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Never ending Samurai build...

They come from Trackers...any of the pre 16v Trackers with an auto had a 3spd auto that is not computer controlled. The 2wd auto is slightly longer than the 4wd so your intermediate shaft gets really short...but shouldnt be an issue with an off road only rig. I chose to go with the 4wd auto and use the Trail Tough adapter...which is just a press in bushing that also holds a seal. You just need to cut up the stock intermediate shaft and shorten it a little.
 
Didnt wanna stop mid day to update...just walked back in the house. I think i made some good progress today. The 1.6 wiring harness is just about finished up and i took the plunge and decided to hack off the top of my cage and get started on it. I really needed to get on it because i need to get the dash started so i can move onto that portion of the wiring process.

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Thanks...I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with the "old" tubing. There is a sub frame made out of 1.5" tubing that the seats are mounted to. This frame was tied into the "old" a-pillar that goes through the floorboard down to the frame. The rear of the sub frame has a support that goes up to the b-hoop behind and to the sides of the seats. You can see what I'm talking about here in these photos...

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At this point I'm thinking I might just leave it as is and cut and cap off the old a-pillar tube as low as possible. After I get the dash and everything finished up and actually get it out to test things out I believe I might end up wanting to move the seats up and forward just a smidge to gain better visibility over the hood. Just from sitting in it yesterday I can already see that it's going to be better than looking over the stock dash and the dash bar that I had in it.

The rear tube work had me scratching my head a little also...but since I just put it in there I decided to leave it as is with the "fender flare" type tube. This might get changed to where there is only one tube going all the way around.

Any suggestions?
 
I say cap the old A Pillar down low and roll out. You may end up wanting to scoot the seat forward like you're talking about but its a big difference in visibility once you rip that dash out of there. That and you're already going to have a little more leg room with that A-pillar moved outside the cab. Keep building so I can steal ideas for whenever I start putting my junk together. :drinkers: laughing1
 
How do you top off a great vacation to the beach...find a part you need at the local (to the beach) u pull it yard! Id been looking for one of these intake boxes from an early model civic for a few weeks here at home with no luck so it was great to stumble onto one just by chance.

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Spent a little time afterwards looking at ideas for the dash area...

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IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!! Got in the shop at 6am this morning and just came in the house...im beat! Ran new fuel lines, installed fuel filter, installed trans shifter temporarily, installed gauges temporarily, installed master cut off and push button start temporarily, rechecked wiring harness and added some good grounds to the battery/motor/firewall for good measure and attempted to crank it up. Spent several hours tracking down and sorting out what ended up being a timing issue. The dizzy was out of place by two teeth...uggghhh what a pita.

Tomorrow i will be doing a compression test...Myron is curious about it and i wouldnt mind knowing either. Not to mention id like to check my boat motor while im at it. Then i need to mount the trans cooler and run its lines. You shoulda seen the guys face at advance when i askes for 17 feet of oil cooler line...lol. Then i need to wrap up the trans mount and shorten up the intermediate shaft. Looks like i also need to flex the front suspension to check clearance between the front driveshaft and the trans oil pan befor s i fill it with fluid.

Then i get to terrorize the neighborhood!!!
 
Only other issue that came up was that my fuel cell is building pressure from the return line. If the cap is on the cell and i use my air blower on the compressor it will build pressure...and slowly leak out of my vent line and filter...i can hear a slight hiss. If i do the same thing with the fuel cell cap removed it doesnt have a problem.

The fuel cell has a tip over valve which runs to some 1/4 inch rubber line which makes a full loop around the perimeter of the cell to one of those small k&n style filters. The full loop was used as a backup to the tip over valve to keep fuel from spilling during a rollover. Imwondering if ive gotten some fuel or some other trash in it and thats clogging up the vent...

Gonna apply air pressure to the filter end in the morning and see what that does. Any other ideas?
 
Thanks...it was a pain to make it happen...but it's worked out well so far. Still curious to get it on the trails with the factory dash gone and the old dash bar as well. I think I might end up wanting to move the seats up and forward and hair to gain better visibility...we'll see.
 
clemsonjeep said:
It's the E2000 pump that just about everyone runs on these. If I'm not mistaken they run up to 90psi...
Click to expand...

90 psi seems high. What is the spec for the engine. Usually you want a pump close to that spec. +- 5 psi
 

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