Never ending Samurai build...

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

Stuntman Autoworks said:
Yes I know that. That's why I said if they were equal length then the pinion and caster would stay the same, but I'm longer on top so mine doesnt.

Separation at the frame/chassis will have more effect on pinion angle change than link length in our cases. If we were trying to build something with 40" lowers and 20" uppers then we'd really be screwed.

Stuntman Autoworks said:
I think your overlooking that the driveshaft angles are already going to be greater as the axle droops but if your pinion rotates down also then your driveshaft angles at both ends won't be changing at the same rate. The axle end will get more angle faster than the tcase end.

I get that, but this would only be a big deal if I planned to be at full droop a lot. Like I said earlier...I don't want to use the suck down as a band aid, but when I'm dropping off a ledge or getting high centered then I wouldn't have an issue sucking it in if it became necessary. I just don't want to ride around with it sucked down all the time because its constantly unloading.

Rokcrler · Jul 25, 2016

Re: Re: Never ending Samurai build...

clemsonjeep said:
Did you run the calc on that? Just curious of lengths and mounting points...the calc is just an easy way to show what's going on.

Graph paper, compass, ruler.
This stop I works awesome. It had a LP 3rd during build, only after the HP was installed did the yoke hit.
Also running a 2pc shaft due to auto trans

sleepsontoilet · Jul 25, 2016

My uppers are shorter, way shorter. It shouldn't work, but it flat out crawls everything you have the balls to point it at. I copied onetoncrawler to a T with every measurement he had. I wouldn't change a thing, not even the air shocks. I don't unload any more than the coilover or ORI rigs I wheel with. They are full of oil with about 150# in them and plenty stable with no sway bar. I also only run 5" of shaft showing. Maybe I got lucky, but I'm running the numbers I copied from onetoncrawler who copied them from a couple other builds. I've had it up to 75mph and it feels great.

Front uppers 21.25"
Front lowers 29.5"
Rear uppers 37.5"
Rear lowers 40"
Wheelbase is 109"
Belly is 17.25"
4" of shaft showing on 14" 2.0 fox air shocks

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

I like it...and I liked onetoncrawlers setup when he built it.

Thanks for posting!

sleepsontoilet · Jul 25, 2016

clemsonjeep said:
I like it...and I liked onetoncrawlers setup when he built it.

Thanks for posting!

His numbers

onetoncrawler said:
Front uppers 21.25"
Lowers 29.5"

clemsonjeep · Jul 26, 2016

What kind of separation numbers are you running at chassis and axle?

karatejosh · Jul 26, 2016

Re:

Be really careful with your ideas here mine was way off and it has been such a headake to fix after the fact just mine was good but it its so light when 2 people get in it it drops about 2 inches wich messes everything up

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

sleepsontoilet · Jul 28, 2016

clemsonjeep said:
What kind of separation numbers are you running at chassis and axle?

4.5" frame
8" axle

clemsonjeep · Jul 28, 2016

sleepsontoilet said:
4.5" frame
8" axle

That's almost exactly what I'm aiming for. Hoping to wrap it up this weekend.

clemsonjeep · Jul 31, 2016

Its linked...just gotta brace everything up and finish welding.

clemsonjeep · Jul 31, 2016

I'm either gonna clearance the oil pan or move the uppers out another 1/8" or so at the axle

Rokcrler · Jul 31, 2016

Re:

Move the uppers out.
Figure out the driveshaft before you burn everything in.
Pass stuffed driver extended to check flange to link clearance

clemsonjeep · Jul 31, 2016

Good to go on driveshaft clearance...

Rokcrler · Jul 31, 2016

As long as the driverside is fully maxed out you should be ok with that... :dblthumb:

clemsonjeep · Jul 31, 2016

Yeah it wouldn't max out on its own but I went over there and pushed down til the shock stopped...all good still.

I decided to move the upper frame mounts out 7/8" each side since there were easier to deal with AND I gained more triangulation.

Knocked out the rest of those mounts while I was at it.

sleepsontoilet · Aug 1, 2016

Looks good to me

easleycrawler · Aug 2, 2016

Looks like your liking your new welder.

clemsonjeep · Aug 2, 2016

easleycrawler said:
Looks like your liking your new welder.

Loving it...but still dialing in the settings. I've finally learned why it would be nice to have LCD readouts for wire speed and voltage. If you switched welders you would be able to get back on track a lot quicker...of course no two would be perfectly identical, but it'd be a lot closer than the infinitely adjustable dials.