Never ending Samurai build...

clemsonjeep · Jun 24, 2016

This single CV is a big step up...especially with the turbo. Ive driven it a few times with the turbo disconnected and it still feels stronger than the stock TBI setup.

The individual carbs are great...biggest improvement is getting rid of the stock intake manifold which has always been a huge limiter for the 1.3 & 1.6 motors.

My motor was a CL find. No idea how many miles.

jta · Jun 25, 2016

Why stick with the carbs? I have a pair of Weber side drafts on my tin tip. It was a nice improvement over the stock 1.3 carb but it think I'd rather have efi.

clemsonjeep · Jun 25, 2016

The TBI wasn't tunable. I'm not interested in playing with or investing in megasquirt style systems either.

clemsonjeep · Jun 25, 2016

Got to get it out on some trails today. Overall it worked really well, but I've got an issue with flooding on very steep inclines at low throttle. I'm thinking this is a float adjustment issue, but won't really know until I take it out again. I didn't want to take it apart while I was on the trail today...too much fun. Power is better, responsiveness is better, just flooding.

Ryan on 3D 6-25-16

clemsonjeep · Jul 23, 2016

Well I've put it off long enough and I probably would have kept putting it off, but I sold my hydro assist a few weeks ago and I refuse to install the full hydro with the leafs...so here we go.

Feel free to comment on my setup. What I'm shooting for is a stable rock crawler...no go fast (it won't go fast...ha) and it doesn't drive on the street. With that in mind my target AD was close to or above 100%. I really want the front to stay in place...not lift a lot on climbs. I'll be running 14" air shocks just like on the rear. I will have the winch set up for a suck down, but I do not want to use it as a constant band aid. I also didn't want to go too high with the AD to keep the front end from being too stiff as it meets ledges and such under power. Here's what I came up with based on measurements...

Screen%20Shot%202016-07-23%20at%2011.46.24%20PM_zpslqlarpju.png

Stuntman Autoworks · Jul 24, 2016

Uppers are too short. That's going to be alot of pinion angle change in the wrong directon as it droops.

clemsonjeep · Jul 24, 2016

Stuntman Autoworks said:
Uppers are too short. That's going to be alot of pinion angle change in the wrong directon as it droops.

You make the second person to say that. I ran the numbers through the travel calc and it said at full droop it would have 7* change in pinion angle.

I'll take another look at it and see about making lowers shorter and see what that does.

TBItoy · Jul 25, 2016

Re:

Your uppers are triangulated enough that you're not going to get massive pinion angle change when flexing. If you were jumping and fully drooping out the front suspension I'd be concerned. The suck down winch will keep it from dropping when climbing.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jul 25, 2016

clemsonjeep said:
You make the second person to say that. I ran the numbers through the travel calc and it said at full droop it would have 7* change in pinion angle.

I'll take another look at it and see about making lowers shorter and see what that does.

7 degrees is alot of change especially when you take in account that the angles on your u joints will already be getting greater because the axle is drooping, then add the 7 degrees from the link geometry and it could make a big difference.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jul 25, 2016

Re:

TBItoy said:
Your uppers are triangulated enough that you're not going to get massive pinion angle change when flexing. If you were jumping and fully drooping out the front suspension I'd be concerned. The suck down winch will keep it from dropping when climbing.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you but just because they are triangulated won't keep the pinion from changing. Triangulated or not shorter uppers=pinion rotating down.

He also doesn't want to use the suck down at all times, probably like me he wants it as an option but not a necessity at all times.

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

Ok so here's the deal. Sure...if I have the front shocks set up with 5" of shaft showing I'll have 9" of droop. With 9" droop the pinion angle will change -6* or a little more. Since I'm using a high pinion diff my front driveshaft is damn near level at ride heigh...so I'm not too worried about the change. What I do like about keeping the numbers close to what I have above is that the AD and most everything else remains very stable.

Obviously there aren't any hard and fast numbers you can rely on, but I've always understood that in the front the general rule of thumb for the uppers was for them to be approx. 70% of the lowers in order to maintain consistent caster and such. I took some more accurate measurements this morning since I have a lower link mount tacked to the frame and both axle lower mounts tacked to the axle. I also have a better idea what I'm doing for the upper link frame mounts. So with the numbers I have now it looks like my uppers will actually be approx. 82% of the lowers. AD has changed to 88% which should

Nick...what's your opinion on front AD numbers for a crawler like mine?

Ride Height

Screen%20Shot%202016-07-25%20at%209.28.33%20AM_zpstbfwuzlr.png

Full Droop

Screen%20Shot%202016-07-25%20at%209.28.07%20AM_zpshpkaxgm4.png

Bump

Screen%20Shot%202016-07-25%20at%209.28.50%20AM_zpsopy2dvb1.png

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

I'm liking that it increases at full droop...should encourage it to settle out if that's ever an issue. This thing should NEVER be at full droop...if it is I think I took a wrong turn off an access road for the quick way down the mountain...and then I've got other issues.

Rokcrler · Jul 25, 2016

Re:

watch out for driveshaft contact at the HP yoke to the upper link.

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

Rokcrler said:
watch out for driveshaft contact at the HP yoke to the upper link.

Thanks...will do

Rokcrler · Jul 25, 2016

This hits at full pass stuff full driver drop. Adding air bumps before coil bind

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

Did you run the calc on that? Just curious of lengths and mounting points...the calc is just an easy way to show what's going on.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jul 25, 2016

Idk where you got the 70% of length rule but for as long of a travel as our suspensions have I wouldn't want the uppers to be any less than equal length with the lowers if possible. That way the pinion angle and caster all stays the same through travel. Since I use a double cardan front shaft I actually want my pinion to continue pointing to the tcase so my uppers are a little longer to keep the difference in pinion angles to a minimum through the travel.

clemsonjeep · Jul 25, 2016

Stuntman Autoworks said:
Idk where you got the 70% of length rule but for as long of a travel as our suspensions have I wouldn't want the uppers to be any less than equal length with the lowers if possible. That way the pinion angle and caster all stays the same through travel. Since I use a double cardan front shaft I actually want my pinion to continue pointing to the tcase so my uppers are a little longer to keep the difference in pinion angles to a minimum through the travel.

If the pinion continues to point at the tcase...that would mean your caster is changing...

I'm running a non CV front driveshaft.

As Rokcrler pointed out...contact between driveshaft and upper link is going to be a concern with the high pinion diff. With the pinion rotating down...caster staying close to the same...this should help keep the driveshaft out of the link too.

I'm liking what Rokcrler did with the upper link mount at the frame too...definitely easier than what I was planning to do to get them mounted outside the frame rail.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jul 25, 2016

Also another thing to consider is your running air shocks and they like to unload more than coils so you may want more front anti squat, (pro dive) as the axle droops, to help the suspension try to pull the body back to ride height when on a hill. I know you've already said that but it may be worth looking into more than you were thinking of or maybe just another thought to add while your looking at everything.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jul 25, 2016

clemsonjeep said:
If the pinion continues to point at the tcase...that would mean your caster is changing...

Yes I know that. That's why I said if they were equal length then the pinion and caster would stay the same, but I'm longer on top so mine doesnt.

I think your overlooking that the driveshaft angles are already going to be greater as the axle droops but if your pinion rotates down also then your driveshaft angles at both ends won't be changing at the same rate. The axle end will get more angle faster than the tcase end.