit in between the frame rails I'd already built. Seemed easier at the time to switch radiators than cut up all the work i'd just done and I thought griffin was good stuff at the time.

I don't know how much this matters, but the last time out when my water temp was like 220, i got out and touched my hand on my radiator and it was COLD. Not cool, but cold. Fans were screaming since they're just switched on and run all the time, and this struck me as weird. Also, any fear of always running in cold loop with the 160 thermostat?

PS, are you the guy Kerley was saying we're wheeling with at AOP oct 17-20? I'm wondering bc you said something about your wife's buggy and I think he mentioned it was a guy and his wife (if so, you'll see why those hoses need changed).

Yep that's me. I was hoping to meet you guys and give you the grand AOP tour. But it's looking less like I'm going to make it. My buggy is not quite ready, I was hoping my wife's would be but it's not looking good there either. We built her a new rear 14 bolt and while it is coming together we still have to get it trussed and bracketed up and thrown under there. Ordering shafts for it this week but those are two weeks out.

It is strange that your radiator would be cold. You can feel mine heat and cool as the thermostat opens/closes. And I've never had the first issue with engine tuning running a 160 and I don't know of anyone else that has either. I've preached the 160 to all my friends so we all run that temp now.

 

[zsavage81]

Yep that's me. I was hoping to meet you guys and give you the grand AOP tour. But it's looking less like I'm going to make it. My buggy is not quite ready, I was hoping my wife's would be but it's not looking good there either. We built her a new rear 14 bolt and while it is coming together we still have to get it trussed and bracketed up and thrown under there. Ordering shafts for it this week but those are two weeks out.

It is strange that your radiator would be cold. You can feel mine heat and cool as the thermostat opens/closes. And I've never had the first issue with engine tuning running a 160 and I don't know of anyone else that has either. I've preached the 160 to all my friends so we all run that temp now.

Which 160 thermostat are you running? Is it the Lingenfelter i listed above? You got a truck pump?

 

[Jduck]

If the radiator is cold like that your water isn't circulating. Either an air pocket or the water is circulating back through the block and not going to the radiator.

 

[The-Boss]

If the radiator is cold like that your water isn't circulating. Either an air pocket or the water is circulating back through the block and not going to the radiator.

Not uncommon with a rear radiator. Happened to my buddy this past weekend. He had a air pocket due to being a little low. Quick fix.

 

[Nughuffer]

I went from a 180ish stock stat to an LS2 160F thermostat hoping to help cool my shitbox down some. My avg operating temps dropped about 10F at best. I saw no noticeable improvement during a beatdown session. 215-220F is common and I've seen 230F. I'm running an LS1 vette water pump, 31" 2-row rear-mounted radiator w/ dual 16" PCM controlled fans. I saw more improvement by having my fans come on earlier for longer and running 75% water, 25% green. I highly recommend using a vac filler tool to fill the system. **** makes life much easier w/an LS & rear-mounted radiator.