B.DRAKE
Well-Known Member
BlackYJ said:
That's right Ol buddy I'm just tryin to get on Blevins level although it'll never happen lol
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That's right Ol buddy I'm just tryin to get on Blevins level although it'll never happen lol
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BlackYJ
Well-Known Member
Dont get me started on Blevins. I heard that the government called him the last time they needed a bail out! 
pushrod-racing
Well-Known Member
NTIDWELL said:
My shops 40x60x16 and only has the thin double bubble stuff in it. Just bought the place in August. I recently had a spray foam place come out and quote doing my shop and I guess I should have done some research. First I didn't know there where options and also I had no clue how expensive it is.
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
pushrod-racing said:
How much did they quote you?
The bubble wrap **** is falling out of the ceiling of mine from UV exposure (welding), and I'm gonna have to do something because I no longer have a vapor barrier and it's starting to condensate on the inside and drip.
I'll probably end up pulling the damn roof off and rolling out the vinyl backed fiberglass.
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
NTIDWELL said:
holy ****.
AllGoNoShow
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Messages
- 551
I closed cell sprayed my 40x80 quonset building. 2'' on sides with 3'' towards the top. It cost me 15K. Now I need to install a door that actually seals up and is insulated.
Sawzall
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2011
- Messages
- 658
Watch for mold. When I had my 40x80 with R10 roll insulation and insulated doors built, mold started shortly after. I did not have a problem on my old 40x60 with R3 roll insulation. I added 2 dehumidifiers to eliminate the problem. The new one is much easier to heat though.AllGoNoShow said:
Visit Matt's home build thread.NTIDWELL said:
Be VERY cautious about open cell foam on a metal roof along with finishing the inside with drywall or walls of any kind.
All metal roofs leak. No matter what. Standing seam, exposed fastener, hidden fastener.
The leaks come in different forms. Exposed fasteners that are on our metal shops literally leak after about 5-8 years or less. The rubber washers get too compressed during install and our buildings flex with heat and cold so the panels are always moving. Straight up leaks. Guaranteed
Then no matter what roof design metal condensates on the back side. 100% guaranteed.
Open cell foam is a sponge. Moisture of any kind is it's enemy.
Closed cell is what you need. Nothing else. I promise you man. Seriously look into it. Research the product like crazy before you drop 8k
pushrod-racing
Well-Known Member
TBItoy said:
9200.00 and I have to rip all the double bubble out
I think spray foam is super cool. It's a pretty stinkin amazing product. I sprayed about 4,000 sqft of open cell in my home build last week. Exterior walls and 100% of rooflines.
The only reason I chime in so hard on the subject is I have never built a home or shop before this year. So before I started and during the build of both I'm doing everything I can to educate myself on building practice and product knowledge.
I have been blown away to say the least with how little people know about what they are actually doing. As far as why they are doing it.
I sit down and get a bid from a white guy typically. Then he almost never shows up on site. It's a group of non English speaking guys that are purely trained to do a task. Not really knowing the effects of that task.
The same thing happens with some of my other subs. HVAC for example, my guy is awesome. We talked through the entire design for a couple months before.
Day of the install, 4 southern guys show up that he comments he doesn't know. Chuckles and they get busy. The guys move 100mph. When finished I get to see how hard they made it for my insulation guys. Duct work sucked up against west facing roof lines. The highest heat load in the house. When I ask my HVAC guy, he says "yeah I didn't understand why they did that either, it'll be fine man, promise"
I had to cut almost all of the ductwork down so when my insulation came in it didn't expand and restrict some of my supply ducts.
I know I'm rambling. Lol
Anyway, I think spray foam is an awesome product. Yes I am for it. You just have to be very careful about what you use and where you use it. The small details matter. I have learned that even the guys spraying it and designing HVAC around it really don't understand the effects of it.
It's quick and easy. Plain and simple
The only reason I chime in so hard on the subject is I have never built a home or shop before this year. So before I started and during the build of both I'm doing everything I can to educate myself on building practice and product knowledge.
I have been blown away to say the least with how little people know about what they are actually doing. As far as why they are doing it.
I sit down and get a bid from a white guy typically. Then he almost never shows up on site. It's a group of non English speaking guys that are purely trained to do a task. Not really knowing the effects of that task.
The same thing happens with some of my other subs. HVAC for example, my guy is awesome. We talked through the entire design for a couple months before.
Day of the install, 4 southern guys show up that he comments he doesn't know. Chuckles and they get busy. The guys move 100mph. When finished I get to see how hard they made it for my insulation guys. Duct work sucked up against west facing roof lines. The highest heat load in the house. When I ask my HVAC guy, he says "yeah I didn't understand why they did that either, it'll be fine man, promise"
I had to cut almost all of the ductwork down so when my insulation came in it didn't expand and restrict some of my supply ducts.
I know I'm rambling. Lol
Anyway, I think spray foam is an awesome product. Yes I am for it. You just have to be very careful about what you use and where you use it. The small details matter. I have learned that even the guys spraying it and designing HVAC around it really don't understand the effects of it.
It's quick and easy. Plain and simple
NTIDWELL
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2011
- Messages
- 629
cbrjeeper said:
Haha easiest way to set trusses
Building will be 40x80x16 with a 14x60 lean to shop will be 40x60 leaving 20x40 roof only
2-14x14 doors and 3-14x12 with 2-entry doors
Trusses we went 4' oc for the amount of snow and ice we get here
grcthird
Birmingham, AL
Update on the lights I put in the shop, still in love with them. Got the power bill from the first full month of using them, went from $300-350 to $153. They will pay for themselves sooner than expected.
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grcthird
Birmingham, AL
LightBnDr said:
https://www.amazon.com/Adiding-Warehouse-Lighting-equivalent-Lumileds/dp/B01NAHCNRP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539971094&sr=8-1&keywords=ADIDING
Went back and looked at some previous bills, kwh literally cut in half.
![GZWE9765[1].JPG](http://attachments.www.hardlinecrawlers.com/xfmg/thumbnail/12/12588-a7f77f6040fa8268bb49b523ea33e76b.jpg?1625929718)
